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Ariens Point Of No Return

12K views 44 replies 20 participants last post by  Kielbasa 
#1 ·
I'm in the process of a rest mod of my 1974 924series 8\32. After the teardown,Im very pleased with the condition of this unit. No major surprises yet. With the help of the forum members Im pretty confident about this rebuild. Here is a list of some of my plans. Please anyone feel free to chime in on any tips,tricks,advice, good vendors, etc. I know off hand i will need a reputable vendor for a piston and ring kit. The engine is also leaking oil from somewhere. So a gasket kit as well. The only vendor I've found so far is on eBay and he seems pricey at 100 for piston and rings.

Long chute mod
Possible plastic inside chute depending on advice
From worm to star drive chute
Relocation of chute control RH side
Adding a stator for amp output
Carlisle Xtrac
Impeller kit
Bearings
Auger gear inspection
Full cosmetic overhaul as well

Thanks and stay tuned guys. Ill need the help and expertise.
 
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#2 ·
#5 · (Edited by Moderator)
It'll be the best thing you ever did, and the machine will run forever afterwards.

what kissfrog said, the piston/ring price is high at $100. you can get it for about $70 shipped. looks like $35 plus $25 shipping. I'd ask the guy to reduce the shipping. those are small, light parts, can ship USPS for about $10

hm80 tecumseh piston ring | eBay

 
#9 ·
I didn't get much done yesterday. I spent my free time under the hood of a Chrysler.
Today I was a little better with time management. I the star chute star drive kit I got from Jackmels. I also relocated the chute control handle to a more user friendly spot.
 

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#10 ·
It was alot of.measuring and aligning. I didn't want to drill any unnecessary holes. Also does my chain have to much slack. Is it suppose to be tight or loose fitting. It appears it might have been rubbing the belly pan.
 

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#17 ·
I didn't like the 9 1/2 turns for a full chute rotation. The star drive is about 4 turns. I like to put all my snow in a certain side and area of the drive. I also relocated the crank handle to a more user friendly location. I should now be able to keep the blower moving and quickly adjust where the chute is pointed on the fly.
 
#20 ·
Kiss I haven't gotten much done lately. I ran into a series of time consuming events. . My truck crapped the bed. It's lawn mower season (sales and service . The wife wants to revamp the garden setup. I've been able to do some dismantle of the bucket and auger. Everything came apart fairly easy. Haven't even ordered any bearings or belts yet. Play time and budget has been limited. Between the vehicle, garden fencing, kids outdoor toys, etc. I was hoping I would be further along but sometimes life has other plans.
 
#21 · (Edited)
Well guys the Ariens PONR project is back on track. Just this week I received my Carlisle 16.6.5x8. Also installed a replacement coil.The fly wheel must of had some hungry critters residing under it at some point. It was still running but wiring was pretty chewed up. As Murphy's law would go, it would have failed during the biggest storm. Glad I caught it in time.
Also took apart the gear case, augers, and the whole shabang. My auger bearings are in. I ordered a few extra this year. It was a deal I couldn't pass up on.
Now for a couple questions. I remember last year the cord pulled out of my hand abruptly a couple times. I checked the key (see pic) looks normal and used. Is a faulty keyway usually obvious in visual inspection or will a minute imperfection cause malfunction?
Also I forgot, do I freeze or heat the bearing to slide onto the shaft? Thanks for any help.
 

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#23 ·
Thanks 43128. The key did come out with no effort at all. I will replace it. Going to stop at a hardware store tomorrow. Cross my fingers I find one easy. I also cleaned a considerable amount of carbon from the valves and head. Hopefully she fires up nice and smooth now.
 
#24 ·
If the key still looks fine (to me it does) I would just reuse it. The key doesn't actually hold anything on, it just lines the flywheel up for tightening. The nut is what actually holds things in place. You could technically not use a key if you lined things up right. I seriously doubt you have enough play in it to cause any issues.

You would always want to freeze the inside part and heat the outside part. Cold contracts and heat expands. Though, you would never want to heat a bearing except for maybe keep it in a warm room. You don't want to melt the rubber seals or boil the grease inside.
 
#25 ·
On the kickback. Assuming you've already been inside the engine. Did the cam and crank timing marks line up? Intermittent kickback could be the compression release sticking open (the spring not returning the weight leaving the tab turned clear of nipping the valve open). Maybe goofy connection from the critters caused it to fire early intermittently???? Is that a points engine?
 
#26 ·
No not a points engine. I did remove the cam and all seems perfect on that end. I'm thinking my problem came from fuel misfire. Due to the faulty wiring and excessive carbon deposits in the cylinder head. It was also the original plug. Which the previous owner said he never removed. I didn't even attempt to force it off. Just gave it plenty of lube when the head was off and pronto. The true test will be later on tonight after reassembly. I have my carb soaking in the HF ultrasonic cleaner and simple Green while I'm at work. I'm going to go with a new key any way.
 
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