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post #1 of 16 Old 01-14-2018, 02:27 PM Thread Starter
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I know, through having read the forums, thatís thereís no lack of opinion on which is the ideal motor oil. But here Iíd like to keep that aside (as much as possible) and just make sure Iím not breaking a definite rule from my manual.

My manual calls for either (ď5W-30Ē or ďsynthetic 0W-30Ē (image attached). For convenience I picked up some at my local superstore. Iíve also looked at what my local supermarket has, What Iíve noticed in both places is that the only 5W-30 in those places is full synthetic, high mileage stuff. Everything else is 10W-30 or other things I canít use.

Since my manual only lists ďsyntheticĒ against 0W-30, itís not intending to exclude synthetic from 5W-30 right? Itís just saying the only acceptable 0W-30 is synthetic?

Bonus questions: since my blower takes 20 oz of oil, and everyone sells it in 32 oz quarts, if I put dome in in the spring, can I save the rest for next sprsing? (Meaning it would be in use for 1.5 years after the bottle was opened?) or does it expire sooner than that?
If itís okay, I presume I better use the same exact brand the next year too to make the rest of the fill up right?
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post #2 of 16 Old 01-14-2018, 02:40 PM
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Use any synthetic oil you want, it's so thin in the winter between all the different weights it doesn't matter. Synthetic is not susceptible to thickening in the cold weather that dino oil is.

It doesn't go bad, save it, put it in your car.

Mixing brands doesn't matter for anything.

Shake it before you pour.

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post #3 of 16 Old 01-14-2018, 02:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fredct View Post
Since my manual only lists ďsyntheticĒ against 0W-30, itís not intending to exclude synthetic from 5W-30 right? Itís just saying the only acceptable 0W-30 is synthetic?
Personally, I'd expect that fully-synthetic 5W-30 is OK, but I'm curious what others think. Maybe there's a consideration that I'm not thinking of, which would somehow make it such that 0W-30 synthetic is OK, but that 5W-30 synthetic would be bad. If synthetic 0W-30 is available, that would seem like a good choice.

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Bonus questions: since my blower takes 20 oz of oil, and everyone sells it in 32 oz quarts, if I put dome in in the spring, can I save the rest for next sprsing? (Meaning it would be in use for 1.5 years after the bottle was opened?) or does it expire sooner than that?
If itís okay, I presume I better use the same exact brand the next year too to make the rest of the fill up right?
You're fine keeping the rest of the bottle on the shelf until the next oil change. But yes, my preference would be to use two bottles of the same stuff, vs having different types of oil in the engine at the same time. I'd pick something suitable, and buy a few bottles of that.

Bonus opinion, not requested ( ): The high mileage Mobil 1 has more ZDDP (an additive) than regular Mobil 1. From what I've read, this extra ZDDP can help lubricate the valvetrains in these small engines. So I'm typically using Mobil 1 High Mileage in my stuff.

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post #4 of 16 Old 01-14-2018, 02:59 PM
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Synthetic 5W30 is just fine, use it. There is absolutely no advantage of running 0W30 synthetic over 5W30 Synthetic.
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post #5 of 16 Old 01-14-2018, 03:27 PM
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Synthetic 5W30 is just fine, use it. There is absolutely no advantage of running 0W30 synthetic over 5W30 Synthetic.
Won't 0W30 flow easier and lubricate quicker than 5W30 during cold weather? It may not be a big difference when they are both synthetic, but I would guess that it will provide some advantage.
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post #6 of 16 Old 01-14-2018, 03:34 PM
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Won't 0W30 flow easier and lubricate quicker than 5W30 during cold weather? It may not be a big difference when they are both synthetic, but I would guess that it will provide some advantage.
Minimally. The reason auto manufacturers are now specking 5-30 instead of in the old days of 10-40, is mileage. Thinner oil results in slightly better mileage. Also, the tolerances of newer engines are tighter, and thinner works better with tighter tolerance engines. In the "old days" we used to run 20-50.

On these engines, it really doesn't matter that much. It's splashed lubricated, there's no oil pump.
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post #7 of 16 Old 01-14-2018, 03:37 PM
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Snowblower and lawnmower engines are a sump, they don't need a high tech oil that a car engine needs with it's holes and passageways. If it's oil, it's slippery, it will work.

1986 Ariens ST522, 5hp, 22"
1995 Murray Craftsman 10hp, 29" w. 12" impeller
A 1983 Real John Deere 10hp, 32" w. 12" impeller, 16" auger, 20" high front, cast iron gear box, chains
Noma 9hp, 27" w. 12" impeller
Noma 5hp, 24" w. 12" impeller, 20" high front
Gravely Convertible, 12hp Kohler cast iron, 26" width, 600 lbs of cast iron & steel, 2 speed impeller, 4 ground speeds
Dynamark 8hp, 26", 12" impeller, for sale
Several other 5hp, 8hp, several 2 cycle, all for sale
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post #8 of 16 Old 01-14-2018, 03:43 PM
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Originally Posted by JLawrence08648 View Post
Snowblower and lawnmower engines are a sump, they don't need a high tech oil that a car engine needs with it's holes and passageways. If it's oil, it's slippery, it will work.
Sump=Splash right? Just wondering if we're saying the same thing.
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post #9 of 16 Old 01-14-2018, 04:06 PM
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Nice fun fact jlawrence, ZDDP FTW.

I use synthetic blend 5w-30 with an added dash of zddp. Itís particularly good for any application with a non roller cam, and bumps lubricity across the board.

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post #10 of 16 Old 01-14-2018, 04:57 PM
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Originally Posted by RedOctobyr View Post
Personally, I'd expect that fully-synthetic 5W-30 is OK, but I'm curious what others think. Maybe there's a consideration that I'm not thinking of, which would somehow make it such that 0W-30 synthetic is OK, but that 5W-30 synthetic would be bad. If synthetic 0W-30 is available, that would seem like a good choice.

You're fine keeping the rest of the bottle on the shelf until the next oil change. But yes, my preference would be to use two bottles of the same stuff, vs having different types of oil in the engine at the same time. I'd pick something suitable, and buy a few bottles of that.

Bonus opinion, not requested ( ): The high mileage Mobil 1 has more ZDDP (an additive) than regular Mobil 1. From what I've read, this extra ZDDP can help lubricate the valvetrains in these small engines. So I'm typically using Mobil 1 High Mileage in my stuff.
ZDDP is a zinc additive needed for flat tappet camshafts like old cars and small engines use. it also helps lube the top end rings and valves better, quaker state also has a high mileage semi blend oil with zddp in it .forget the name right now but it's in a red bottle
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