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1973 Areins refurb - engine won't start

5K views 12 replies 8 participants last post by  OmegaTim 
#1 ·
Hoping for some help here.
I just bought an Ariens 10995 model with the 8HP Tecumseh HM80-155020 for 50 bucks. The tractor looks great, but everything else needs work. I'm trying to get some spark. I've pulled the flywheel and cleaned up the coil and inside the flywheel of rust with sandpaper, put it all back together - still no spark.
1. Is there a way to adjust the gap?
2. Do I just need a new coil?
3. Any other ideas?
 
#5 ·
With breaker point ignition engines that have been sitting, nine times out of ten, the points just need to be cleaned. A small emery board works good; but you have to follow with clean, dry, thin cardboard, to remove the grit from the point surfaces. Ideally, you would remove them from the engine and clean each face of the points. Either way, with the coil wire disconnected, you should be able to turn the engine over and, with an ohm meter connected between the point terminal and the engine block, see the meter fluctuate from infinity to ZERO, as the engine revolves. If there is even one ohm resistance with the points closed, you need to clean them some more.
 
#6 ·
Hi all,
I got it running after replacing the coil. It needs a carb rebuild/replace; two rubber rings are deteriorated and a tiny spring was in the bowl. I've searched this site and lots are suggesting the Chinese replacement carb - which I'd like to try before sinking $90 on the OEM part or the expensive rebuild kit. Problem is, I can't find the replacment for part 631660 (aka LME-49). Do you guys know if the part will fit if it just says it fits HM80/HM100? Like this one:
NEW CARBURETOR Carb HM80/HM100 for Tecumseh 640152/640023/640051/640140 US LOCAL

Or maybe someone knows the best cheap replacement?
 
#8 ·
hm 80 replacement carb

I got one off amazon and it works great. It has all the screws you need to adjust. There are plenty of videos on how to adjust them and they are pretty straight forward. Just keep everything from the old carb. Some Machines you have to modify the choke lever but other then that they work fine.
 
#10 ·
Thanks for the input guys, but my question is still unanswered. I have not found an aftermarket carb that lists 631660 as the part number it replaces. 631660 is listed in the manual as the part number for my year 1973 HM80-155020 engine. Do you guys know if the part will fit if the description states it fits HM80/HM100 but does not also indicate my part #?
 
#13 ·
The carb I bought and installed turned out to be the wrong fit in a couple areas.
1. The choke lever is not one of those that is long and thin.
2. the overall size is 1/4" smaller.
So, I had to carve up the throttle control plate so it could be moved so the screw holes would line up, shorten the linkage rods by 1/4" each, and fabricate an extension for the choke lever.
And now I have to believe that the smaller carb is kinda maxed out as far as adjustments go. Once the engine was warm I was able to unscrew the jet almost out of the bowl to get the engine to top out at full throttle. It was leaking gas at that point so I had to turn it back in a full turn. So, I don't think I'm getting all 8hp, but close enough for this season. Then, once the engine is hot I was expecting to be able to cut it and then easily pull it started, but I needed to use the electric starter. I haven't gotten the idle adjusted properly yet, so maybe that's it. Or maybe replacing the SAE30 oil with some 5W30. Or all of the above?
 
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