Starting to fix up 860--weak points? - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
 
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post #1 of 6 Old 10-15-2019, 10:37 PM Thread Starter
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Starting to fix up 860--weak points?

I have two of these: 1691376 004388, and 1691023 008433 One is pretty much a parts machine.



The main differences I see are that one has an interlock between the traction control and the auger control. On the other the two are independent.


The auger gearbox doesn't seem very substantial, compared to other old blowers I've messed with. And, there is no provision for changing the oil or grease (which is it?). There is just a fill plug for adding lube.


So, what should I be paying attention to, aside from the obvious like belts and idlers?


Thanks for suggestions.
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post #2 of 6 Old 10-15-2019, 11:27 PM
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Start with the basics ... Engine, run?? Tune -up.... Does unit operate or function properly? What is broke or not working? Does it have lawn tires?



Cast auger gearbox or clam shell aluminum? Usually the cast run a multi gear oil and the clam shell run 00 grease.


You might also want to go and search out a manual for repair parts information.


You also want to make sure the safety shear pins/bolts are actually shear, and not reg.


You want to also make sure the Augers spin freely, and not rust welded, or you probably have gearbox damage.


Without looking and going through the machine, real hard to diagnose.
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post #3 of 6 Old 10-16-2019, 01:46 AM
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Which one is the parts machine???
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post #4 of 6 Old 10-16-2019, 02:07 AM Thread Starter
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I wrote answers to the above but it seems to have disappeared. Not sure what I did wrong.
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post #5 of 6 Old 10-16-2019, 02:26 AM
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In regards to Auger gear case:

I use gear oil in mine no Grease and have no issues....Must make sure it is GL5 I believe.....non yellow metal eating brand.

I use a valvoline durablend synthetic 80w90.... says it is does not eat yellow metal(brass).


Make sure the jack shaft that the fristion disc runs on moves smooth and free.....move shift from reverse to 5th gear does it move smoothly.....does friction disc move left to right or not at all??? Lubricate that jack shaft. Cover Friction wheel(Weldment pulley) when lubricating shaft with a good low temp grease.

Remove pins from wheels and see if wheels are free and not rusted to their axles.....If free but rust...run some sand paper or Abrasive Cloth Roll to clean axles and then put motor oil on shafts before putting wheels back on....

As Oneacer said do your augers spin freely on their shafts...Remove shear pins and check they spin free if not get them loose. Spinning free!!!! Always check at beggining and end of season and middle as well of season.

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post #6 of 6 Old 10-16-2019, 01:56 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for suggestions!


The parts machine is the 1691376 004388.


Am I correct that the first sequence is the model number and the second is the serial number?


If so, the later machine would be the 1691023 008433?


I wonder why they dropped the control interlocks. It seems a nice feature.


The better machine has free auger flights. It was the first think I looked for as the other one has one side rusted on and would take some major heating and pounding to get loose.


Worm gears are known to be high friction and sensitive to having the right olubrication. I have some mobile SHC 634 which was bought for the worm gearbox of a bandsaw. Thinking of using that. It's "synthetic" and was expensive. It's ISO VG 460. I don't know offhand how to translate that.


Unlike my old Toro with a similar Briggs engine, these have primers. But these engines, for me, usually start on the second pull with just the choke.



Anybody have opinions on what belts are best for this use? Looks like the traction belt is a 3/8 and the auger belt is a 1/2.


Thanks!
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