Honda HS928 electrical issue - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
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post #1 of 25 Old 01-17-2018, 09:35 AM Thread Starter
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Honda HS928 electrical issue

I bought my current blower two years ago, it's now 9 years old. This season I've had trouble with the electrics, and I'm trying to figure out the source.

The first time I started it this year the electric starter wouldn't work. The solenoid was clicking in and out, but not closing, so I started it with a pull. The headlamp worked, but the chute motor wouldn't operate. I took the battery out and charged it up, and everything worked fine after that.

Fast forward to yesterday, and again the battery went flat in storage. Again the headlamp works but the chute motor doesn't. I disconnected the headlamp to save power, and by the time I had finished all my blowing (which is less fun with a fixed chute), the chute motor would operate again.

To my (limited) mind I've got either an expired battery that won't hold a charge, something draining the battery during storage, or maybe an alternator that's crapping out and not delivering full power.

I figure if it was just the alternator then the chute motor should still work, just more slowly. Unless the motor runs exclusively off the battery?

Can someone help me work out a diagnostic algorithm for this?

Last edited by Marc_NL; 01-17-2018 at 09:44 AM. Reason: Clarification and style.
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post #2 of 25 Old 01-17-2018, 09:44 AM
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The easiest thing to do, is take the battery to your local parts store and have them load test it. If it's not load tested, it's not tested. If the battery tests good go to the next step.

Take the positive side off the battery, put a multimeter on it set to milliamps. Put the meter between the positive terminal and the positive cable that is usually attached to the battery. One lead on each. If there is a reading, it's probably a short caused by a cracked wire shorting to the chassis. If you don't have a meter, you can use a test light, or a light bulb. The brighter the bulb the worse the short/drain. Not as accurate as a meter, but will tell the story.

If there is no drain, start the blower, measure the voltage at the battery. Should be 14 volts or so, typically 14.3 on a car. Anything under 13.5 is bad, and you have a bad alternator. (I don't know what the manufacturer's spec is on the alternator you'll have to check that)
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post #3 of 25 Old 01-17-2018, 09:48 AM
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is there anyway you can check the alternator with a meter while it's running like you can on a car? does the lamp brighten from a low idle to a fast throttle? if it does I think the alternator is working.

have you checked and cleaned all connections and grounds?

hopefully, an electrical type person will contribute something else.

"It Feels Like Beer O'Clock "
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post #4 of 25 Old 01-17-2018, 09:49 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the reply.

For load testing, could I just put my multimeter across it and turn the starter? I'll have to charge it first anyway.
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post #5 of 25 Old 01-17-2018, 09:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marc_NL View Post
Thanks for the reply.

For load testing, could I just put my multimeter across it and turn the starter? I'll have to charge it first anyway.
I guess you could, however, my local Auto Zone has some complicated contraption that measures all kinds of stuff. I'd take it to them, it's a more comprehensive test. I don't now where you live, and if that's even feasible. I take for granted I can buy just about anything here, any time of day.
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post #6 of 25 Old 01-17-2018, 10:02 AM
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Nevermind. I read it wrong. I need to stop doing three things at a time and pay attention to one. Hey look, something shiny.

Last edited by jsup; 01-17-2018 at 10:14 AM.
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post #7 of 25 Old 01-17-2018, 10:04 AM
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Originally Posted by orangputeh View Post
is there anyway you can check the alternator with a meter while it's running like you can on a car? does the lamp brighten from a low idle to a fast throttle? if it does I think the alternator is working..
Yeah, just put a meter on the battery terminals as it's running. Automotive spec is 14.3 I'm not sure what snowblower spec is.
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post #8 of 25 Old 01-17-2018, 10:08 AM
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Your battery is bad. Just buy a new one. Always keep a battery tender hooked up to it.
If you continue using the bad battery, it will burn out the alternator.
The reason your controls will not work at first is because all the alternator output is going to charge the battery. As the voltage increases, in the battery, the charge current goes down, leaving more current to operate the controls.

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post #9 of 25 Old 01-17-2018, 10:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jonnied12 View Post
Your battery is bad. Just buy a new one. Always keep a battery tender hooked up to it.
If you continue using the bad battery, it will burn out the alternator.
The reason your controls will not work at first is because all the alternator output is going to charge the battery. As the voltage increases, in the battery, the charge current goes down, leaving more current to operate the controls.
Makes the most sense. Occom's Razor. The simplest explanation is probably the right one.
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post #10 of 25 Old 01-17-2018, 10:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jonnied12 View Post
Your battery is bad. Just buy a new one. Always keep a battery tender hooked up to it.
If you continue using the bad battery, it will burn out the alternator.
.
Is that battery NINE years old?? If so, its long past its useful lifespan, put it out to pasture.


Battery tenders are da' bomb. A good one will keep those batteries in tip top shape and extend their lifespan as well.
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