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post #1 of 12 Old 10-30-2015, 12:57 AM Thread Starter
Jnz
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Revive Old Blower

I was handed down what appears to be an early 70s sno away 24" 5hp, but cannot comfirm as either the plates were painted over or taken off to paint. However, the problem is that it will not cold start without starting fluid, you can pull for days without it and nothing. Once you start it with a little burst of starting fluid, it fires right up and stays running and further warm starts are no problem. This is the first tube style carberator i'll call it that ive seen. I pulled it off and took it apart and all the insides were clean. I still went ahead and cleaned it with carb cleaner and ran wire through the passages. It does not seem like there is much to go wrong with this style of carb as there is little there. The only removable parts it has is a side cover with a rubber diaphram which appears to be in good shape, and a spring below that. The jet is clean, and the one adjuster and needle look perfect. I set that adjuster to 1.5 turns out. Its back together after the cleaning, but still the same symptoms. Plug is also clean. Any tips to get away from the starting fluid?
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post #2 of 12 Old 10-30-2015, 01:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jnz View Post
I was handed down what appears to be an early 70s sno away 24" 5hp, but cannot comfirm as either the plates were painted over or taken off to paint. However, the problem is that it will not cold start without starting fluid, you can pull for days without it and nothing. Once you start it with a little burst of starting fluid, it fires right up and stays running and further warm starts are no problem. This is the first tube style carberator i'll call it that ive seen. I pulled it off and took it apart and all the insides were clean. I still went ahead and cleaned it with carb cleaner and ran wire through the passages. It does not seem like there is much to go wrong with this style of carb as there is little there. The only removable parts it has is a side cover with a rubber diaphram which appears to be in good shape, and a spring below that. The jet is clean, and the one adjuster and needle look perfect. I set that adjuster to 1.5 turns out. Its back together after the cleaning, but still the same symptoms. Plug is also clean. Any tips to get away from the starting fluid?
I would put a bulb type primer in it that actually squirts gasoline into the throat of the carburetor. Starting fluid is not good since it can wash the protective film of oil off the cylinder wall and that can lead to engine damage. A bulb type primer will take gas from the tank and put it in the throat of the carburetor which will hopefully make for much easier starting.
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post #3 of 12 Old 10-30-2015, 06:58 AM
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Is there a choke mechanism on the carburetor? There should be!

If you're familiar with Tecumseh-style carbs, the Briggs choke setup is a bit different. The Tecs have a butterfly at the carb inlet, the Briggs have a sliding "plug" type setup. Sometimes it's manually actuated by a little tab you pull on, on others it's rigged to the throttle linkage.

Anyhow, if there's a choke, make sure it's closing. If you don't see a choke mechanism at all, post a photo of the end of the carb (where the air cleaner attaches, but from the side not the top) and maybe we can figure out what's going on.

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post #4 of 12 Old 10-30-2015, 09:46 AM
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Originally Posted by GustoGuy View Post
I would put a bulb type primer in it that actually squirts gasoline into the throat of the carburetor. Starting fluid is not good since it can wash the protective film of oil off the cylinder wall and that can lead to engine damage. A bulb type primer will take gas from the tank and put it in the throat of the carburetor which will hopefully make for much easier starting.
It actually applies air pressure to the fuel bowl to force the fuel up through the jets into the throat. The problem with adding one is you need to have the passage and nipple on the carb to attach the hose. Small nipple shown in photo.

BUT ... if it's a fifteen-twenty dollar ebay carb it might be worth it for easier starting in the cold weather.
(EDIT: Sorry, just looked at your photos. Getting a replacement with a primer passage isn't likely on that style carb.)

I'm with Gustoguy in thinking that using starting fluid as the norm for starting is going to be hard on the engine.
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post #5 of 12 Old 10-30-2015, 09:52 AM
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Can you post the engine numbers ??

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post #6 of 12 Old 10-30-2015, 09:58 AM
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Putting a primer bulb on that carb would be darn near impossible.

It has no float bowl! There's a little chamber in the top of the fuel tank that holds fuel for the carb, but it's not sealed because there are openings at the top. That's how that setup works... there's no float, the fuel level is controlled by fuel spilling out of those openings (into the main tank) when it reaches their level. There's a page that explains how it works here: PULSA- JET CAR BURETORS

Because of those openings, attempting to pressurize the chamber as a primer bulb does wouldn't work.

~1994 Ariens 924084 (ST1032) "papa bear": restored, re-engined, real nice!
1991 Ariens 924050 (ST824) "mama bear"
Toro PowerCurve 1800 "baby bear"

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post #7 of 12 Old 10-30-2015, 10:05 AM
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Here's a page that shows the choke mechanisms on that type of carb... there are 2 different kinds: Disassembly, Cleaning and Repair of Briggs Tank-mounted Pulsa-jet Adjustable Carburetor

~1994 Ariens 924084 (ST1032) "papa bear": restored, re-engined, real nice!
1991 Ariens 924050 (ST824) "mama bear"
Toro PowerCurve 1800 "baby bear"

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post #8 of 12 Old 10-30-2015, 10:34 AM
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Putting a primer bulb on that carb would be darn near impossible.

It has no float bowl!
Because of those openings, attempting to pressurize the chamber as a primer bulb does wouldn't work.
Totally agree, I should have looked at the photos before opening my mouth.

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post #9 of 12 Old 10-30-2015, 11:45 PM
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There's probably a choke at the end of the carburetor you need to pull out to cold start it. If you've done that and still have problems, the carburetor probably could use a good cleaning followed by replacing of the diaphragm and mounting gasket. After that its a matter of tuning the carburetor with the adjusting screw. Took me a little while but I went from a rusted out gas tank and corroded bottom end of the carburetor to a machine that so far starts first pull each time I've tried.
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post #10 of 12 Old 12-26-2017, 04:39 PM
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I've used starter fluid for fifty years and never seen any ill effects...the secret is to just give it a sniff....
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