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Engine oil drain bolt size?

12K views 21 replies 8 participants last post by  Lunta 
#1 ·
Hello everyone,

I purchased a YT624 last week, and I'm thinking about installing a Drainzit engine oil drain hose on it. However I'm having difficulty finding information on the size of the bolt and threads?

Has anyone installed a Drainzit on their Yamaha? Any idea on the size of the engine oil drain bolt?

Thanks for any info.

PS. Im really looking forward to trying my new machine out, my previous machine was a Honda HS622, so the 624 is quite the upgrade!
 
#3 ·
Hey Kiss4aFrog,

Thanks for the advice.... I've already tried a Yamaha dealer and Drainzit.... neither were very helpful finding the bolt size.

I was able to get the part number for the bolt from the dealer, (95022-10016, bolt, flange), however I haven't tried searching it yet.

Cheers
 
#7 · (Edited)
Personaly, if I found out a shop was sucking out the oil instead of draining it properly (assuming there is a drain bolt/hole on the engine), I think I would avoid them. How the heck can they 'suck out' all of the foreign material that settles to the bottom of the crank case? Doesn't seem likely.

Having said that, my weed wacker uses the oil fill hole as both fill and drain.... wouldn't want to do that with a 250lb tracked snow blower though! Imagine having to tip it over every time?!? Anyway not an issue on the YT624, as it does have a drain bolt/hole.

It's a good idea to warm up the engine before draining the oil, guess a Drainzit should help with making things that much easier. I have one on order, and will confirm it's fitment when I get a chance to install it.

Thanks for the comments.
 
#8 ·
i can understand your feeling of tilting over a snow blower, impossible, that's why they have drain plugs, tool less fittings or extended drains.

my tilt it over is a kawasaki on on cub cadet, there the shop manual even states tilt over to drain,or suction out, just like many lower priced store lawn mowers. this is more a epa thing to help waste oil go where it cleanly belongs and recycled!! the days of drain plugs are going BY-BY!! get used to it.

as to the suction way, if you look at where a drain plug sits on a lot of machines,it is above the oil pans lowest spot. again i take my lt1050's cubs 25 hp twin kohler into account, there is always about a half quart left when i refill it, after using the tool less drain, the drain is above the lowest part of the pan, still makes one jack one side of the machine up to use it , yet if i suction it out when the engine has been prerun to heat the oil to about 100 degs, the suction tube is all the way down into the pan bottom and i refill with the 2 qt spec.

oil change wise take a IO or full inboard in a boat, How do the marine techs change the oil?? SUCTION!! it's the only way save some brands that have a hose in the pan that pulls out of the hulls drain when the boat is out of the water, again there is oil left over in the pan, suction again the tube reaches all the way down into the pan, what ever is down there comes out, not left behind some baffle in a cast pan like on many small engines today,

when the cat service center comes in to service the twin cat c15 acrerts in my 48 foot ocean ss boat. they suction out the 36 qts in each motor ,same with the marina that services my 23 searay's 454 IO, while in the water, suction!

your 4 stroke weedwacker. yes i know they have that red screw in plug that serves both drain and fill, since the machine is so small the only way possible . what else can be done,pickup the tool tilt on end drain out the 6 or 8 ounces ,refill

again i was a auto ase gold master tech, what we did 30.40 and 50 years ago ,is no longer is correct,
 
#10 ·
Such a disposable society these businesses are creating, No matter what they do or design into any engine, the oil additives WILL eventually break down and the oil will not do the job as intended. Yes the designs do help the oil to last much longer but to NEVER change it. Well like the snow blowers that are 30+ yrs old and still running strong. These new engines won't ever get to be that old and usable on the machines we can buy today in 30 yrs from now.
 
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#13 ·
i made a vac pump out of a old refrig pump. don't let it fall over so the lube oil stays in it. make up adapters to use the larger suction side pipe to whatever source you need vac to, i use it all the time to help change engine oil on SE"s even to pull vac on a auto a/c system
 
#19 ·
I pulled the drain plug today.
The threads are M10 x 1.25.
F124N is the valve with these threads. There is not enough room for the valve to clear the frame however for installation so I backed off the motor mount bolts (2 on each side) and then could easily lift/tilt the motor so I should be able to install the valve like this. I think that once it’s installed it should not have any clearance items.
I ordered the valve and Amazon delivery date said Nov 4-17th.
I will update once I get it.
 
#20 ·
UPDATE:

Valve came in and it worked!

Fumoto F124N M10-1.25

I'm not sure if it was nessarary but I already had the 4 engine mount bolts(12mm) backed off so this allowed me to tilt the motor up a bit and had lots of room to screw the valve in. Then used a 14mm deep socket to tighten the valve. Took less than a minute. Will be really nice to have this on future oil changes.



This picture shows the motor tilted up:


And installed:
 
#22 ·
Am considering removing the drainzit at the next oil change.
The problem is that the drainzit hose can rub on the left wall of snow when clearing paths. This limits the directions I can work in, meaning I try to run with existing snow banks on the right side of the machine, which adds a bit more thinking to blowing routes.

Something to think about for anyone considering a drainzit on a YT660.
 
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