This is my old trusty 524 that my Father bought new in 1974. I've had it since about 1995. I've nursed the old H50 Tecumseh along each year, even bringing it back from the dead once when the connecting rod journal seized up on the crank journal.
I've entertained the idea of buying a new machine the past couple of years, but quite frankly, I'm not impressed with the materials used these days. Sheetmetal seems a thinner gauge, and lots of plastics are used.
So why should I spend close to $1,000 on a new machine when really all this one needs is a new engine? So after researching them, bought the Harbor Frieght Predator 212.
I was pleasantly surprised I didn't need to do anything with the chute control. I was expecting the engine's head to interfere with it as I have seen with other Toro Predator repowers.
Runs like a dream!
I disconnected the low oil sensor, and hooked up the dead man kill switch in it's place.
Throttle cable works in the opposite direction of the original. Fast is idle, and idle is fast. No biggie.
A lot of sparklies in there huh?
I haven't got more that 5 minutes on mine yet. Waiting for a load (snow) to do the break-in run.
I guess I could go move snow around in the back yard.
Atta boy Dale
Just remember, Rabbit = slow, turtle = fast.
Thanks for the shaft height pic. I was wishing I'd have taken a photo when I did that with my 724 swap.
Wow. Never too old to learn something new.
I was having issues in my searching, but found this at Briggs and stratton
In the past, the engine break-in period was very important to the overall life and durability or the engine. The break-in period required has changed over the years with improved piston ring materials and designs. The break-in period now (5-10 hours) is short in comparison with that of engines of the past. Aluminum cylinder bore engine piston rings break-in faster than those used on case iron cylinder bores.
Break-in period is accomplished at any speed above idle and may occur faster if the engine is operated at varying loads and speeds. However, break-in occurs at an acceptable rate if the engine is operated at slightly less than top no-load speed with or without a moderate load. Combustion pressures at this speed are sufficiently high to cause piston rings to conform to the cylinder wall. It is recommended that an engine not be operated continuously at full load during the initial hours of operation. This can lead to permanent deformation of the cylinder bore.
What a difference!
Just chews it up and throws it like nobody's business!
Since it runs at a higher rpm, even the drive speeds are improved. 2nd gear is faster than what 3rd ever was.
The governor iced up towards the end, and had to stop and thaw it out with a heat gun. Fashioning a shield is in order.
All in all I'm very happy with it. :icon-clapping-smile
I fashioned a shield out of aluminum sheet that I bought at the hardware store. I covers the entire PTO side of the engine and wraps around the side of the gas tank towards the front of the engine. I have used my Predator repowered MTD 5/22 for 3 years now and my governor has never iced up on me. One year I was blowing snow for 45 minutes strait with out any problems and it was only 15 degrees out.
I had the chance to make one for my predator and made it the same way. On mine one recoil screw holds it on and the gas tank bracket holds on the other end
Did u guys make something to cover the linkage from the top, in between the tank muffler and air filter? I taped a cookie tin to the top the first time it iced. Probably just me but duct taping a tin seems kind hacky.
I would take that tape off unless you want tape, fabric, and glue residue stuck to your muffler. It melts in there real good(ask me how I know!)
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