Do I have to drain the oil.... - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
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post #1 of 18 Old 01-03-2017, 04:58 PM Thread Starter
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Question Do I have to drain the oil....

I have a Snapper model #1694604, 11327E, 11hp snowblower that needs to be turned up onto its service position for some maintenance. Not that it's a big deal to drain the old and refill with new oil but, is it absolutely necessary or can I leave it alone. I'm thinking that the oil will get places it does it doesn't belong. What do you guys make of this. Thanks in advance for your time and effort.

Allan
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post #2 of 18 Old 01-03-2017, 05:02 PM
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Leave it alone unless it is time for an oil change
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post #3 of 18 Old 01-03-2017, 06:16 PM
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Does the manufacturer make any mention of this? On some 4 stroke engines, if they are turned over a certain way the motor oil will get up past the piston rings and basically hydrolock the cylinder making it impossible to start. Until you remove the spark plug, and cycle the starter enough times to clear the cylinder of the excess motor oil.
A relative did this with an old Craftsman riding lawn mower. Turned it up to remove and sharpen the blade. Motor seemed hydrolocked (because it was). Called me up I came over and removed the plug, cranked it over enough to get the oil out. Replaced the plug and started it. The residual oil in the muffler ignited and shot a flame out the end of it! Exciting. So just be careful. It ran fine after that.

1998 Toro 3000 GTS with Suzuki 47p 2 cycle
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post #4 of 18 Old 01-03-2017, 06:22 PM
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Garage
i have never had an issue with the oil when a machine is on its snout. fuel level in the tank is another story.

24 " 1967? Ariens Sno thro
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post #5 of 18 Old 01-04-2017, 06:22 AM
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I dont drain oil when its face down. Just gas must be below half


-efisher-
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post #6 of 18 Old 01-04-2017, 10:32 AM
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Before I do any heavy duty work I make sure everything is empty. that way I don't have to clean up any after birth on the garage floor.

Long LIVE THE POWERSHIFT!! MAY IT NEVER RUST IN PEACE!!
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post #7 of 18 Old 01-04-2017, 10:54 AM
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Just in case you have to access the underbelly while the gas tank is more than full, one of my Tecumseh Manuals suggested placing two (2) thicknesses of Saran Wrap under the gas cap and screwing the cap down tight . . . . and this will prevent leakage while the unit is tipped.

I've done this successfully while servicing the unit for a few hours; but not for days !

I can't speak to how long it might take to decompose the plastic.
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post #8 of 18 Old 01-16-2017, 01:02 PM
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I'm with Powershift93, before I flip a snowblower on its nose, or a lawn mower on its side, I drain the gas and oil. Usually, that means run it out of gas and drain (change) the oil. Yes, some machines are laid out that some turning over might not spill any fluid ... but I don't like to chance it ... makes too much of a mess if you're wrong. Others have also mentioned there is a chance of hydrolock.

Besides, an extra oil change for your motor isn't a bad thing ... and most only take 16-20 ounces. If you want to be really cheap, you can capture the oil and pour it back in. However, the oil will have bits in it from the sump that you should not pour back in ... and the act of draining the oil also usually adds a few bits as well. Drain the oil through a cloth, coffee filter or the like before re-using ... and have some fresh oil standing by as you WILL lose some oil in the process and you won't have enough to completely refill the engine.

2011 Ariens 28 Deluxe
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post #9 of 18 Old 01-16-2017, 06:05 PM
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Great Discussion Guys, There isn't enough oil in most of today's engines to get past the rings and cause Hydro-Static lock. That would certainly be a consideration when the engineers designed a 'Service Position' to begin with. Lawn tractors are a different story (horizontal vs vertical cranks, plus, did he lay that tractor on it's hood?). The biggest issue with oil leaks I have, is when I pull 40 snow blowers in at night, and put them in "Service Position', some of the machines will leak a small amount of oil from the dipstick tube/fill tube. I use old disposable rubber gloves.... take the Dipstick out, push the stick through the old glove, then insert stick in tube and tighten down. Fuel usually isn't a problem, as most units are brought in empty or I have already drained the fuel and put a small amount back in. But the old gloves would work for that application also. GLuck, Jay
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post #10 of 18 Old 01-17-2017, 08:30 PM
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JayZAuto1, I never really thought about the path oil would take to get INTO the combustion chamber ... but that makes sense that hydrolock would be practically impossible.

I did, however, turn a push mower on its side when I was a teenager and most of the oil drained out (through the exhaust valve?) and severely damaged the main bearing when it was run.

2011 Ariens 28 Deluxe
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