You want to pull the wheels off one at a time, grease the shaft of the axle and put the wheel back on. Pay close attention when you remove each wheel because there might be a key on the axle that keeps the wheel engaged (easily lost if not paying attention). Check your parts diagram in your owner's manual first. Also look for any grease fittings that might be on the housing when you pull off each wheel (if present, the fitting(s) are much easier to grease with the wheel removed).
There's often a Bushing in the side of the Frame that prevents the Axle from cutting into the Frame. The Bushing is usually hexagonal so that it won't (shouldn't) rotate with the Axle, and a little grease placed in it will ensure that the Axle will not stick to it.
If the Bushing (which may be a hard plastic) starts showing signs of wear and doesn't fit snugly in the hexagonal receptacle in the Frame, then it should be replaced BEFORE any damage is done.
If you see a little the on the axle, sand it off then wipe it off, then grease. I suggest only synthetic! Preferably chassis grease, same you would use for your auger's zerk fittings.
The purpose of the grease is to limit the effects of washout causing rusting of the interface between wheel and axle. This corrosion will make the wheel difficult to remove. You must use waterproof grease, which is commonly available as Marine grease.
I spent an hour yesterday changing oil, greasing\lubing every metal and moving part possible, and wiping down the rest. I like to do a thorough job especially before storing for the summer.
Did you take off the bottom plate? Is there a chain? You put one drop of synthetic oil per link on the roller as you are turning the wheel then wipe off. You are not oiling the chain but the inside of the roller, the space between the roller and the rivet pin.
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