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post #1 of 12 Old 11-30-2015, 12:11 AM Thread Starter
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Smokin' belt on Repowered

Hello all - New to the forum because I ran into a little snag on my fairly new Craftsman 22" blower I got for a song since it had a bad motor. The knuckle head who had it manged to run it without oil somehow or other? So the little 179 cc China made motor bit the big one. Not sure what brand it was? They weren't proud enough to put a name on it. Anyway, I was lucky enough to come across a power washer that had a bad pump but a good little Honda GC engine!! I picked it up for $20 and was dancing all the way home! The shaft was a little shorter and smaller in diameter than the China one so I took a length of 3/4" EMT conduit and cut a slit down it and used it to make up the difference and everything lined up and matched up great! The issue I have is that the wheel drive belt either wants to roll off the pulley if I don't put a lot of tension on it, or the belt heats up very quickly if I snug it up to much. Everything seems to want to work otherwise. I just cant understand why the belt is heating up the pulley. The idler pulley for it originally had a spring tensioner and floated. I did away with the spring and made it bolt solid since there wasn't any easy way to mount it. What do you guys think? I think if I tried to come up with a way to go back to using the spring the belt will want to roll off? You would think having it solid would be even better than floating unless I am missing something about the way it works......




Last edited by Kiss4aFrog; 11-30-2015 at 01:26 PM.
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post #2 of 12 Old 11-30-2015, 12:31 AM
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Pictures would help so we can understand the layout. The fact that the belt is trying to roll off says something is not lined up. When does the smoke happen, when the wheels are engaged, or in standby, clutch released? Does the friction plate move toward the rear of the machine when you engage the drive clutch? If so, how is the alignment of the belt with the drive engaged? Is there a belt keeper present to keep the belt on the engine pulley?

I think you want to get the spring tensioner back in the system

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2008 Craftsman 944.528391 (It's a Husqvarna ST227P)
27", B&S 305cc 13.5 ft/lb Torque 9.5 hp

Last edited by skutflut; 11-30-2015 at 12:42 AM.
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post #3 of 12 Old 11-30-2015, 11:07 AM Thread Starter
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Yeah - I will try and post pics tonight. It's pretty straight and lined up although the pulley does tilt to enguage the friction plate which make a tough to tell the alignment for sure. Maybe I am ever so slightly cocked one side to the other? It still doesn't explain the heat up while it's in standby/idle though? There is no belt keeper there other than on the bottom of the pulley to keep the belt in the pulley.



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post #4 of 12 Old 11-30-2015, 01:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bad69cat View Post
Yeah - I will try and post pics tonight. It's pretty straight and lined up although the pulley does tilt to enguage the friction plate which make a tough to tell the alignment for sure. Maybe I am ever so slightly cocked one side to the other? It still doesn't explain the heat up while it's in standby/idle though? There is no belt keeper there other than on the bottom of the pulley to keep the belt in the pulley.
You might have too much pressure on the belt since the spring loaded idler is not being used. Heat is caused by friction, and if the belt is out of line and under fixed tension from your modification, then you are going to get heat. Was there a belt keeper on the drive pulleys before you swapped out the engine? Is there a bolt hole on the engine block where you could install one if its needed?

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2008 Craftsman 944.528391 (It's a Husqvarna ST227P)
27", B&S 305cc 13.5 ft/lb Torque 9.5 hp
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post #5 of 12 Old 12-02-2015, 12:03 AM Thread Starter
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OK guys here's what I ended up with. I laid a machinist rule across the face of the motor pulleys and then saw how much it was off - looked to be about 5/16" shallow (towards the engine). SO, I cut a 5/16 spacer and stuck it between the motor and pulley, put it all back together and I think I am much closer to success! No more rolling or jumping of the belts at least. Here's some pics of where I started:









Now I have the pulley assembly more forward and it's working better.... not great though. The speeds are still slow and the auger doesn't seem to beat at full function. But I think it's due to the belts not being snug enough. There seems to be a bit more slack than should be. I need to shorten the cable lengths or raise the motor up with a few washers I believe. The original may have a thicker deck I bet.......




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post #6 of 12 Old 12-02-2015, 12:18 AM Thread Starter
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In the last pick you can see the 3/4 conduit I cut to make up the thickness of the original shaft. I should have cut it about 3/16 longer but it worked out well. If you look at where my finger is there, that is about where the impeller pulley ends up at. You can see that it is well off the actual shaft but is well supported since the shaft is mostly one piece other than the end piece being splined and only held on by the bolt (which I had to buy a longer one to make up the difference). For some reason it was 5/16" x 24 thread bolt which caught me off guard expecting it would be metric? I spent way to much effort finding the right one......

Anyway, I will post up a few more pics once I have verified that things are going good. This machine was a Craftsman model# 31BM62799 Spec# 247 889570 in case anybody is interested in dong this conversion.



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post #7 of 12 Old 12-02-2015, 12:41 AM
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See if you can find the dimension drawing for the old engine and compare the base to centre of crank measurement to the new one. That wil tell you how much spacer you need. Other option is get a shorter belt, or increase pulley diameter. Washers are cheap...

Work fascinates me.
I can watch somebody work for hours...
2008 Craftsman 944.528391 (It's a Husqvarna ST227P)
27", B&S 305cc 13.5 ft/lb Torque 9.5 hp

Last edited by Kiss4aFrog; 12-29-2015 at 11:19 AM. Reason: duplicate photos
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post #8 of 12 Old 12-02-2015, 12:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bad69cat View Post
In the last pick you can see the 3/4 conduit I cut to make up the thickness of the original shaft. I should have cut it about 3/16 longer but it worked out well. If you look at where my finger is there, that is about where the impeller pulley ends up at. You can see that it is well off the actual shaft but is well supported since the shaft is mostly one piece other than the end piece being splined and only held on by the bolt (which I had to buy a longer one to make up the difference). For some reason it was 5/16" x 24 thread bolt which caught me off guard expecting it would be metric? I spent way to much effort finding the right one......

Anyway, I will post up a few more pics once I have verified that things are going good. This machine was a Craftsman model# 31BM62799 Spec# 247 889570 in case anybody is interested in dong this conversion.
Is your key tall enough to fill the extra slot height in the pulley created by the sleeve?

Work fascinates me.
I can watch somebody work for hours...
2008 Craftsman 944.528391 (It's a Husqvarna ST227P)
27", B&S 305cc 13.5 ft/lb Torque 9.5 hp
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post #9 of 12 Old 12-02-2015, 04:01 PM Thread Starter
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Is your key tall enough to fill the extra slot height in the pulley created by the sleeve?
Yes it does fit pretty snug but works well. I had to go pretty tight on the idler pulley, but I don't seem to be heating anything up now..... i bet she will work pretty good. That Honda is one smooth running little motor and starts with little effort. All in all I think this will be a nice machine for under $50 total! Gotta love that.....



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post #10 of 12 Old 12-28-2015, 10:09 PM Thread Starter
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Chucking snow like a pro today!!! She works like a champ - had about 4" to deal with and it didn't even grunt with the EOD stuff. Threw it about 40 Ft with the impeller mod. Well worth the effort......



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