Tecumseh HM80 Do's and don'ts? - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
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post #1 of 54 Old 01-21-2018, 03:41 PM Thread Starter
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Tecumseh HM80 Do's and don'ts?

So like the title says, as best I can figure my Craftsman Tecumseh engine #143.796132 is an HM80-155370N.

I don't know much about these engines except not to exceed 3600rpm. Anything special I should know about maintenance or any weak spot I should know about? Are they generally durable etc? Thanks fellas!
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post #2 of 54 Old 01-21-2018, 04:16 PM
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Use 5 20 synthetic...don't over rev.....and they will last....they are durable enough. and if they fail....there is the Predator!
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post #3 of 54 Old 01-21-2018, 06:07 PM
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I would add keep them level. Don't run it with the front auger up in the air and the handles pushed down which some people do with really big drifts.

Please direct all snow blower questions to the forums and not to me with PMs.
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post #4 of 54 Old 01-22-2018, 08:46 AM
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I try to run my Tecs a little slow. I overfill the oil by 1/2" just in case and change it often. Every time you finish running it, shut off the fuel and let it run the carb dry.

'77 Ariens 924032 "Brick House" Re-Powered with a TEC 10HP and oversize auger pulley
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post #5 of 54 Old 01-22-2018, 09:13 AM
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My Tecumseh is almost 50 years old, and it runs great ... used to be my dads Snowblower ... just change the oil and use Stabil in the gas. Never had a bit of a problem with it. It is on a Yardman 7100.

My 2 Ariens were from previous owners. I put a Briggs on one and a Predadtor 212 on the other. I actually like the Predadtor and the Tecumseh over the Briggs, although I got the Briggs with electric start for my wife, but I just pull start it.
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post #6 of 54 Old 01-22-2018, 10:43 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nt40lanman View Post
I try to run my Tecs a little slow. I overfill the oil by 1/2" just in case and change it often. Every time you finish running it, shut off the fuel and let it run the carb dry.
It got an oil change last night. Sticker says 5/20 or 5/30 depending on temp. Machine has not been used all that much and in the 10 yrs I'm in the house. I would say that at least 4 of those years I never fueled it up for the season. The times I did if I only had 5-10 hrs on it the oil stayed. Little worried about acid etching but figured new oils are better at buffering.

Have no idea how old owner treated it although he seemed like a guy who did his maintenance.

With new driveway and impeller mod I want to try to use it more often. Like for those 3-5" snows that I always grabbed my Toro for. Toro is awesome but the 20" cut and lack of real self propel are drawbacks for my largish parking area and moderately sloped drive.

Thinking I'd like to rebuild the carb since the high speed jet acts a little funny. Sometimes it will bog after half way through clearing snow. Give the jet a turn and it snaps back to life. Maybe should just buy new since they're cheap enough.

I like that the carb has a float bowl drain. Running a carb dry simply by running the engine, even with choking and priming as it runs down still leaves some fuel in the bowl so that's something I think all carbs should have nowadays.
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post #7 of 54 Old 01-23-2018, 11:45 AM
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If the fuel lines are dried and cracked change them now before you get a fuel leak behind the starter shroud where you can't see it-primer hose,too.

Check all the screws on the carb heat shroud fairly frequently if using the machine regularly-they like to fall out.
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post #8 of 54 Old 01-23-2018, 11:58 AM Thread Starter
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If the fuel lines are dried and cracked change them now before you get a fuel leak behind the starter shroud where you can't see it-primer hose,too.

Check all the screws on the carb heat shroud fairly frequently if using the machine regularly-they like to fall out.
The machine did lose one shroud bolt sometime in the past. Had the heat shroud off last night and the primer line seems flexible as does the bulb itself. I did not check the fuel line but I ordered a new carb last night and will see what's going on when I change it.

The current carb is just a little balky. The main jet mixture screw is slow to respond to changes especially as you turn it out (rich). Nothing will happen then a minute later it will stumble until you lean it out then it can go the other way.

Also I have throttle up a little slow or it can stall and it sometimes backfires. Had the float bowl off and it was clean but the o-ring for the main jet is crumbling and some of that may have found its way where it don't belong. Also the float bowl gasket is cracked but not leaking gas. I shot some carb cleaner and ran some copper wire through the jet w/o much change.

Next step would be to pull the carb and fully clean and rebuild but that seems to be hit and miss according to what I've read and it's cheap to just buy a new carb.
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post #9 of 54 Old 01-23-2018, 11:58 AM
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for the old tecumsehs, check oil b4 starting, change oil yearly because its a good thing todo. theyre almost bullet proof

Bought a dead but now fixed 1980ish craftsman II 10/28....ITS ONE HEAVY BEAST

MY VIDS ON FIXIN HER UP

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post #10 of 54 Old 01-23-2018, 12:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jatoxico View Post
......

Next step would be to pull the carb and fully clean and rebuild but that seems to be hit and miss according to what I've read and it's cheap to just buy a new carb.
Everyone's free to do as they please,but I'll never understand this new trend of just tossing an original Tecumseh carb and replacing with a Chinese unit.A careful cleaning will often restore them to perfect working order,usually with no parts needing replacement.Plenty of step-by-step guides out there on carb cleaning,that would be my plan.JMHO.
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