Hi, I picked up a Craftsman 10/32 last year and need to replace both axle brackets and bearings. Can't replace just the bearings as the previous owner ran it past where the bearings wore out, and the mounts/brackets are worn.

In any case, the old bearings are hexagonal and not sold separately anymore (at least not that size, that I can find). Wouldn't want to risk installing them in the old brackets anyway.

New brackets with bearings ready to install (new ones are round, not hex), but they mount on the inside of the case, not outside (could go outside but not supposed to).

Problem - can't get the axle off to remove old and install new brackets and bearings, without removing most of the drive train to get clearance. The axle and sprocket are one piece; sprocket won't clear the clutch plate, friction disk plate, etc.

The shroud/case is bolted in multiple places on all sides, including holding drive train parts in place.

See pictures. Anyone know a 'simple(r)' way of doing this? I had one small engine guy start on it then give up after an hour, when he realised what was involved. Another shop suggested I cut the case to remove the axle, then weld it after. What?? No way!

I have the manual with all illustrations. I don't see a quick way around this. Any ideas would be welcome. Thanks.

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Can you not slide the axle to the right and then pull the left side out from the inside?

Tried. The chain drive sprocket only moves a couple inches then hits the friction disk and various drive components - clutch plate, shaft, etc. Can't lift it over or around as the axle only moves up or down a few inches in any direction.

mines exactly the same . ive removied the hex shaft and the rubber friction wheel drive shaft(known as the clutch ), i got better at it by 3rd time, videos on that in my sig. the drive pulley/friction wheel seems easier but ive never removed it yet.

Thanks Vinny. I'll have a look at your video and try again. I probably can't get back to it before Saturday. Really appreciate the reply.

Got it done. New brackets with bearings installed on the inside of the case, as original.

Had to remove most of the drive train to get enough clearance. Couple hours off and on once I realised what was needed. But it gave me a chance to clean and lube more parts.

Now the auger pulley is off and a new bearing will be ordered. That pulley was practically welded to the impeller shaft, the corrosion was so bad. I tried heat (just a propane torch) then WD40 - no movement even after leaving it overnight.

Next was more heat, then the DiY 50/50 acetone-trannny fluid (or brake fluid) mixture. Left overnight then got it off with some persuasion (ball peen hammer, pry bar, tapping from both sides alternately).

It was a few degrees below freezing so the impeller shaft was nice and cold; heated just the pulley, hope it expands enough to allow a bit of movement (and more fluid to seep in), then the hammer and pry bar back and forth.

Might be easier to just take the bearing and cut a slit down the side of it. You have to be careful to cut almost all the way through while trying not to nick the shaft. A good tap with a hammer and chisel should pop it right open and then it should slide off.

I just noticed something, I sent a Brute 1032 to the scrapper the other day and IIRC the guts of the tractor unit looked very similar. If you have parts location issues, maybe check them for parts sources.

Just a comment.

Shryp and HCBPH, noted and thanks for the feedback!

After you get the bearing off be sure to clean the shaft with some emery paper and / or a file. You are going to want to sand the rust off and file and burrs or mushrooming on the end of the shaft. The new pieces should slip back on without too much fuss. Just be sure you don't over do it to the point of them being too loose.