repairing blown Tecumseh - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
 
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post #1 of 7 Old 02-05-2017, 10:02 AM Thread Starter
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repairing blown Tecumseh

Greetings friends......a few weeks ago I picked up a Ariens ST 8 24 in decent shape with a blown rod and hole in the block. I was stripping off the engine to repower it with a Predator and thought to look inside the Tecumseh to see how much damage was on the inside of the engine. Other then the case having a hole under the starter, the engine looked pretty good inside, governer OK. I cleaned up the block after stripping out the internals, and tapped the broken aluminum block back into some kind of shape with a ball peen, and smeared three light coats of JB weld over the cracks. I popped a new rod in, reassembled and the motor runs like new. I've idled the engine and run it at full throttle for several hours to see if the repair would hold, and no problems so far. The rod and gaskets were less then $40 on E-bay, and I'm not sure that it wouldn't have been easier, cheaper and better to repower with the Predator....but it was fun bringing the old Tec back.
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post #2 of 7 Old 02-05-2017, 10:30 AM
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We have a person locally who can weld aluminum and magnesium components, when all of the pieces are still present. I've used him on aluminum Lawnboy mowers, B&S Crankcases and Oil Sumps, and to repair cracked mag wheels for my car. If the JB Weld succumbs, you may want to locate someone with similar skills . . . . a handy person to have in your phonebook.
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post #3 of 7 Old 02-05-2017, 10:47 AM Thread Starter
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Actually I have a lot of experiance welding aluminum....I'm just to lazy LOL. A friend of mine fixes motorcycles for a living and turned me onto the JB Weld fix idea. He claimed he had great success repairing motorcycle crankcases with it. I just had to try out the idea....I'm confident it will hold up fine, and much easier then welding. I did grind the area well of paint and such before the repair.
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post #4 of 7 Old 02-05-2017, 11:24 AM
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Garage
Years ago I built a Triumph TR6 motorcycle, a basket case. Most of the parts were in plastic milk crates.
The exhaust ports on the head had a threaded piece that screwed into the head. The exhaust pipe then was clamped onto the smooth part protruding from the head. The heads where the piece screwed into were striped/wallerd out due to vibrating loose. Either buy new heads OR?

I JB welded them in place, worked.


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post #5 of 7 Old 02-05-2017, 11:32 AM Thread Starter
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I've been using JB Weld to glue magnets back in place on the Tecumseh flywheels....never a failure.
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post #6 of 7 Old 02-05-2017, 02:49 PM
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Surprisingly,I just watched an older video of Donyboy73 tearing down a customer's Tecumseh snowblower engine that had thrown a rod.When he pulled the electric starter,he found the block was spider cracked and slightly bulged.

He told the customer the bad news and what a shortblock was going to cost and they said to forget it.Dony wound up buying the blower.

He said he doesn't recommend repairing blocks to his customers,but if they ask him to try,he will(JB-Weld)-with no guarantees.I repaired one with JB and it's still going strong after quite a few years.

After buying the blower,he took the block to a welder friend(whom we've seen on his channel) and the guy successfully welded it.The welder stated that those aluminum blocks often CAN'T be welded because the motor oil penetrates the pores in the aluminum.Someone in the comments section mentioned the aluminum welding rods and Dony said he would have to try those-don't know if he ever did.
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post #7 of 7 Old 02-05-2017, 03:31 PM Thread Starter
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Even if I welded the block, I would want to smear JB Weld or a similar epoxy to seal any imperfections in the weld. I use a wire feed with gas shielding, and it does a great job, but not as good as a TIG. I routinely weld aluminum manifolds for Irrigation pumps and many times after the weld I get pin holes that squirt under pressure.. Sometimes I use a body hammer with a pick head and hammer next to the leak to seal it or a prick punch and hammer, sometimes liquid aluminum over the leak, sometimes JB weld. For just keeping oil from leaking out of the block not under pressure, I think JB Weld is the way to go. I'm thinking of trying to pop rivet a thin aluminum patch over a block that has a serious hole in it, then give three or four thin coats of JB over the whole patch and see how it goes. The block I have in mind may be too damaged inside.... got to pull it apart and check. I'm only doing this for the experience...I'd rather use a Predator.
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