Engine Mounting qustions/options (no welder) - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
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post #1 of 11 Old 11-30-2015, 08:07 PM Thread Starter
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Engine Mounting qustions/options (no welder)

Hello,

I bought a older ariens, model 924028, with a 8 hp tecemsuh a few winters ago. I recently decided to repower with a predator 212cc. After getting the driveshaft pulley off I discovered I need a 3/4" to 1" crankshaft sleeve adapter, which I just ordered off ebay.

But now I have a few questions about mounting options. There are 2 sets of 4 engine mounts on the existing machine: 1 set of holes closer to the drive pulleys and another farther away set which the old engine used (has existing bolts). The sets are about 1.5" apart. The predator appears to have about 4" from front mounting hole to end of drive pulley while the old engine has about 5." These are estimated since the pulley is too large for the predator without the sleeve adaptor.

What is the best way to replace the bolts with new ones in the closer set of holes? I do not have the ability to weld. It appears the holes will hold a threaded bolt, to a degree. Will using a lock washer from above be sufficient with a lag bolt? It's going to be a pain to get that engine on without the bolts being tacked in from beneath. Other options?

Is the rough 1/2" mounting "depth" variance something to worry about? It's a bit worrisome since I'd need to drill completely new mounting holes, which will be difficult to impossible to get bolts through the bottom...Is a 1/2" axis change no big deal? I guess I'll find out of there's much variance once I get the sleeve adapter, knock out the old ones, and mock up mounting the engine...

Thanks for your wisdom.
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post #2 of 11 Old 11-30-2015, 08:53 PM
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Pictures would help, along with you location. Its probably me but I was a little confused reading your post. I'll try to help, once the proper mounting holes are figured out I read where someone used hot glue to temporary hold the bolts, definitely NOT lag bolts. I did it with a few extensions and universal drive, along with my contortionist abilitys. Some guy on you tube made holders with plastic from milk containers.
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post #3 of 11 Old 11-30-2015, 09:06 PM
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I have done a couple and if you are careful you can hold the bolt on the bottom while putting a nut on the top.

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post #4 of 11 Old 11-30-2015, 09:08 PM Thread Starter
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Here is a photo. The front engine mount hole can be seen with the allen wrench next to it.
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post #5 of 11 Old 11-30-2015, 09:13 PM
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You should be able to take a nice sledge hammer and gently knock the old studs out then just use the closer holes.

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post #6 of 11 Old 11-30-2015, 09:53 PM Thread Starter
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Well I knocked out one of the bolts out using a "gentle" sledge (mythical term there, Shryp). It took about 30 whacks and indented the platform a bit to I just grinded off the rest of 'em. They were tacked on there really well; the one I got out is a bent noodle now.

So now I need to buy some new bolts. Anyone know what size these suckers are? The nut appears to be 1/2", though I bet a 13mm would work too...Will any lag from the big box stores be sufficient? Or do I need a fancy bolt since they will take some repeated torque?
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post #7 of 11 Old 11-30-2015, 10:00 PM
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Standard bolts in grade 8 with lockwashers and maybe some loctite should do the trick nicely.

-MichiganBolensNut

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post #8 of 11 Old 11-30-2015, 10:05 PM
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If it were me and the existing studs won't do the job I'd grind them off flush. The mentioned sledge hammer might work but I know some that are welded too securely for that to be practical.

Get the pulley mounted to the engine and properly on the shaft. Using the belts figure out if and holes are close enough.

If existing holes can be used pass bolts from the bottom and tighten. I agree that you can usually hold the bolt with some sore of wrench. You porbably want a helper for this.

Lacking a set of usable holes drill as needed.

Pete
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post #9 of 11 Old 11-30-2015, 10:38 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks everyone. I grinded the rest off flush and will mock up the engine with pulley once the crank adapter sleeve comes in. Really hoping it lines up close enough so I don't have to mess with new holes and the possibility of the front 2 engine mounts being on the wrong side of a 'firewall' of sorts. Stay tuned...
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post #10 of 11 Old 11-30-2015, 10:44 PM
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Sorry, mine popped out with 1 or 2 drops of a 5 pound sledge. I just held the handle above and let it fall straight down. Was no swinging. I think I used basic grade 5 bolts. Just see what size the hole is in your new engine.

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