Replaced auger belt now auger keeps spinning - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
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post #1 of 19 Old 02-06-2018, 10:06 PM Thread Starter
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Replaced auger belt now auger keeps spinning

I have a Cub Cadet 357cc 28 inch (31BH55ST596) which was purchased this season. I wasn't paying attention and the auger was completely frozen up, I ran it and the belt broke.

I ordered a replacement belt which was a 954-04195 and installed it. After installing when I run the machine and engage the auger control everything seems to work. However releasing the auger control the auger stays engaged.

The cable tension seems right it's not tight and there is a bit of slack, so I don't think loosening it further would help. The idle pulley is in the loosest position already as well. I'm not sure if there's anything else obvious to check?

One other thing to note, because the belt was essentially 'burned' through there was a lot of rubber gunk. I've tried to clean whatever I could, but not sure if this could be interfering still. When engaging the auger it seems like there is a squeaking noise around around the cable pulley, not sure if that could be related.

Any help would be greatly appreciated, still trying to learn as I'm new to snowblowers!
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post #2 of 19 Old 02-07-2018, 04:55 AM
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Usually, there is a 'brake' of some sort that keeps the impeller/auger from spinning while the hand lever is not engaged. However, I do not see such a thing on the parts diagram for that model. Maybe retrace your steps on the belt replacement and check the belt engaging mechanism to see if something is out of sorts.

Regards, Ted
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post #3 of 19 Old 02-07-2018, 05:55 AM
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If it's not in the manual or available as a YouTube vid for that Cub you may want to call corporate try to get tech support on the line or call a local dealer. On an Ariens there is an auger brake that sometimes requires an adjustment, there is a specified clearance to ensure it stops within a few seconds after the clutch cable release. Unfortunately I'm not familiar with the Cub design, somebody who is should be weighing in. Good luck.

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post #4 of 19 Old 02-07-2018, 06:50 AM
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FWIW - I had to go to the Canadian site to find the model number and parts list. Probably little difference than the USA models though.

Regards, Ted
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post #5 of 19 Old 02-07-2018, 11:11 AM
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I don't know if you have the manual for your machine or not, but this link goes to the manual. Check page 20 for theprocedure to replace the auger belt. If you have lots of rubber debris from the old belt you should be able to clean it up with the machine tilted up into service position and following the slightly vague instructions from page 20. Also prevents you from getting the belt looped over the brake arm instead of being under it, where it belongs.

http://www.cubcadet.ca/equipment/en/...&serialNumber=

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post #6 of 19 Old 02-07-2018, 11:57 AM
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Go to a 1/2" shorter belt but first find out the length of the manufacturers belt, then measure the outside circumference of your belt, compare, order 1/2" longer than the belt you have on.

1986 Ariens ST522, 5hp, 22"
1995 Murray Craftsman 10hp, 29" w. 12" impeller
A 1983 Real John Deere 10hp, 32" w. 12" impeller, 16" auger, 20" high front, cast iron gear box, chains
Noma 9hp, 27" w. 12" impeller
Noma 5hp, 24" w. 12" impeller, 20" high front
Gravely Convertible, 12hp Kohler cast iron, 26" width, 600 lbs of cast iron & steel, 2 speed impeller, 4 ground speeds
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post #7 of 19 Old 02-07-2018, 01:08 PM
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Which side of the belt is getting chewed up the back side? If so there is a brake it's part #24 on page 10. There's a spring that pulls the brake against the belt it's part #14 on page 10. Yours looks similar to mine, here's a picture of mine you can see the spring at the bottom and it's attached to the brake. https://photos.app.goo.gl/4gDcHhpSks5MRSsg2
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post #8 of 19 Old 02-07-2018, 03:19 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the input guys. The manual skutflut posted is the manual I have, and that's the procedure I followed. The belt is definitely not around any other parts

JLawrence08648 - What would going to a smaller belt do? The belt is already engaging when it shouldn't be, wouldn't a looser belt help in this case? The belt spec is 37 inches long and .5 inches wide.

Platinumgoose - Yes it looks the same as yours. The first belt got eaten up because I was silly and ran it not realizing the impeller was blocked. Everything with the original belt worked great. Replacing with the new belt it gets stuck.

Here's a view of the underside which shows the belt seated, as far as I can tell it looks right:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1K6F...tWo_UuD2PNk6Dj

Here's a short video showing the top side machine starting and the belt immediately starting to go without the auger lever pressed:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Lqt...ZENvzDBX07yND5

I called cub cadet and they confirmed the part I ordered was the right part. They couldn't explain the symptoms, they said it sounded almost like it was a shorter belt that was put on but it's the right part. They suggested bringing it into a mechanic. Also strange they said there was no brake, even though underneath it does appear like there is.

Let me know if more pictures of anything would be helpful... would like to get this sorted out! Appreciate all the input thus far.
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post #9 of 19 Old 02-07-2018, 04:05 PM
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I'm thinking that (where red arrow points) may be the 'brake' for the auger/impeller pulley and it does not look like it is engaging.

Replaced auger belt now auger keeps spinning-img_20180206_223939.jpg

I wonder if it is hung up on something. As the idler wheel (up top ) retracts loosening the belt, the brake on the undersize should come in contact with the belt/pulley keeping it from turning.

I wonder if something is amiss with the brake.

Regards, Ted
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post #10 of 19 Old 02-07-2018, 04:47 PM
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Did I say 1/2" shorter? Whoops! I meant 1/2" longer. The belt is grabbing, it needs to slip. I've run into this often, the manufacturers recommended belt is not the right length. Now I measure the existing belt, find the length of the recommended belt, and order accordingly adjusting if necessary.

1986 Ariens ST522, 5hp, 22"
1995 Murray Craftsman 10hp, 29" w. 12" impeller
A 1983 Real John Deere 10hp, 32" w. 12" impeller, 16" auger, 20" high front, cast iron gear box, chains
Noma 9hp, 27" w. 12" impeller
Noma 5hp, 24" w. 12" impeller, 20" high front
Gravely Convertible, 12hp Kohler cast iron, 26" width, 600 lbs of cast iron & steel, 2 speed impeller, 4 ground speeds
Dynamark 8hp, 26", 12" impeller, for sale
Several other 5hp, 8hp, several 2 cycle, all for sale
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