Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums - Reply to Topic
Thread: Toro 724 reverse disc movement ? Reply to Thread
Title:
Message:
Trackback:
Send Trackbacks to (Separate multiple URLs with spaces) :
Post Icons
You may choose an icon for your message from the following list:
 

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










  Additional Options
Miscellaneous Options

  Topic Review (Newest First)
06-15-2014 02:26 PM
rapscallion Thanks to you both for the responses/suggestions.

@Grunt. The gas cap is probably fine as it ran continuously before the rebuild. Although rough and sputtering at less than full speed. This, the reason for the rebuild.
That vent hole shoul be clear as I gave the carb a good soaking in cleaner and blew out with compressed air. I'll give it another look though.

Great link, I wondered what that little oblong dimple in the bottom of the float bowl was for.

@db9938. The fuel line is fine, one of the first things I checked when it died after 2 min. I did find some cracks in the primer hose, right before it attaches to the carb and I cut that off. The fact that the run time increased from 2 to 10 min, after a minor float adjustment, makes me tend to agree with you that's where the problem lies.
06-14-2014 11:39 PM
db9938 I'd also make sure that the fuel line is not kinked.

For it to run, as well as it does, then suddenly die off from what appears to be a fuel starvation scenario, I would pursue it from the tank to the float needle. Your carb appears to be working as it should, as well as the linkage.
06-14-2014 11:02 PM
Grunt Try loosening the gas cap. Could be a restricted vent in the cap. There is also an atmospheric vent hole in the carb near the low speed mixture screw that has to be clear. Photo #15 in link below.

Disassembly, Cleaning and Repair of Tecumseh Series 1 Carb 632107
06-14-2014 06:23 PM
rapscallion
Quote:
Originally Posted by motorhead64 View Post
Hi rapscallion,
I have a 38050 as well. The cure for the rough low idle is a carb clean and rebuild. Most likely your idle circuit is fouled a bit behind the jet screw. Also the bowl nut behind the high speed jet has very small holes between its threads that can become clogged. A good cleaning and replacement of your bowl gasket, float needle and seat should make her purr. MH
Hi again MH. Thanks MH for your suggestion and link to the rebuild kit.

I got the kit from ebay and finally got around to doing the rebuild, following several YouTube vids which were very good, this one especially :

It's all back together now and runs smoothly. However, initially it would only run for about 2 mins, then stall. It would start right back up and then do the same thing again. (using 3 week old gas.)

I've never touched the carb before so the following came this way from the factory, I believe. I did buy the blower used in '85.

1 .When I removed the carb from the engine, the power adjusting screw was a full 3 turns out. The manual specifies 1 full turn as an initial point. so, that's a big difference.

2. The float adjustment is supposed to be 11/64" from the bowl lip and I would guess mine was closer to 7/64". (measured opposite side from the pivot, no gasket installed) Smooth side of a drill bit is a great gauge. I adjusted it to the 11/64 spec.

Ok, so I removed it again and tightened up the float clearance a bit. Plus I backed out the power screw to about 2 1/2 turns. Now it runs for about 10 min and then stalls again. So, I think I'm on the right track

Also, I didn't replace the carb gasket, the one behind the 2 Phillips head mounting bolts. I had to use a razor to separate it from the carb, and it remained on the engine.
I don't know if that's allowing air to get in, but running it richer should have compensated for that. If I take it off again, I'll use Permatex gasket sealer.

Before I take it off the engine again, any comments or suggestions would be welcomed.
Brief video below. After the first few seconds, you can jump to about the 2 min point and you'll get the idea..

05-02-2014 11:14 PM
Grunt
Quote:
Originally Posted by POWERSHIFT93 View Post
how does that valve adjustment work on those tecumsapart engines any way??? I have never messed around with those engines my self.
If after removing the breather and checking the valve clearance, which is usually between .004 and .008 thousandths of an inch. The valve, usually the exhaust valve, are removed from the engine and the valve stem filed or ground to achieve the correct clearance for that particular engine. Flat head engines loose clearance as the valve seat and\or valve face wear. Overhead valve engines are the opposite, they normally require the clearance to be decreased.
I recently worked on a Tecumseh HSSK50 on an MTD snow blower that had 40 psi compression. After doing a leak down test, I found the exhaust valve was not closing all the way. The valve was removed and required .007 ground off the stem to achieve the .005 clearance required. the valve was held open .002 because of valve seat wear.
05-02-2014 05:23 PM
Kiss4aFrog The points are a combination of different parts and usually come as an assembly or a kit.
.
05-02-2014 04:58 PM
POWERSHIFT93
Quote:
Originally Posted by Grunt View Post
I would remove the oil breather and check the valves for correct clearance while you have the carb off. No clearance will affect how it runs and will get worse after the engine reaches operating temperature. The motor is 30+ years old and is probably due for a valve adjustment anyway.
how does that valve adjustment work on those tecumsapart engines any way??? I have never messed around with those engines my self.
05-02-2014 04:51 PM
rapscallion Good tip Grunt, will do. Thanks!
05-02-2014 04:12 PM
Grunt I would remove the oil breather and check the valves for correct clearance while you have the carb off. No clearance will affect how it runs and will get worse after the engine reaches operating temperature. The motor is 30+ years old and is probably due for a valve adjustment anyway.
05-02-2014 01:07 PM
rapscallion Thanks for the clarification. I think I'll leave that adjustment, if necessary, until the end after I've changed the plug, rebuilt the carb and get fresh gas.
This thread has more than 10 replies. Click here to review the whole thread.

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome