Help with a re-power for an Ariens 924044 - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
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post #1 of 51 Old 01-31-2016, 06:16 PM Thread Starter
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Help with a re-power for an Ariens 924044

So like everyone else who gets an old snow blower that doesn't run, I immediately find this place, find all the threads from you guys that make it look super easy and dive right into a re-power and run into issues. lol

Machine is a big wheel 32" 924044. Original engine was a Tecumseh 10HP HM 100. I originally planned to go with a predator 301, but I'm finding that the mounting base on the blower is only 8.25" wide and the predator base is 8.75" wide. The absolute shortest width between mounting holes on the engine is a hair under 8.25", so I might be able to get away with drilling the mounting holes at the very ends of the mounting base, but there will be some over hang of the motor base. So in addition to the mounting issue, I'm also concerned with the chute controls being totally obstructed by the 301. So I'm wondering whether the smaller 212 would be enough engine to power the machine or not? That would at least solve my issue of mounting the new engine.

Any help, pics, etc is welcome. Thanks.

Last edited by bndawgs; 01-31-2016 at 06:19 PM.
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post #2 of 51 Old 01-31-2016, 06:47 PM
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I repowered a 924038 7hp Tec with a 291cc LCT snow engine. Had the same issue with the width of the engine base being at the angle drop off of the tractor body. I made a steel plate to size for the base of the engine. Marked the engine mount holes with the engine onboard for a rough alignment. Drilled, tapped and welded studs for the engine mounts. I then aligned the engine as precise as I could get with sheaves on and marked up under the tractor body to the bottom of the plate. Drilled, tapped and welded studs on the plate bottom. Nylocs and washers with loctite all around. Now the engine can be removed and the original Tec can still be put back on the tractor with four nuts removed. Some have welded the plate onto the tractor body top surface.
I had to cut and grind my original studs away, some have been able to knock them out with BFH.

Last edited by jtclays; 01-31-2016 at 06:49 PM.
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post #3 of 51 Old 01-31-2016, 06:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bndawgs View Post
So like everyone else who gets an old snow blower that doesn't run, I immediately find this place, find all the threads from you guys that make it look super easy and dive right into a re-power and run into issues. lol

Machine is a big wheel 32" 924044. Original engine was a Tecumseh 10HP HM 100. I originally planned to go with a predator 301, but I'm finding that the mounting base on the blower is only 8.25" wide and the predator base is 8.75" wide. The absolute shortest width between mounting holes on the engine is a hair under 8.25", so I might be able to get away with drilling the mounting holes at the very ends of the mounting base, but there will be some over hang of the motor base. So in addition to the mounting issue, I'm also concerned with the chute controls being totally obstructed by the 301. So I'm wondering whether the smaller 212 would be enough engine to power the machine or not? That would at least solve my issue of mounting the new engine.

Any help, pics, etc is welcome. Thanks.
I have a Predator 212cc on a 26 inch wide Montgomery Ward and it works well but your blower bucket is 6 inches wider. It may struggle a bit in really deep snow with the Predator 212cc. The 301cc extra torque and HP would be better suited to handle the 32 inch bucket width. Post some pictures of the blower and how the orginal engine fits on it and where the chute turning hardware is in relation to the original engine.
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post #4 of 51 Old 01-31-2016, 08:23 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jtclays View Post
I repowered a 924038 7hp Tec with a 291cc LCT snow engine. Had the same issue with the width of the engine base being at the angle drop off of the tractor body. I made a steel plate to size for the base of the engine. Marked the engine mount holes with the engine onboard for a rough alignment. Drilled, tapped and welded studs for the engine mounts. I then aligned the engine as precise as I could get with sheaves on and marked up under the tractor body to the bottom of the plate. Drilled, tapped and welded studs on the plate bottom. Nylocs and washers with loctite all around. Now the engine can be removed and the original Tec can still be put back on the tractor with four nuts removed. Some have welded the plate onto the tractor body top surface.
I had to cut and grind my original studs away, some have been able to knock them out with BFH.

do you happen to have any pics of the new mount? that's definitely an idea i didnt' think about trying. i'm not sure if i can find anyone that can weld, so i would have to probably rely on bolts, etc.
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post #5 of 51 Old 02-01-2016, 08:46 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GustoGuy View Post
I have a Predator 212cc on a 26 inch wide Montgomery Ward and it works well but your blower bucket is 6 inches wider. It may struggle a bit in really deep snow with the Predator 212cc. The 301cc extra torque and HP would be better suited to handle the 32 inch bucket width. Post some pictures of the blower and how the orginal engine fits on it and where the chute turning hardware is in relation to the original engine.

here's a pic of the chute crank with the original motor



and with the new motor set it place
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post #6 of 51 Old 02-01-2016, 08:48 AM
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the air filter housing is an easy fix, just cut away the excess plastic. does the cast aluminum base of the engine fit on the frame
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post #7 of 51 Old 02-01-2016, 09:44 AM Thread Starter
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the air filter housing is an easy fix, just cut away the excess plastic. does the cast aluminum base of the engine fit on the frame

no. as you can see here not accounting for where the crank is sitting, there is a small amount of overhang. If i line up the crank with the old position, there is even more of an overhang to one side.


and the other side. again, just having the engine centered on the base plate.

Last edited by bndawgs; 02-01-2016 at 09:48 AM.
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post #8 of 51 Old 02-01-2016, 10:35 AM
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I only did this with the smaller 212cc, but as for chute control, maybe if you shorten that eyebolt it will bring it low enough? I also had to trim the plastic covering the carb. You will probably have to change the length of the rod/rods but with two universals you should be able to place it in a easy to access spot.
As for motor fit, Id either drill new holes at the very edges and hope it works out, or make a plate, hoping that dosent change the height too much. Good luck and keep us posted!
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post #9 of 51 Old 02-01-2016, 10:43 AM Thread Starter
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I only did this with the smaller 212cc, but as for chute control, maybe if you shorten that eyebolt it will bring it low enough? I also had to trim the plastic covering the carb. You will probably have to change the length of the rod/rods but with two universals you should be able to place it in a easy to access spot.
As for motor fit, Id either drill new holes at the very edges and hope it works out, or make a plate, hoping that dosent change the height too much. Good luck and keep us posted!
I'm leaning towards making a mounting plate similar to what jtclays did. that way, if the 301 doesn't work out, I can always go back to the original mounting base with something new.

I'm hoping that any change in height can be fixed with longer belts.
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post #10 of 51 Old 02-01-2016, 11:20 AM Thread Starter
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I'll also add that the motor base template in the 301 manual is way off. It's almost 2" shorter than the actual base of the motor
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