HELP! need advice for what to get done at a service - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
 
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post #1 of 6 Old 03-18-2019, 03:13 PM Thread Starter
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HELP! need advice for what to get done at a service

Tomorrow I deliver my 2011 Sipmplicity P1728EX to a big service. (no snowfall coming the next week)


This is what I will ask for:


- oil
- plug
- New belts (drive and auger) (belts are 8 years old and used hard)
- greasing of internal chains/cogs/parts that need grease. Adjustment of internal chains?


Should I ask for carburator cleaning and adjustment of anything?
I have noticed I do not need to use choke when using the electric start. Is that normal?


It has been working flawless, but yesterday I heard a small squeek when applying the auger. (from the belt)


Are cleaning the gas tank for possible dirt a part of a service? I have ran it out of fuel (empty) many times the last months)


Does the Powerboost need service?


Please give me some good advise


PS
I love this machine

2011 Simplicity P1728EX Signature Pro 342cc 11hp (at my house)
2014 Yamaha YT1070 (YT1028) 296cc 9.5 hp (at the cabin)
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post #2 of 6 Old 03-19-2019, 10:03 AM
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Good afternoon Dag,


If the shop you deal with knows what they are doing they will:

1.change the oil

2. drain the old gas out of the tank and the carburetor fuel bowl and check the tank to see how much crap is in it and remove it to clean it out and check to make sure the line from the tank is still good and if not change it and install a new fuel line(the new fuel lines with the woven reinforcement are the best ones to use as they resist the pressure gradient created by the carburetor when it draws fuel from the tank
a. remove the fuel bowl and check it for varnish and gum deposits and clean the carburetor if needed(most likely if they find gum and varnish and dirt in the fuel bowl)
b. there may be enough dirt and oil residue that they may wash the engine using a steam cleaner or degreaser(ugly stuff). I use dawn dish soap along with hydrogen peroxide or isopropyl alcohol to clean parts using small steel tooth brushes. Doing this assures the linkage arm for the check and throttle move freely and the springs are free of any debris and build up of dirt.
c. check the condition of the crankcase breather tube and if the rubber is cracked replace it as this is always best practice as the lip edges of the crankcase breather tube have weakened with age and you will have a lot of oil build up on that side of the engine.

3. change the fuel filter if they have the very large pleated fuel filters they are the best ones(but you may not have room for one so they may replace it with one of the disc type(wire mesh) filters

4. properly gap a new spark plug and install it
a. do a compression test to check the combustion chambers operating pressure to check for a blown head gasket or if the valves need adjustment
b. if the compression test is low they will check the valve clearances and if they need to be adjusted adjust them.


5.check the V belts to see if they are glazed and if so replace them.

6. check the linkages and lubricate them to assure they throw/move properly to the various speed ranges and or to activate the snow blower and auger.
a. you may have spring that aids in holding the snubber pulley in place and they need to assure it is applying the correct tension to pull the snubber pulley back.

7. inspect the rubber disc drive tire and if it is worn. This is indicated by glazed rubber/cracked rubber and replace it
a. clean the V belt pulley where the drive tire contacts it using a scrubber pad and some isopropyl alcohol

8. check the tire pressure and tire sidewalls closely to see if they are cracked or bulging(have air bubbles in the sidewalls and if so call you and tell you that you need new tires if you expect to keep it.

a. When you get it home you need to block it up so the tires do not become flat spotted during the off season months and to assure the tire beads stay seated and you can do this by stuffing some bricks or old lumber under the belly of the simplicity to elevate it above the floor

I hope I have not forgotten anything.

SKOAL
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post #3 of 6 Old 03-19-2019, 11:27 AM Thread Starter
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Hehe, Skål :-)


I will print this and discuss in detail With the repairshop. This will secure a long good life for my beloved Simplicity and I thank you for that! Thank you for a great help.


All the best, Dag

2011 Simplicity P1728EX Signature Pro 342cc 11hp (at my house)
2014 Yamaha YT1070 (YT1028) 296cc 9.5 hp (at the cabin)
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post #4 of 6 Old 03-19-2019, 11:27 AM
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I agree with Leonz. If you trust the shop, you should ask about all that he listed. A well used machine needs a thorough checking of all components.

I would also add:
- checking the shear bolts (if you have them) and ensuring the augers spin freely on the shaft.
- removing wheels and greasing the shaft to ensure the wheels don't rust to the shaft.

Paul
----------------------------------------------------------------
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post #5 of 6 Old 03-19-2019, 11:53 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paulm12 View Post
I agree with Leonz. If you trust the shop, you should ask about all that he listed. A well used machine needs a thorough checking of all components.

I would also add:
- checking the shear bolts (if you have them) and ensuring the augers spin freely on the shaft.
- removing wheels and greasing the shaft to ensure the wheels don't rust to the shaft.

Thank you very much! I will make sure all Points are taken care of, the machine will be good as New


Dag

2011 Simplicity P1728EX Signature Pro 342cc 11hp (at my house)
2014 Yamaha YT1070 (YT1028) 296cc 9.5 hp (at the cabin)
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post #6 of 6 Old 03-29-2019, 03:24 PM Thread Starter
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s|1

According to the workshop, good as new.
And that is pretty awesome I think, some Pictures without much snow. More will come
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2011 Simplicity P1728EX Signature Pro 342cc 11hp (at my house)
2014 Yamaha YT1070 (YT1028) 296cc 9.5 hp (at the cabin)
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