New Member with an Old Simplcity S4 - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
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post #1 of 45 Old 10-16-2015, 07:41 PM Thread Starter
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New Member with an Old Simplcity S4

Hello everyone, I'm new to the forums.

I've been looking for an old Simplicity for a year or so now, I think the are fascinating looking machines and the old stuff is very cool. Well one went up for sale for $50 nearby and I decided to pounce on it.

Its a Simplcity S4. The tag says 006836 and the Briggs engine is 100202 0180-01 7205247, so that puts it at May 24, 1972.

The owner said it hadn't be run in a few years, although it did cough over when he shot starting fluid in the carburetor. It had old gas in it so I was ready for a fun time.

I got it home and looked at the tank more closely after emptying it. This is what greeted me:



Worse than what I thought. I fix lawn mowers as a hobby but I've got no spare parts for snowblowers. I decided to try saving the tank. Initially I was going to try Evap-O-Rust, which I have used but to takes quite a while. I've heard of using gravel to break the rust loose, but to me that wouldn't solve the underlying problem. Then I saw a video where the guy used Muriatic Acid and in about ten minutes his rusty tank looked nearly new. I found out that my local hardware store carries Acid Magic, which is a muriatic acid replacement and much safer for your skin (supposedly won't harm skin, but I wore protective gear anyway). I filled the tank all the way up and let it sit for a half hour, drained it, then filled it about halfway and let it sit a bit longer, agitating occasionally. I'll have to get some photos, because the difference is incredible.The tank is almost all bare metal inside with only a few small black spots remaining. I couldn't believe how well it worked.

I cleaned the carburetor up and replaced the diaphragm , and replaced the old spark plug.

At this point, with the choke pulled out, it seems to want to cold start first pull and I've actually had it running for a few seconds before it died. I haven't been able to get t to stay running though. I'm not sure if I need to go back and clean the carburetor out some more, or perhaps I put the linkages back on wrong or something.

I've run into another minor problem. The recoil broke. I figured it would have been the spring but it turns out the aluminum pulley broke where the spring is held in place. I'll have to get a new one, hopefully the small engine shop has them in stock.

I really want to get this running and then get it cleaned up. Its in really good shape I think, very little rust except for some in front of the chute which i plan to touch up. It's a super solid machine, built like and weighs as much as tank. I am curious how this single stage snowblower performs in the snow. If I get it running well then I'll find out soon enough.

Anyway, a few photos!





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post #2 of 45 Old 10-16-2015, 08:01 PM
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I have heard that after you clean the tanks like that you need to use some kind of sealer on them or else they will rust right back up.

If the flywheel has a large nut on it and you are careful you could get away with drill starting it.

Please direct all snow blower questions to the forums and not to me with PMs.
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post #3 of 45 Old 10-16-2015, 08:04 PM
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Welcome from the mitten state That is one cool Looking Simplicity, I have never thought of using Muriatic acid to clean out a old tank. Thanks for sharing that tip.
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post #4 of 45 Old 10-16-2015, 08:13 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shryp View Post
I have heard that after you clean the tanks like that you need to use some kind of sealer on them or else they will rust right back up.

If the flywheel has a large nut on it and you are careful you could get away with drill starting it.
Well the video I saw the guy recommended after rinsing it with water then gasoline to coat it in a bit of oil. What I did was after rinsing with water then gas, I rinsed with with my 2cycle gas mix and shook it up really good, then dumped and rinsed a couple more times with straight gas. There's currently only a bit of fuel in the tank but the sides are rust free a day later.
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post #5 of 45 Old 10-16-2015, 09:25 PM
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Welcome to SBF, and thanks for that great first post about your Simplicity. I've used muratic acid on tanks myself, and tried CLR on a few that aren't too badly rusted. I've done a three part system called Kreem that has worked well on motorcycle tanks.

I'm pretty much retired from the forum thing, but I check in every now and then.
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post #6 of 45 Old 10-17-2015, 03:22 PM
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ALOHA from the paradise city.

Long LIVE THE POWERSHIFT!! MAY IT NEVER RUST IN PEACE!!
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MAHALO!!!!!!!!!
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post #7 of 45 Old 10-17-2015, 04:01 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks!

Here's a what the inside of the gas tank looks like now:

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post #8 of 45 Old 10-20-2015, 07:19 PM Thread Starter
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I was kinda mad today. I had looked up the engine and got a part number for the starter pulley. Called and had the small engine shop set it aside, grabbed it after work, got home, took the blower housing off, only to discover that the new pulley is way to big! By then I didn't have time to go back to the shop before they closed, so now it will have to wait until tomorrow. >:/

With that plan down the drain, I decided to pull the carburetor and go through it again. I had forgot to remove the jet and clean it, so I figured I might as well go over it again. Turns out I missed some passages and by the time I was done I had a brown stained carb spray on the rag under the carburetor. Hopefully it will start and run this time. Since I wasn't going to be able to try tonight, instead I cleaned off the tank, cap air filter housing, and breather rube then paint them with engine paint. I'll have some photos tomorrow but the parts look so much better now. I plan to paint the blower housing too once the pulley is reinstalled and the machine is running.
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post #9 of 45 Old 10-23-2015, 06:17 PM Thread Starter
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I discovered there was still some rust at the top of the tank and it was flaking off, so I used WD-40 Rust Remover (similar product to Evapo-Rust) and soaked the tank overnight upside down in a bucket Rinsed it really well then put the tank and carburetor back together.





Put it back on the motor...wouldn't start. Took the new plug I had put in out and found it was black, so I cleaned it and sprayed a shot of carb spray in there. Took a while but it finally started and ran. Had to shut it off because I realized I had forgotten to tighten the carburetor mounting bolts. Oops! Started it back up and adjusted the carb, and it runs great! No smoke, and runs smooth. To my delight, everything works on it! Very happy with the results.

I cleaned it up a bit, its really not in bad shape at all, most of the paint is still decent besides in front of the chute, which I'll touch up. Going to repaint the blower housing before putting all of the covers back on. The only real problem I can see using this machine is that you have to remove the two covers to fill the gas tank, and with the gas can I have, I need to remove the filter to have barely enough room to fit the spout in. Can't have it all I guess. :P









Going to show how overbuilt these old machines are, I count three grease fittings on it. Seems like it was greased regularly as all three had grease covering the fittings.

By the way, what weight oil do these old Briggs engines use? 5w30?

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post #10 of 45 Old 10-24-2015, 02:39 PM Thread Starter
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Tried to cold start it today, fired up on the first pull.
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