Sears 24" to Predator Repower - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
 
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post #1 of 10 Old 02-25-2020, 09:43 AM Thread Starter
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Sears 24" to Predator Repower

Hello,
This is about my repower of a Sears Craftsman snowblower. It is a 24" model 247.889571 of 2005 (I think). It had an LTC 208cc engine that quit after start up in November of 2019. I a. cleaned carb, b. replaced carb, c. had good spark. Noticed the plug was oily. Compression was very low. After the repower I took the engine apart and could not find any problems. Two other skilled mechanics (25+yrs. experience) looked at it and could find no problems. Bummed out that no reason for not starting was found. Given the price of the replacement engine it probably would not have been good economics to fix it. I am pleased with the repower. Have only used it 5 times so far. Two of the cleanings were of about 3 - 5" of heavy wet snow.
I bought a Harbor Freight Predator on sale for $99 for the repower. pictures and comments follow.
These are of the original setup. It should be noted that the 2 pulleys are part of an assembly. In the next post are details of that assembly.
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post #2 of 10 Old 02-25-2020, 09:59 AM
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Something does not look right in those pictures. It looks like the idler pulley closest to the engine block is askew/faulty.
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post #3 of 10 Old 02-25-2020, 10:14 AM
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Did you happen to carefully inspect the block deck and head surface to see if maybe the head gasket failed ? Your symptoms sound like you had a small failure causing the oil leak and lower compression.
For most engines they want no more than .003 clearance.


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Make sure the windows are up before the snow plow goes by !!

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post #4 of 10 Old 02-25-2020, 10:25 AM Thread Starter
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Somewhere I was led to believe that the LCT and Predator had a 3/4" shaft dia. Not true. The LCT shaft is 7/8" and the Predator is 3/4". The orig. pulley assembly has a tube of 7/8" I.D. larger front pulley is pressed onto the tube and is in 2 pieces. The smaller, rear, pulley is also in 2 pieces but is not pressed onto the tube. The Tube has a key running it's entire length. There is no loose key. After taking the retaining bolt out the pulley assembly (tube and 2 pulleys) moved on the shaft with some prying. On a subsequent pry the rear pulley broke. I suppose I was not close to shaft but out towards the edge of the pulley. On getting the pulley assembly off I realized the LCT shaft was 7/8". Time for plan B. I purchased 2 pulleys locally (AK20X3/4 ; AK28X3/4) for about $8. They had two allen set screws. Had the assembly not broken I would have had to purchase a shaft size adapter sleeve from Ebay which would have been at least what I paid for the pulleys so that turned out okay.
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Last edited by burt8810; 02-25-2020 at 11:49 AM. Reason: spelling
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post #5 of 10 Old 02-25-2020, 10:43 AM
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agree with mark on the head gasket, but have also seen motor's that had dirty cooling fins allow the cylinder to run hot to where the bore and rings glazed to near glass like, allowing the rings to not wipe off the excess oil and burn it,
there it's time to do a cylinder leak down test with the tool,if one fails to have or can't borrow one, use a compression tester,check it dry, inject about a shot glass of oil though the plug hole,recheck if the compression goes up you have bad rings,if not it's a valve issue

it's possible you could have done a hone and ring job, clean up the head re-lap the valves and gone on
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post #6 of 10 Old 02-25-2020, 11:20 AM Thread Starter
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Removed LCT engine and positioned Predator. Things went really well here. The holes in the blower were in exactly the correct position. Put capscrews in from the bottom and tack welded heads to the blower. Set Predator on the 4 capscrews and eveything is good.
Positioned new pulleys on engine shaft to line up with driven pulleys in the blower. Large front pulley was about 1/2" beyond end of shaft when correctly aligned leaving about 3/4" on the shaft. Bought a 3/4"O.D X 3/8" I.D. X 1/2" long steel bushing and attached to end of shaft with 5/16" NF capscrew. Now whole length of pulley is supported.
Put gas and oil (DO NOT FORGET OIL) in engine. First pull was a backfire. Second pull got the engine running. Pretty good start (pun intended).
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post #7 of 10 Old 02-25-2020, 11:34 AM Thread Starter
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While I was at it I put some wipers on the blower wheel. Predrilled holes in blades then used 2 self-tapping sheet metal screws with large washers. The material is SBR (Styrene Butadiene Rubber) Sheet, 70 Shore A, Black, Smooth Finish, No Backing, 0.25" Thickness, 6" Width, 36" Length. I needed 3 pieces about 2"X3". I have other uses for the excess material. Saw a post on this forum which mentioned the material, thanks for that.
Picture of wiper is looking down from chute with the chute mount removed from the blower.
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post #8 of 10 Old 02-25-2020, 11:36 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oneacer View Post
Something does not look right in those pictures. It looks like the idler pulley closest to the engine block is askew/faulty.
Perhaps but I don't think so. Maybe my picture angle.
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post #9 of 10 Old 02-25-2020, 11:45 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 87powershiftx2 View Post
agree with mark on the head gasket, but have also seen motor's that had dirty cooling fins allow the cylinder to run hot to where the bore and rings glazed to near glass like, allowing the rings to not wipe off the excess oil and burn it,
there it's time to do a cylinder leak down test with the tool,if one fails to have or can't borrow one, use a compression tester,check it dry, inject about a shot glass of oil though the plug hole,recheck if the compression goes up you have bad rings,if not it's a valve issue

it's possible you could have done a hone and ring job, clean up the head re-lap the valves and gone on
I doubt that something that obvious escaped the 6 eyes that checked things out. The valves and seats were practically perfect and the clearance was correct. There were uniform hone marks left from the mfg. process. A little smoother near the top of the cylinder but basically all good.

AND

If one of these would have been the problem the cost to repair, for parts alone, would have been at least $50 - $60. Then there's the time.

I'm happy with my solution.

Thanks for the feedback.
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post #10 of 10 Old 02-25-2020, 03:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by burt8810 View Post
I doubt that something that obvious escaped the 6 eyes that checked things out. The valves and seats were practically perfect and the clearance was correct. There were uniform hone marks left from the mfg. process. A little smoother near the top of the cylinder but basically all good.

AND

If one of these would have been the problem the cost to repair, for parts alone, would have been at least $50 - $60. Then there's the time.

I'm happy with my solution.

Thanks for the feedback.
i've been in the field for 60 years and sure will admit, I've had many motors that made me look more like a moron more times than i can count.or like to admit to.

there have been many a motor i had burning oil,low on compression .where the cross hatch looked perfect, that garbed me by the short hairs trying to figure it out, there i learned from a than old timer how use the poor mans leak down test, add oil to the cylinder, from there i purchased a leak down tester ,i learned that the leak down was from glazed walls and rings that had lost their tension to hold, one case the one piece oil ring was installed with out the expansion ring under the cast iron ring

our eyes can not always see whats the cause, we need to trouble shoot fully, use tools that help find the issue, we never stop learning, we grow old to soon,smart to late
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