replaced engine on MTD Yard machine 5/22 with a Harbor Freight Predator 212cc - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
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post #1 of 55 Old 11-19-2012, 02:19 AM Thread Starter
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replaced engine on MTD Yard machine 5/22 with a Harbor Freight Predator 212cc

I have a good condition 1995 MTD 5/22 snowblower that I have never like the engine on. It has always seemed to be a bit underpowered and is real hard to start and I have broken the recoil on it several times. If left outside in the cold it is impossible to start will never pop. I have a heated garage and I could usually get it going and then I would take it outside and blow my driveway. I bought a Predator 212cc (Honda Clone)this summer for a minibike of mine and I love the engine. It’s powerful and starts on the first or second pull so I decided to replace the troublesome Tecumseh. The Tecumseh engine has two drive shafts. One has a 2 inch pulley (drive) the other has a 3 inch pulley (auger). The drive shafts rotates in opposite directions so I flipped the gearbox and cut off the gear shift selector bracket and re-welded my gearshift bracket with my stick arc welder in the opposite configuration. Now I have 2 reverse gears and 5 forward but the speeds are twice as fast as before. I went to the old engine and unfortunately seen that the drive pulley rotates at half the speed of the auger pulley. What would be the best way to fix this? Do they make a ĺ inch shaft drive pulley smaller than a 2-inch? Or should I put a bigger spinning friction disk in than the one that is in it?. The transmission space can accommodate up to an inch wider spinning friction disk. At full throttle on the Predator engine the number one is ok but the number two speed is a bit brisk and number 3 is like a real fast walk.
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post #2 of 55 Old 11-19-2012, 02:41 AM Thread Starter
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Here is some photo's of My Mtd 5/22 with the Harbor Freigt Predator 212cc

Here is some photos' of My machine. Does anyone think going to a larger spinning friction disk will slow it down enough? I heard for every 1/4 inch reduction in diameter means about 300 rpm less at 3600rpm. I will look for a smaller drive pulley than a 2 inch. I bet a 1.5 inch if they make one that small will work well because it would be about 600 rpms less on the spinning disk. When I kick in the auger when the predator is on high throttle it feels like a powerful leaf blower you can realy feel the air being shot out and I watched a few Youtube post about people who used the Predator engines with good sucess. One guy said it throws snow better than any blower he has used before. Hopefully I finf that to be the case too. I would like to have more than 1 forward speed to blow my driveway with so I like to slow it down. In 4th gear it pops a wheelie if you flip the drive lever down and almost spins the tires too.
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Last edited by GustoGuy; 11-19-2012 at 02:48 AM. Reason: spelling
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post #3 of 55 Old 11-21-2012, 10:01 AM
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Gusto, Here's a little app that you can play with to figure RPM final speeds.
RPM and Pulley Calculator
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post #4 of 55 Old 11-21-2012, 01:52 PM
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Twin shafts

If you got it working with a single shaft motor, you're doing better than most. Not every 5 hp Tecumseh is a twin shaft, same with bigger ones. Some are single shaft while others are twins.

To slow down the rate, you either need to alter the size of one or the other pulleys - smaller on the engine or larger pulley on the drive.

The twin shaft engines, the 2d pulley is running off the cam, which turns at half the rate of the engine.
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post #5 of 55 Old 11-22-2012, 02:06 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks jtclays and HCPH. I found a different lower pulley on Jackssmall engines website. Its a 65604025A Friction Disc $69.19 http://www.jackssmallengines.com/Pro...04025A/1945486
and its 8.5 Inches across and used in 31 inch 2007 and newer MTD Yard machines ironically that use a larger LCT Honda Clone. It will fit in the space and the calculated reduction of rpms with engine at 3600 is about 300 rpm with the calculator that you provided. I also fashioned a snow shield that bolts onto the motor and covers the space between the engine and the gas tank. I heard that this is important to protect the governor from becoming iced up with blowing snow. I will take a picture of my finished project and let everyone know how it turned out. In order to get 2 reverse and 5 forward speeds you need to flip the gear box and flip the gear shift lever so it will go in the opposite direction. This requires a welder luckly I have one. It comes in handy when retrofiting these old machines
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Last edited by GustoGuy; 11-22-2012 at 02:14 PM.
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post #6 of 55 Old 11-22-2012, 09:59 PM
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Could you not just lower the max rpm using one of the throttle set screws ?
Here is my build ... wonder if my smaller engine will have the same wheelie issues
https://www.snowblowerforum.com/forum...5hp-clone.html

I noticed we are tackling the linkage issues a little different ... I wish i had a welder
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post #7 of 55 Old 11-23-2012, 01:51 AM Thread Starter
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Bain. You could simply take a hack saw and cut off the rod to the gear shift lever bracket at were it connects and take it over to a welding shop and they could most likely weld it for you for $25.00 or less. You also need to cut off the original pin and relocate it to the other side as well. You could see if the welding shop would do it for you at the same time when they weld the bracket. Also as you seen in an earlier post I found a larger diameter MTD friction plate and according to the rpm calculator the larger friction plate diameter should slow down the rotation by over 300 rpms. I am hoping that this leads to slower drive speeds while at full throttle so I can have the most power and speed to the auger in order to throw the most snow. You could go to a bigger auger top pulley to retain the proper speed of the auger but at lower engine rpms you may lug the engine. I heard that the Predator 212cc makes max torque at about 2900rpm so you will need to be running it that rpm or better or you will notice a performance hit. Thats why I am going with the bigger friction plate. I do not want to lug the engine below it's torque peak of 2900rpm and I would like at least 2 usable forward speeds while snow blowing. I bought my stick welder for $100.00 at Menard's a couple years ago and it works well for light welding jobs. Right now if I were buying another welder I would get a Harbor Freight mig/flux core wire feed since they are now on sale and they have 170amps of power.

Last edited by GustoGuy; 11-23-2012 at 01:59 AM. Reason: spelling
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post #8 of 55 Old 11-24-2012, 04:30 PM Thread Starter
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Just waiting for my larger friction wheel plate to come and I am ready to put mine togather. The rpm calculater came in real handy and I should only be slightly faster on my speed than it was with the old engine. I will post pictures of the final project and let everone know how it works.
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post #9 of 55 Old 11-28-2012, 04:15 PM Thread Starter
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Recieved my 8.25 inch diameter friction plate today

I received my 8.25 inch friction plate and I needed to modify the swing bracket on the snowblower by drilling a larger hole and grinding the edge of the metal away because the disk made contact with the bracket in it's unmodified state. I modified the disk and it seems to work well. I am going to put it into the snowblower and see how it works. here are some pictures of what I am doing
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Last edited by GustoGuy; 11-28-2012 at 04:19 PM.
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post #10 of 55 Old 01-02-2014, 11:43 AM
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gearshift change

Quote:
Originally Posted by GustoGuy View Post
I have a good condition 1995 MTD 5/22 snowblower that I have never like the engine on. It has always seemed to be a bit underpowered and is real hard to start and I have broken the recoil on it several times. If left outside in the cold it is impossible to start will never pop. I have a heated garage and I could usually get it going and then I would take it outside and blow my driveway. I bought a Predator 212cc (Honda Clone)this summer for a minibike of mine and I love the engine. Itís powerful and starts on the first or second pull so I decided to replace the troublesome Tecumseh. The Tecumseh engine has two drive shafts. One has a 2 inch pulley (drive) the other has a 3 inch pulley (auger). The drive shafts rotates in opposite directions so I flipped the gearbox and cut off the gear shift selector bracket and re-welded my gearshift bracket with my stick arc welder in the opposite configuration. Now I have 2 reverse gears and 5 forward but the speeds are twice as fast as before. I went to the old engine and unfortunately seen that the drive pulley rotates at half the speed of the auger pulley. What would be the best way to fix this? Do they make a ĺ inch shaft drive pulley smaller than a 2-inch? Or should I put a bigger spinning friction disk in than the one that is in it?. The transmission space can accommodate up to an inch wider spinning friction disk. At full throttle on the Predator engine the number one is ok but the number two speed is a bit brisk and number 3 is like a real fast walk.
Hi, I know your posts are a couple of years old, hopefully you may still be able to get this and help me walk through how you switched the gear
shift mechanism to get the forward and reverse working correctly. I just put the Predator engine on my snowblower and I am happy with the operation/better blowing.
I bought the same size pulley as the auger drive and it travels really fast in my six speed reverse operation. If you have a picture of what you did, I'd appreciate that.

Happy New Year.
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