Re-Powering Troy-Bilt 2410 w/ B & S 305cc - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
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post #1 of 122 Old 02-28-2017, 09:36 PM Thread Starter
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Re-Powering Troy-Bilt 2410 w/ B & S 305cc

This might be more appropriately called overpowering a Troy-Bilt 2410.

Anyway, as per my Briggs & Stratton 305cc purchasing thread, I have a fairly large engine to use for a re-power of my 2014 Troy-Bilt 2410 w/ 179cc engine. The machine works well, having given it an impeller modification last year (rubber paddles). I figure with a 14.50 Gross Torque ( 9 HP ish) engine, it will be awesome.

I also plan on adding some LED lights to the TB 2410, as the B & S 305cc has a 60 Watt AC charging system. I'll need to convert the AC to DC, but I figure that a full wave bridge rectifier along with a decent sized capacitor and a 12 volt regulator will do the trick.

Anyway, I got the engine mounted, but ran into a bit of a snag . . . the shaft on the original TB 179cc engine is 7/8" and the Briggs has a 3/4". So, I'll either have to do a sleeve or some new pulleys.

Thoughts on which way to go ?

Here are some pictures of the day . . .

The original engine
Re-Powering Troy-Bilt 2410 w/ B & S 305cc-img_9671.jpg

It is bolted from the underside of the chassis.
Re-Powering Troy-Bilt 2410 w/ B & S 305cc-img_9673.jpg

I removed the original engine. Here are the original and new engine side by side.
Re-Powering Troy-Bilt 2410 w/ B & S 305cc-img_9677.jpg

I made a pencil rubbing of the base of the new engine on a piece of paper.
Re-Powering Troy-Bilt 2410 w/ B & S 305cc-img_9685.jpg

The holes happen to match a set of existing holes in the chassis. So that is a good thing. Perhaps this chassis is used on some larger machines.
Re-Powering Troy-Bilt 2410 w/ B & S 305cc-img_9684.jpg

Here are the holes that match the Briggs 305cc. The original engine used a set of holes inside of the ones that fit the Briggs.
Re-Powering Troy-Bilt 2410 w/ B & S 305cc-img_9683.jpg


continued on the next post . . . .

Regards, Ted
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Current & Past Fleet:
2017 Husqvarna ST224 (SOLD)
2014 Troy-Bilt 2410 w/ Briggs & Stratton 305cc Engine
2003 Ariens ST824LE (SOLD)
1999 Toro PowerShift 824 w/ 318cc OHV Tecumseh Engine
1988 Toro 521 w/ 212cc Predator Engine
1985 Toro 3521 w/ 179cc Powermore Engine (SOLD)

Last edited by tpenfield; 02-28-2017 at 09:48 PM.
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post #2 of 122 Old 02-28-2017, 09:44 PM Thread Starter
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. . . continued from previous post

The holes in the base of the Briggs 305 appeared to be sized for a 5/16" bolt. I had 3/8" bolts, and the original engine used 3/8" bolts. So, I took a 3/8" tap and added threads to the base of the Briggs engine so that I could use the 3/8" bolts.
Re-Powering Troy-Bilt 2410 w/ B & S 305cc-img_9686.jpg

Here are the bolts threaded into the engine base from the underside of the chassis and a lock nut fastened on top.
Re-Powering Troy-Bilt 2410 w/ B & S 305cc-img_9687.jpgRe-Powering Troy-Bilt 2410 w/ B & S 305cc-img_9688.jpg

Here is the engine all mounted on the chassis of the 2410.
Re-Powering Troy-Bilt 2410 w/ B & S 305cc-img_9691.jpg

It was a little late, so I did not run the engine yet, but it is all ready to go now that it is securely mounted. I just need to figure something out with the shaft sizing issue. My inclination is to get a new set of pulleys that fit a 3/4" shaft, but I am not sure if that would be the best way to go, versus getting a sleeve for the shaft.

Regards, Ted
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Current & Past Fleet:
2017 Husqvarna ST224 (SOLD)
2014 Troy-Bilt 2410 w/ Briggs & Stratton 305cc Engine
2003 Ariens ST824LE (SOLD)
1999 Toro PowerShift 824 w/ 318cc OHV Tecumseh Engine
1988 Toro 521 w/ 212cc Predator Engine
1985 Toro 3521 w/ 179cc Powermore Engine (SOLD)

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post #3 of 122 Old 02-28-2017, 10:27 PM
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A shim would not be too bad, You could actually make one as long as you cut strait and keep it close to the key way only being 1/16 thick as long as the key fits both shaft and pulley, I like what your doing and will be watching, You could recoup a large chunk of the engine price by selling the old one but wait a little time before you sell in case of issues.

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post #4 of 122 Old 03-01-2017, 12:02 AM
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I like it a lot.

My stock 2410 just keeps chugging away and getting the job done, no complaints. I'm a firm believer that bigger is better.
On those lights you might want to look around a bit before you commit to the bridge. It seems there are more and more LEDs available that have the converter inside and they list they run on AC or DC.

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post #5 of 122 Old 03-01-2017, 01:41 AM
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That bad boy is going to throw snow to the neighbors driveway!

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post #6 of 122 Old 03-01-2017, 07:22 AM Thread Starter
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Quick update . . .

since the old engine is sort of an odd-ball shaft diameter or 7/8", I might be better off to keep the pulleys with that engine and buy a set of 3/4" bore pulleys for the re-power. Besides the Troy-Bilt pulleys are a bit funky in their design, not typical of off-the shelf pulleys.

There are 2 pulleys needed

(1) Wheel drive - 2" outside diameter that takes a 3/8" wide v-belt

(2) Auger Drive - 2-3/4" (2.75") outside diameter that takes a 1/2" wide v-belt.

the keyway on the shaft of the B & S is about 0.180" wide, not sure of the depth.

Looking at pulleys, etc online, I am not sure what the term "pitch diameter" is referring to.

any help on the pulleys ? (thanks in advance)

Regards, Ted
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Current & Past Fleet:
2017 Husqvarna ST224 (SOLD)
2014 Troy-Bilt 2410 w/ Briggs & Stratton 305cc Engine
2003 Ariens ST824LE (SOLD)
1999 Toro PowerShift 824 w/ 318cc OHV Tecumseh Engine
1988 Toro 521 w/ 212cc Predator Engine
1985 Toro 3521 w/ 179cc Powermore Engine (SOLD)

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post #7 of 122 Old 03-01-2017, 01:44 PM
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If the factory pulleys have a recessed notch for a keyway, then a simple 3/4 to 7/8 sleeve will work.

If the factory pulleys have a protruding notch that slips into the key slot on the crank shaft, then you'll need new pulleys.

If you end up needing new pulleys upsizing the auger drive pulley a little will produce a faster Impeller speed and more throwing distance and likely more snow volume capacity.

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post #8 of 122 Old 03-01-2017, 05:04 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drmerdp View Post

(1) If the factory pulleys have a recessed notch for a keyway, then a simple 3/4 to 7/8 sleeve will work.

(2) If the factory pulleys have a protruding notch that slips into the key slot on the crank shaft, then you'll need new pulleys.

If you end up needing new pulleys upsizing the auger drive pulley a little will produce a faster Impeller speed and more throwing distance and likely more snow volume capacity.
Yes, the second one . . Protruding notch. They are also made of 2 halves that go together and form the 'V' notch for the belt. Looks like a very specific design to Troy-Bilt rather than a common set of pulleys.

So, I think I am on the new pulley route. I may not be able to get to a Tractor Supply store in the next couple of weeks, so ordering something online would be preferable. I just want to make sure I get the right thing and don't have to play 'hit or miss'.

I was figuring on going with as much as a 3" diameter pulley for the auger drive, which would give about a 9% increase in auger-impeller speed versus the wheel drive speed. Thinking if I went too much more the larger pulley may not fit inside the belt cover.

Regards, Ted
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Current & Past Fleet:
2017 Husqvarna ST224 (SOLD)
2014 Troy-Bilt 2410 w/ Briggs & Stratton 305cc Engine
2003 Ariens ST824LE (SOLD)
1999 Toro PowerShift 824 w/ 318cc OHV Tecumseh Engine
1988 Toro 521 w/ 212cc Predator Engine
1985 Toro 3521 w/ 179cc Powermore Engine (SOLD)
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post #9 of 122 Old 03-01-2017, 08:00 PM Thread Starter
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Update:

I ran the new engine for about 1/2 an hour tonight. It started right up and seems to run fine. I can tell that it is a lot of engine for the machine. I ran it at a variety of speeds during the 30 minutes . . . only put it to/near full throttle briefly.

Just got to get the pulleys sorted out. I also think I will 'tweak' the impeller mod to further close up the gap, as I left a bit of a gap when I installed the paddles. I also will have an opportunity to grease up the drive mechanism before putting the lower cover back on, etc.

Regards, Ted
.
Current & Past Fleet:
2017 Husqvarna ST224 (SOLD)
2014 Troy-Bilt 2410 w/ Briggs & Stratton 305cc Engine
2003 Ariens ST824LE (SOLD)
1999 Toro PowerShift 824 w/ 318cc OHV Tecumseh Engine
1988 Toro 521 w/ 212cc Predator Engine
1985 Toro 3521 w/ 179cc Powermore Engine (SOLD)
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post #10 of 122 Old 03-01-2017, 09:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tpenfield View Post
Update:


I also think I will 'tweak' the impeller mod to further close up the gap, as I left a bit of a gap when I installed the paddles. I also will have an opportunity to grease up the drive mechanism before putting the lower cover back on, etc.
When you change the paddles, make sure to notch them a bit where they pass by the bolt heads that hold the discharge chute on. They hang out some inside the impeller chamber.

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