looking to replace an LH195SP - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
 
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post #1 of 9 Old 01-25-2016, 08:58 AM Thread Starter
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looking to replace an LH195SP

Hope the OP doesn't mind me using his thread rather than starting a new one. I too am looking to replace an LH195SP. This is on a little 3AA-series compact 2-stage Troy Bilt that looks a bit like this (mine's a 24", however):



Despite being in remarkably good condition with few hours, the engine is just too gutless. I doubt it's making its advertised 5.5HP and so I'm looking to repower it.

The engine variant on this one is the "LH195SP-67514D" which, I'm led to believe after some googling, has a crankshaft like this:



I can't find an engine with an exact match for this crank so I figured I would search for something that would fit the 195SP's footprint and adapt pulleys as needed.

Question 1: My two current engine candidates are a 196cc Kohler SH265 and a 212 Chinese-made "Rato" 7HP (Predator clone.) The Kohler is about $100 more expensive but I suspect it's also better quality. Any thoughts on which to go with?

The Kohler is about the same displacement as the Tec and only rated 1HP more. Is it going to suffer the same bogging and lack of power apparent with the Tec? I like the idea of more power from the Rato but what I can see shows the Kohler making more peak torque than the Predator (and, presumably, its clones...)

Question 2: This little blower uses 3/8" belts (754-04013 and 754-04014) for the auger and traction drive but I'm not certain if these belts are 3V or 3L. Anyone know?

I've basically settled on some AK3234 cast-iron pulleys for use with the new engine (3/4" shaft) and plan to lathe them down from 3.25" OD to 2.8" to clear the auger idler pulley and the belt cover. My concern is that with these pulleys milled down a 3L seems to fit better than a 3V (in this image 3L is modeled on the bottom, 3V on the top):



Installed, these pulley's should look something like this:



Because of the shaft-length differences, the auger pulley overhangs the end of the crank snout by about 3.5mm:



There'd still be lots of meat on the shaft and a set-screw. I showed the bolt in the first model in case I add it just for "security."

If anyone has any thoughts, suggestions or tips for what I'm trying to do here I'd greatly appreciate it.
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post #2 of 9 Old 01-25-2016, 09:06 AM
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to the forum Blackfin


He might not but I do. Let me tell you why.

You have a different machine and after you get help finding out what to put on it "we" would like to see you follow through with your thread on your machine to help anyone else coming along with a similar machine.
It's also better served being in the "Re-Power" section.

What is the model number of the Yard Machine ??

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post #3 of 9 Old 01-25-2016, 12:40 PM Thread Starter
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to the forum Blackfin


He might not but I do. Let me tell you why.

You have a different machine and after you get help finding out what to put on it "we" would like to see you follow through with your thread on your machine to help anyone else coming along with a similar machine.
It's also better served being in the "Re-Power" section.

What is the model number of the Yard Machine ??

.
Thanks K4aF. Makes complete sense.

The model number of the blower is 31AS3CB2563

The engine is marked LH195SP-67514D.
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post #4 of 9 Old 02-20-2016, 03:11 PM Thread Starter
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Well, I went ahead and got enough bits together to do the LH195SP tp Predator swap. I'm not entirely happy with the way the pulleys worked out but overall the swap went very easily. A few pics:

Here's the PTO side showing one of the things that makes me less than happy. The auger pulley sits an awful long way off the shaft. However, the pulley is quite deep and there is a lot on the shaft too. I might still add a bolt to the end of the crank with a spacer to provide some support.



The PTO from the other side:



The engine came with the recoil handle down and to the left (seen from the recoil side), under the choke and fuel valve controls. This would have made for tricky starting so I reclocked it to the top right:



These little blowers come with plastic impellers and this is the sort of gap they have:



I installed the paddles from a kit I got on ebay. The kit came with self-drilling and threading screws and I just used them. I'll keep and eye on them and if I see them tearing out or otherwise being trouble I'll replace them with bolts and nylocks.



Big engine, little frame



The only snow we have right now is left-over piles from previous shoveling. It's been made wet and thick by the sun and warmth so I took the little blower for a few passes. I have to say I'm very impressed with the Rato/Predator. It's making a ton of torque and runs so cleanly. Running through the thick stuff I'd estimate it threw outliers to 35-45 feet with no discernable loading on the engine. Keep in mind this is a small-diameter impeller so I'm very, very impressed overall.

I could even put the original belt cover back on:



I used and AK28x3/4 sheave for the auger with the OE 26" belt. I used an AK26x3/4 sheave for the traction drive and a 22" belt there (which I believe is the OE length.)

The engine was mounted with 3/8"x1-1/2 Gr5 bolts. I needed to dremel out the engine's mounting holes slightly to clear these fasteners though they slipped through the frame holes just fine. Under the bolt head I used ZP split lockwashers and on top I used flat washers and low-profile (0.268") nylock nuts.

Gotta keep an eye on the pulleys and shaft. I don't dig that the only thing holding the pulleys to the shaft are the set screws on the key but it seems pretty secure so/ I'll just inspect them after each use and in the spring re-check the set screws etc...

Last edited by Blackfin; 02-20-2016 at 03:13 PM.
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post #5 of 9 Old 02-20-2016, 10:23 PM
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I think I would change those bolts out for something with a washer and a nut on the back side. Maybe even step up to cutting out some small metal plates that fit under there. I believe on Clarence's web site (the guy that made the impeller kits famous), he even says not recommended for plastic impellers.

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post #6 of 9 Old 02-20-2016, 10:27 PM Thread Starter
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I think I would change those bolts out for something with a washer and a nut on the back side. Maybe even step up to cutting out some small metal plates that fit under there. I believe on Clarence's web site (the guy that made the impeller kits famous), he even says not recommended for plastic impellers.
Yeah, in the hours since I did this I've been thinking about them and will likely move in this direction. I've got a spare impeller here and will mock something up on it and retrofit it. The plastic is very tough stuff but it isn't steel-tough so I doubt the threads in it will last long.
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post #7 of 9 Old 02-20-2016, 10:34 PM
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Yeah, in the hours since I did this I've been thinking about them and will likely move in this direction. I've got a spare impeller here and will mock something up on it and retrofit it. The plastic is very tough stuff but it isn't steel-tough so I doubt the threads in it will last long.
I would be more concerned with the end of the blades shattering than with the threads pulling out. Maybe the plastic is pretty thick though. Might be good as long as it is reinforced enough.

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post #8 of 9 Old 02-21-2016, 08:10 AM Thread Starter
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I would be more concerned with the end of the blades shattering than with the threads pulling out. Maybe the plastic is pretty thick though. Might be good as long as it is reinforced enough.
It's one of these:



There's lots of ribbing in behind each paddle. I've got the screws between the ribs. The plastic itself is pretty tough; in this pic:



you can see the slot where one of the two roll pins from the auger shaft directly engage the plastic hub. If the plastic can take that it should be okay to deal with the paddles.

Having said that, I'm not sure if the screw threads directly in the plastic will last as the material isn;t terribly thick; that's my biggest worry. I've got a spare if need be (thanks, eBay). I'd also consider designing my own out of steel and having the parts laser cut and welded by a local shop. Of course I haven't actually priced this yet and could be in for a surprise...
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post #9 of 9 Old 02-21-2016, 10:35 AM
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Honestly, that doesn't look too special. I bet you could find a used metal impeller that will work with very little modification. At most maybe just drill new holes in the metal impeller for the roll pins.

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