Chute Re-location Project - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
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post #1 of 26 Old 01-30-2018, 09:43 PM Thread Starter
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Chute Re-location Project

Hey guys, I posted this before, I'm working on a friend's machine, we did a Briggs repower on a Toro 724.

The Chute Rotation Rod had to be re-located because of interference with the engine. I found some universal joints on the internet, but they were $50. Yeah, you heard it right, $50 EACH!

After a lot of searching, I found some MTD swivels that worked. $14 each. I got those.

I also got an MTD Stand off (basically an eye-bolt) . I got the rubber grommet that goes inside the eye bolt, and the rubber boot to cover it. $14 for the set.

I need one more set of eye bolt, grommet, and boot to finish the job.

I'm a big believer if you ask for help, assistance, you should post the final results up so people can see how it came out. So here ya go.

The silver rod is 3/8 steel rod I bought at Home Depot. I cleaned, primed, and painted before assembly to help prevent rust. Yes, with Rustoleum.

I cut the factory chute rotation rod, drilled it to match the swivel on my drill press, did the same on all sides of the swivels, and installed roll pins.

SO although not FINAL, waiting on that eyebolt set, it's pretty close. Since the time I took the picture, I cut back the roll pins flush with the swivels, I don't like the look of them sticking out, looks messy. I made the handle higher so he wouldn't have to bend down to rotate it.

When I get the new standoff, I'll mount it on top, the one that's on there has no rubber boot, and is too short.
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Last edited by jsup; 01-30-2018 at 10:13 PM.
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post #2 of 26 Old 01-30-2018, 10:03 PM
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I've used inexpensive 3/8" swivel sockets from harbor freight as universal joints for that purpose
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post #3 of 26 Old 01-30-2018, 10:15 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by YSHSfan View Post
I've used inexpensive 3/8" swivel sockets from harbor freight as universal joints for that purpose
How do you get the round rod to stay in the square hole? How do you connect to the male side?

Here's the link if you need it.
https://www.ereplacementparts.com/jo...p-1042294.html

Jacks has them for a little less under the same part number, but didn't have a picture. They're zinc coated.

I thought they were $14 for the pair, sorry, they were $14 each. My mistake. I corrected above.
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post #4 of 26 Old 01-30-2018, 10:15 PM
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nicely done, thanks for posting. Let us know how it is working after a while of use.

Paul
----------------------------------------------------------------
1995 Toro 724, 1988 Toro 521
1980 Toro 421, 1995 Craftsman 524
1997 Toro CCR 2500 & 1994 Toro CCR Powerlite
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post #5 of 26 Old 01-30-2018, 10:19 PM Thread Starter
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nicely done, thanks for posting. Let us know how it is working after a while of use.
Thanks. My only regret is that the upper standoff is 90* to the handle, I'm thinking I should have shifted it around toward the operator a little to open up the angle on the second U-Joint. I don't want to drill another hole in the handle bar, weaken it.

I will. He has to come over and we have to make a final determination on the height of the crank handle. Right now, it's just to the outside of the left handle, he may want it lower, maybe down to the higher standoff. When I get the other standoff, I'll make the adjustments.
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post #6 of 26 Old 01-30-2018, 10:25 PM
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Quote:
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How do you get the round rod to stay in the square hole? How do you connect to the male side?
I grind the rod as needed to fit in the 'square' hole of the universal and weld it to it. Then weld an old (or new inexpensive) 3/8 drive socket to the other end so that they can connect/disconnect. Not ideal but functional....
You can also weld both ends if wanted to.
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post #7 of 26 Old 01-30-2018, 10:27 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by YSHSfan View Post
I grind the rod as needed to fit in the 'square' hole of the universal and weld it to it. Then weld an old (or new inexpensive) 3/8 drive socket to the other end so that they can connect/disconnect. Not ideal but functional....
You can also weld both ends if wanted to.
AH, ok. I don't weld. One thing I never picked up. I'm not dead yet, so who knows.
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post #8 of 26 Old 01-30-2018, 10:30 PM
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AH, ok. I don't weld. One thing I never picked up. I'm not dead yet, so who knows.
MIG welding is fairly easy to learn.
I'm not a great welder, but can do some welding when needed.
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post #9 of 26 Old 01-30-2018, 10:35 PM Thread Starter
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MIG welding is fairly easy to learn.
I'm not a great welder, but can do some welding when needed.
It's something I'd like to learn. I'm getting old, not much time to learn new stuff.
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post #10 of 26 Old 01-31-2018, 07:46 AM
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It's something I'd like to learn. I'm getting old, not much time to learn new stuff.
It's never too late to learn if you really have the desire and determination
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