LED Lights Keep Blowing.. help! - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
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post #1 of 20 Old 01-13-2016, 05:03 PM Thread Starter
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LED Lights Keep Blowing.. help!

Hi all,
This is my first post, hopefully I can get my problem solved with your help.

I have a Simplicity 1738 Snow Blower with a Briggs and Straton 21M414 engine.

I bought a couple of 12 volt LED flood lights on ebay that are similar to these:
Wall Flood Light 10W 12V AC DC Warm White LED Replace Waterproof Garden Outdoor | eBay

They ran fine the first time I used the machine, when I went back to use it a second time, both lights failed to work.. One of them had a small dim flicker for while but the other was totally dark.

Due to the fact that I illuminate my workshop with LED lights that I build myself, I had a dozen extra 12 watt chips laying around and it just so happened they were the exact same thing as what's inside that ebay flood light.

So, I took the light apart and installed the new chips.. just to add an extra layer of protection, I also installed a resistor to throttle the power back to about 8 watts which is 80% of what they are rated for. (I never run my LED's I build to their max as it shortens the life).

So, I installed the lights back on the snowblower and they barely worked for an hour and both lights are burned out again.

PS. The snow blower is supposed to be a 12 volt system and we don't have any flicker in the LED's as some say they have so ours are wired direct without any rectifier.

Any ideas? I wouldn't think vibration would do it would it?
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post #2 of 20 Old 01-13-2016, 06:25 PM
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admittedly dont know much bout " lectricity". but have you looked at this sticky?
https://www.snowblowerforum.com/forum...ed-lights.html

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post #3 of 20 Old 01-13-2016, 06:59 PM
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Often dirty-DC produced by small engines does those LEDs in. (when testing the stator output with your multimeter, AC should be zero volts).

are you able to determine whether or not the stator has a single-diode for rectification? If so, ditch that and upgrade to a full-wave / bridge rectifier with a big smoothing cap. That link provided by nwcove has more details than you'll ever need.

Also, are you using a switch? Switches for these circuits are really tricky due to the excessive no-load voltage...when you flip that switch you quickly overdrive the component to failure if you don't have a voltage regulator.


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post #4 of 20 Old 01-13-2016, 08:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MurBob View Post
Hi all,
This is my first post, hopefully I can get my problem solved with your help.

I have a Simplicity 1738 Snow Blower with a Briggs and Straton 21M414 engine.

I bought a couple of 12 volt LED flood lights on ebay that are similar to these:
Wall Flood Light 10W 12V AC DC Warm White LED Replace Waterproof Garden Outdoor | eBay

They ran fine the first time I used the machine, when I went back to use it a second time, both lights failed to work.. One of them had a small dim flicker for while but the other was totally dark.

Due to the fact that I illuminate my workshop with LED lights that I build myself, I had a dozen extra 12 watt chips laying around and it just so happened they were the exact same thing as what's inside that ebay flood light.

So, I took the light apart and installed the new chips.. just to add an extra layer of protection, I also installed a resistor to throttle the power back to about 8 watts which is 80% of what they are rated for. (I never run my LED's I build to their max as it shortens the life).

So, I installed the lights back on the snowblower and they barely worked for an hour and both lights are burned out again.

PS. The snow blower is supposed to be a 12 volt system and we don't have any flicker in the LED's as some say they have so ours are wired direct without any rectifier.

Any ideas? I wouldn't think vibration would do it would it?
Need a bit more info on the engine in your machine. There are several more numbers, and possibly a final pair with a letter and number.

Briggs has pile of different alternator options for engines. I looked at ereplacementparts.com and the first page shows about 6 different possibilities for yours.

Do you happen have an engine manual/parts list for your specific engine? If so, it should list the alternator part number which you can compare with the attached link, and then go from there.

If you do not have an engine parts list, you can match up the power plug plug out of your engine to the correct picture in the chart, then you will know if you have AC, or DC, ( some of the DC units are an AC coil with a diode built in at the plug which gives you half wave rectified DC, which is kind of crappy power, but works for halogen bulbs. The chart also gives you current capacity. The plugs and wires are all colour coded, and different styles so it should not be too hard, unless they have added stuff since this chart was published.

https://www.smallenginesuppliers.com...ator_chart.pdf

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post #5 of 20 Old 01-14-2016, 04:06 AM
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I have tried those, static mounted in the Lair (indoors, 12v sun powered system) and mine blew too, 3 of 5 within weeks. Same failure mode, junk. No chance on an outdoor mobile application imo.

Blown:



More heavy duty ftw. Amazon.com: TMS LED-XT-18W30D-K 18W 1260LM CREE Spot Led Work Light Bar Black for off-Road SUV Boat 4x4 Jeep, 2 Piece: Automotive

On the Yanmar now, not much run time but definitely better quality and more suitable for outdoor/mobile use.


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post #6 of 20 Old 01-14-2016, 07:17 AM
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cheap junk, no doubt
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post #7 of 20 Old 01-14-2016, 07:35 AM
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This is a bit OT but I'm curious: has anyone else ever measured the current draw of their LED lights?

I bought some of these for my snowblowers:


They're claimed to have 3x 2W LEDs and if I recall my first-grade math that should be 6 watts.

When I power them from a 12V regulated supply, they draw about 325 milliamps or 0.325 amp. 12 volts times 0.325 amps is 3.9 watts... a far cry from 6!

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post #8 of 20 Old 01-14-2016, 07:55 AM
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Probably rated at operating battery voltage which is closer to 14.3 Volts. Rating of 2Watts is also maximum output. They wouldn't last long if you powered them at maximum output.

Now for the 12 volt LEDs, you cannot install these on an unregulated 12 Volt. They do not like spikes or reverse voltage. Like mentioned before use an LED fixture with ratings like 9-30 VDC-AC. This means the fixture has a built-in regulator converter and will give you a very steady lumen output without flicker.

For example:


4 Inch 18W Cree LED Work Light Bar Lamp for Car Truck Off Road

Specification:

Operating Voltage: 10-30V DC
Waterproof rate: IP 67
Beam Pattern: Flood beam,Spot beam
Color Temperature: 6000K (pure white)
Material: Diecast aluminum housing
Lens material: PMMA lens
Mounting Bracket: Stainless Steel
Theoretical Lumens Output: 1400 LM
LED Power: 18W (6pcs*3w CREE high intensity LEDs )
( The Lumens and Power are theoretical values, if use equipment to measure, maybe less than this values. )


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Last edited by Coby7; 01-14-2016 at 11:44 AM.
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post #9 of 20 Old 01-14-2016, 08:03 AM
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I installed this one in 2014 and it's been working great for the price.

4 Inch 18W Cree LED Work Light Bar Lamp for Car Truck Off Road Sale-Banggood.com Even cheaper on amazon.com I see.

Just make sure you select the proper one for your use, because these come in flood and spot.


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Last edited by Coby7; 01-14-2016 at 09:12 AM.
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post #10 of 20 Old 01-14-2016, 11:47 AM
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I have the same ones. Bought a 4 pack shipped for 34 bucks on Ebay.

.
Make sure the windows are up before the snow plow goes by !!

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