1978 Ariens compact re-powering log - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
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post #1 of 23 Old 05-06-2015, 07:55 PM Thread Starter
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1978 Ariens compact re-powering log

I haven't been able to find any info about re-powering a cam PTO engine, let alone a compact model. I'm hopefully going to see this project through over the summer, but I'd love to get some input on the subject and share my work with anyone else trying to rescue this style of machine.

I've got a 1978 compact 932006 - 24" cut with 5HP stock engine (I believe this model became the ST504 in the 80's). I've had it for 1 year and have about $500 sunk into it after purchase and gear box rebuild. I love the compact size, I don't live on a property worthy of a 10hp+ machine. The original engine worked well this past year, I have no idea if the compression is suspect (either via a poor head gasket or valve seal), however I found a good deal on a working Tecumseh OHSK70 and thought it would be cheap insurance if my engine ever crapped out. Obviously I'm here and can't wait that long so I think it would be fun to re-power for the heck of it plus the benefits of better emissions, quieter running machine and if i'm lucky, perhaps a little more juice out of a comparable size/weight engine. The new engine is also 195CC just like the old one, but the OHV design should be stronger, yes? Oh, I also want this mod to be reversible in case the new engine dies mid-winter. So far, I think I'm covered for that.

I see 3 issues at present:

- Mounting. The body mounted gear shifter is in the way of the recoil cowl.
- Chute crank. The original was a straight single shaft but this engine is much more bulk over the left tire. I think I need to get a new rod with 1 or 2 u-joints.
- Belts. The pulley sizes and positions are different, new belts are called for. The auger pulley is 1" larger on this new machine, but the cam PTO is smaller, by about 3/8". I like the sounds of the larger auger pulley!
- Tires. This isn't really an issue, but if I make it this far I'm definitely upping the ante and getting some x-trac tires.

See the photos for my initial modifications. I've used longer bolts and washers to push the shifter lock plate backwards. This plate holds the shifter rod axle but there is enough extra rod to allow for this motion backwards - just enough. I still need to buy more space, so more washers will need to be fit. However, I first need to angle grind away some of the shifter plate so the recoil housing will fit. I think I also need to bend the shifter rod backwards at the current 90 deg. bend. Tips?

Stay tuned.

engine pics thread
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Last edited by cancon; 05-07-2015 at 05:55 PM.
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post #2 of 23 Old 05-08-2015, 06:44 PM Thread Starter
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Engine is mounted! I forgot to picture the motor mounting previously, but the rear posts had about 3/8" left to go before the engine would sit flush - not possible without the shifter bracket being modified.

I removed the shifter handle and bracket, bent them back in a vice about 10 degrees and had at the bracket with an angle grinder and file. I ended up using about 8 washers per side to shim back the bracket, ended up being about 1/2" in the end.

I've got the tires off now and the worm gear off the chute crank. Still trying to locate some u-joints and more 3/8" shaft. Stay tuned.
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post #3 of 23 Old 05-08-2015, 08:13 PM
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Nice to see a re-power with a Tecumseh.

I'm pretty much retired from the forum thing, but I check in every now and then.
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post #4 of 23 Old 05-08-2015, 08:56 PM
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Looks good. I need some u joint for a repower as well, I'm thinking 3/8 universal sockets, drilling a hole through the female side, then welding 3/8 bar to the male end. So far seems like the cheapest route, I don't wanna spend 65$ for two universal joints.
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post #5 of 23 Old 05-09-2015, 10:12 AM
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Looking good! I like seeing projects like this, and I don't mean to toot my own horn too loud, but if any of you guys are doing something similar and need some bits and pieces, drop me a line. I have a good amount of older parts and even have a few of the pto engines. If you're still looking for the universal joints pm me.
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post #6 of 23 Old 05-09-2015, 08:11 PM
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For U joints I have welded a 3/8 universal joint to one end of the cut off rod and welded 3/8 socket on the other end.
That way i can take it apart by just pulling them off when needed.
I've done it twice (double swivels) and it has worked great.
For the rod I have just used stock 3/8 rod.
The universal joints are inexpensive at Harbor Freight.
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post #7 of 23 Old 05-11-2015, 04:35 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks to everyone, especially sidewinder, who just dropped 3 Ariens' U-joints in the mail for me. Right on!!!

Tires are on order as well.

I really like the idea of using a socket set U-joint with 3/8" socket for a quick-disconnect idea, that's totally smart. I may yet incorporate this into the design...

I'm glad I can be using a USA made engine that hasn't been worked to death - not that I have much of a choice without modding the independent tractor/blower pulley systems. No thanks!
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post #8 of 23 Old 05-11-2015, 04:36 PM
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I was at a flea market, some guy was selling the spring type extensions. I thought this would be an option if I ever have to repower.

What do you guys think?..

Jawco 3 8” inch Drive 8” Long Flexible Socket Extension Bar Made in USA MF8 | eBay
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post #9 of 23 Old 05-11-2015, 11:25 PM
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Some husqvarna's use a long one of these inside a flexible housing.
Link to a thread I started awhile back on this

edit: A link I forgot that was in that post that shows some inside a housing.
http://www.elliottmfg.com/?id=29

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post #10 of 23 Old 05-11-2015, 11:45 PM
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dbert, That's a cool link.
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