Murray/NOMA F2794010 Won't Move After 3rd Gear - New Friction Disk Installed - Help! - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
 
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post #1 of 8 Old 02-10-2017, 10:25 AM Thread Starter
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Murray/NOMA F2794010 Won't Move After 3rd Gear - New Friction Disk Installed - Help!

Hello All,

I have an old NOMA, Murray model number F2794010. I installed a new Stens 240-068 over the summer since the blower had a hard time moving after 1st gear. I thought the friction disc was the issue, but even with the new disc, the blower won't move up an incline in 3rd gear or higher. Any thought on what may be causing the issue?

Thanks!
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post #2 of 8 Old 02-10-2017, 10:30 AM
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Belt might be slipping.
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post #3 of 8 Old 02-10-2017, 10:38 AM Thread Starter
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Belt might be slipping.
How does the belt come into play here? The friction disk is slipping on the drive friction wheel. Is there an adjustment that can be made to the drive friction wheel?
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post #4 of 8 Old 02-10-2017, 11:03 AM
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The Belt powers the Drive Plate, which the Friction wheel runs off of. There should be some kind of adjustment to tighten the friction wheel. Follow the Actuating Rod, or Cable, as the case may be, and look for an adjuster. Pull the belt cover, and make sure the drive belt is tight.
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post #5 of 8 Old 02-10-2017, 11:42 AM
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Along the same line of thought as Jack, if the platter that runs off the engine belt doesn't spin all the time, the friction disc gets no power to wheels. I think that model has 2 piece sheaves off the engine crankshaft. If they have integral keys, they frequently break which would cause the sheave to slip on the crank, belt doesn't spin (although there may be enough residual friction from rust to engage in lower speeds). Could be the spring that pressures the idler against the belt to drive the platter has lost tension or in wrong holes. On that model it looks like the platter and drive pulley pivot as a whole when the engagement is pulled, so the platter comes to the friction wheel, not the friction wheel to the platter. Like Jack suggested, look up in the belly while using the engagement handle to trace the cable or lever that accomplishes that. With the belt cover off try running the machine while holding it back until the wheels stop. If you see the belt stop or pause, the sheave or key may be bad. If the belt (and platter) are still spinning the platter is not getting to the rubber wheel.
Scroll down to see your model parts break down here:
https://partsandservice.com/html/search/F/F-02.html
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post #6 of 8 Old 02-10-2017, 01:37 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by jtclays View Post
Along the same line of thought as Jack, if the platter that runs off the engine belt doesn't spin all the time, the friction disc gets no power to wheels. I think that model has 2 piece sheaves off the engine crankshaft. If they have integral keys, they frequently break which would cause the sheave to slip on the crank, belt doesn't spin (although there may be enough residual friction from rust to engage in lower speeds). Could be the spring that pressures the idler against the belt to drive the platter has lost tension or in wrong holes. On that model it looks like the platter and drive pulley pivot as a whole when the engagement is pulled, so the platter comes to the friction wheel, not the friction wheel to the platter. Like Jack suggested, look up in the belly while using the engagement handle to trace the cable or lever that accomplishes that. With the belt cover off try running the machine while holding it back until the wheels stop. If you see the belt stop or pause, the sheave or key may be bad. If the belt (and platter) are still spinning the platter is not getting to the rubber wheel.
Scroll down to see your model parts break down here:
https://partsandservice.com/html/search/F/F-02.html
Thank you! I appropriate the info. I'll try to see if I can find the issue after work!
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post #7 of 8 Old 02-10-2017, 01:38 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jackmels View Post
The Belt powers the Drive Plate, which the Friction wheel runs off of. There should be some kind of adjustment to tighten the friction wheel. Follow the Actuating Rod, or Cable, as the case may be, and look for an adjuster. Pull the belt cover, and make sure the drive belt is tight.
Thank you! I'll look at it in a few hours.
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post #8 of 8 Old 02-10-2017, 02:36 PM
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also take a look at the bearings on the ends of the hex shaft. If they are bad, you won't get much pressure on the rubber drive disk from the aluminum drive plate. Grab the shaft and see if it has any side play at either end. Parts on drawing are 230 and 255

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Last edited by skutflut; 02-22-2017 at 04:36 PM.
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