Dynamark 8/26 gear oil? - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
 
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post #1 of 3 Old 01-06-2017, 11:55 PM Thread Starter
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Dynamark 8/26 gear oil?

I have a 1980 (going from the plastic carb float) Dynamark 8/26 that I've been going through. Seems like a well built machine, although the control mechanisms are a bit more involved than my other old Ariens. Getting ready to put the finishing touches on, it's currently up on the auger to change a belt, and thought it'd be nice to change the oil in the gear box while it was exposed. I don't see a clear drain or fill point though, and I had a...memorable...experience removing the wrong bolt on an unfamiliar trans to try to drain it one time so hoping someone else knows what's what.

Underside from straight on:


Right side:

The grooved/knurled piece looks promising. Bolt at read has a mirror image on opposite side so was thinking it hold an internal shaft in place.

Top/straight on:

Large bolt at top and small allen bolt at front maybe? But where would the drain be then?

So far I added a fuel filter and shut off, rebuilt the carb (had to seal a couple pinholes in the bowl with Toyota black FIPG, that was a stumper at first), got spark after adding an E3 plug and sanding and setting points, and will be putting on two new belts that just arrived, provided they fit.

Last edited by jbtvt; 01-07-2017 at 10:58 AM.
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post #2 of 3 Old 01-07-2017, 10:45 AM Thread Starter
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Any ideas what viscosity oil I need? Was thinking GL4-5 gear oil but maybe that's too thick for this application?
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post #3 of 3 Old 01-07-2017, 10:55 AM Thread Starter
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For future searcher's reference - last pic, large, low profile bolt under the gear is an oil fill. Gearbox needs to be in neutral for the hole in plate underneath to be exposed, don't move plate or you'll shift and throw off gears. Lining them up after is enough of a PITA as it is. Need to remove trans support to access. This case was bone dry, filled it 1/3 - 1/2 with 80w GL4. Greased all points underneath and closed up.

Belts are no longer available for this unit. Substitute belt part #s - 4L380 (38" x 1/2") for the auger and 9370/17370 (37 5/8" x 1/2") for wheels, it's notched but works.

Even Toyota black FIPG didn't stop the gas leak for long. Replacement Chinese carb (second one, first didn't have primer barb installed) leaked and didn't have the holes tapped for housing bracket, they stripped out after trying to get several screws in so just stole the bowl from that for the original.

Confirmed RPMs with Harbor Freight's <$30 photo tach. It's good, the Ariens might be running fast then.

Engine still isn't running great, combustion in the muffler every few seconds unless it's under load, then it's less frequent. But it works!

I like this machine, it's front-heavier then the Ariens so stays tight to the ground with less work and the gear ratios are better/lower, and reverse is a bit higher. Shifter is smooth as well, though fussy with positioning. I don't like that as soon as I release the drive lever the auger stops turning. Given the engine issues I'll probably go over the Ariens quickly and make that my primary.


Last edited by jbtvt; 01-07-2017 at 10:11 PM. Reason: Turning filler post, to post pics, into real post
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