Mastercraft 10-33 Rescue Project - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
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post #1 of 33 Old 11-02-2017, 10:49 AM Thread Starter
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Mastercraft 10-33 Rescue Project

History:

My previous tenants at the farm left this blower behind. I told the next tenants they could use it. They couldn't get it to run and decided they needed the garage space for more"important" items. So the blower sat outside under a pine tree for 3years. Now that those tenants have also left, I decided not to give the blower to the new tenants. I brought the blower back to my place and will attemptto bring it back to winter ready condition.

Progress:

The tenants had told me that it would run but then stall. I figured the first step will have to be a carb cleaning. I could see that the throttle flap was seized and would not move freely. I took the carb apart and cleaned it. I decided to use the air compressor to blow outsome debris; in doing so the inlet needle seat flew out of the carb and is since missing. I also found out that the carb bowl had a small hole in it.Between getting a new needle and seat kit and the bowl it was cheaper to just buy a Chinese carb of EBay. Once I installed the carb it started easily on the first pull.

To Do List:

Glowing Muffler - Once I had it up and running with the new carb after a few minutes I noticed something glowing inside the muffler. From what I've read it this can be due to the carb running lean or the exhaust valve needs adjusting. The muffler is also quite rotten with rust especially on the back side. I also broke one of the bolts when I removed the exhaust.

Chute direction control: It seems that this has popped out of where it's supposed to be.

Chute height adjustment - The hardware to keep the chute height in place is missing.

Heater Box Missing

Belt cover broken

Kill Switch Inoperable- This may just be because of the rust and the connections are not making proper contact.

Holes in impeller housing - Not sure if body filler will hold or if welding is the best option.

Skid Shoes Rusted out - The housing is barleyholding on as well. Most likely will have to weld on a plate to reinforce.


I've also looked everywhere for the model and serial numbers on this machine. Its either been painted over or it was on the back plate which is missing. If anybody knows an apporximate match please let me know. It will help with finding parts.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/yaT8rbV5kV6fSAp43

Last edited by SkyLight62; 11-02-2017 at 11:00 AM.
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post #2 of 33 Old 11-02-2017, 11:56 AM
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Sweet! Very do-able repair project.
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post #3 of 33 Old 11-02-2017, 03:26 PM
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You should post some photos of it and the problem areas. Might be repairable, might be more trouble than it's worth.

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post #4 of 33 Old 11-02-2017, 03:32 PM Thread Starter
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I put a link at the bottom with pictures. Maybe its not working. I've attached them here as well.
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post #5 of 33 Old 11-02-2017, 03:38 PM
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i would say thats more of a parts machine then anything. i would say save the engine sell the housing. looks like more trouble then its worth unfortunately
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post #6 of 33 Old 11-02-2017, 05:20 PM
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I'll take the easy one first. The chute rotation has a hex that allows you to adjust the fit between the curled wire and the teeth on the chute. As you move that hex forward or backward it will tighten or loosen the contact between the two. I'm guessing there is a C clip or E clip or something similar that holds it in place that's missing.

For the chute adjustment you just need a carriage bolt from the inside pointing out and either a nut or if you can get a large wing nut 2-3" so it's easily adjustable but can lock. Or something with a knob.
https://www.google.com/search?q=3%2F...hrome&ie=UTF-8

I would make sure the welds and or bolts holding the body to the auger housing are good. If they start to go or flex all you'll be doing is eating belts rapidly until you can lock those two together without any flex. On both sides !!

But that impeller housing looks bad. It appears to be rusting out where the chute is welded to the housing. The holes aren't good but it looks to be rusting out. Might want to take a screwdriver and see if you can poke through it. Better to find out now than after you've invested a lot of time and the chute folds over when using it

Can you do the welding on it or would you need to pay someone ??
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Last edited by Kiss4aFrog; 11-02-2017 at 05:27 PM.
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post #7 of 33 Old 11-02-2017, 07:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 43128 View Post
i would say thats more of a parts machine then anything. i would say save the engine sell the housing. looks like more trouble then its worth unfortunately
Corr

Last edited by jtclays; 03-13-2018 at 03:26 PM.
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post #8 of 33 Old 11-02-2017, 07:36 PM
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gearbox should be usable in another machine and tires look alright, but honestly im probably being to kind about the machine
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post #9 of 33 Old 11-03-2017, 09:13 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kiss4aFrog View Post
Can you do the welding on it or would you need to pay someone ??


I have access to a sheet metal fabrication shop. They'd do any welding and sheet metal work at no charge. So the rusted out parts won't be much of an issue. Worst case scenario if I wanted to put in the time, I could get the complete housing fabricated from scratch.

For the chute crank assembly the hex bushing itself is broken. Part # 741-0403. I don't know what exactly keeps it in place but as you said there's probably a clip missing.

Part Numbers:
  • 741-0403 -Chute Crank Bushing
  • 35056 - Muffler
  • 35438 - Choke Knob
  • 35057A USE 36547 - Heater Box - will probably make custom.
Thinking of getting something like this to go with the carriage bolt.




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post #10 of 33 Old 11-06-2017, 04:04 PM Thread Starter
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For the glowing muffler - what would you check first?


I recall before I got the new carb and I was testing the blower with the original carb and the blower was shooting gas out of the exhaust before I could get it started. Once it started with the leaking carb it sounded horrible and may have even been backfiring.


Does this mean it needs a valve adjustment? Or is out of timing?


With the new carb it runs and idles fine but the exhaust started to get red on the inside.

  • Running Lean – China carb doesn’t have an adjustment screw one th bowl but I could use the one off the old carb possibly.
  • Exhaust Valve Adjustment
  • Incorrect timing
  • Clogged Muffler
Which of these would you check first and how? Are 2 and 3 the same thing?

Last edited by SkyLight62; 11-07-2017 at 08:56 AM.
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