Ariens ST824LE for Refurbishment . . . - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
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post #1 of 51 Old 02-25-2018, 11:39 AM Thread Starter
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Ariens ST824LE for Refurbishment . . .

I got this Ariens ST824LE from my brother, who recently bought a new Ariens Deluxe 30.

This Ariens has the old school Tecumseh (Cast Iron Bore) engine. He told me that the engine was not running well and he was advised by a mechanic to get a new machine (thus the Ariens 30). I told him that I would take a look at the old Ariens and see if it could be fixed up and sold.

Ariens ST824LE for Refurbishment . . .-img_1065.jpg

Ariens ST824LE for Refurbishment . . .-img_1066.jpg

Ariens ST824LE for Refurbishment . . .-img_1067.jpg

Looks to be in really good shape for a 15 year old machine. The engine does run like poo, but i'll see if I can get it running right.

First steps are to do a little bit of decarb on the combustion chamber and run some fuel system cleaner, then do a compression and cylinder leak test to see where we are at . . .

Regards, Ted
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post #2 of 51 Old 02-25-2018, 11:59 AM
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tp, I'd take that one even it it had an inspection window behind the starter I love those models.

Last edited by sscotsman; 12-08-2018 at 05:06 PM. Reason: restored original post.
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post #3 of 51 Old 02-25-2018, 12:50 PM
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Other than the engine power issue it sure doesn't look like it needs much.

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Make sure the windows are up before the snow plow goes by !!

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post #4 of 51 Old 02-25-2018, 01:21 PM
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mechanics are not the best person to take advice from regarding small engine machines, more than likely just needs a carb clean

Bought a dead but now fixed 1980ish craftsman II 10/28....ITS ONE HEAVY BEAST

MY VIDS ON FIXIN HER UP

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post #5 of 51 Old 02-25-2018, 03:44 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks, guys. I was surprised that it is in such good shape. The engine does run badly. So far, I have disassembled and cleaned the carb, which was very clean already,

I ran a compression test (had to use the pull start as the electric start is not engaging) I did not get much compression . . . maybe 25 lbs. I did a cylinder leak test and got only 4% leak, which is good for a 15 year old engine. I think I'll revisit the compression test to see if I get the same results.

Right now, I'm doing an oil change, just because it does not look like it had one recently.

The engine starts fine . . . 1-2 pulls. But it 'studders' quite a bit throughout the throttle range, like its trying to run smoothly, but just can't quite seem to do so.

So, maybe timing ???

Maybe the compression release cam is not disengaging??? I assume that works off of the pull cord ???

The exhaust is clear . . . not sooty.

When I pull the spark plug after running, it is wet, which may indicate a rich mixture.

The carb has no adjustments.

Thoughts?

It would be a bummer if I could not get the engine sorted out and had to buy a replacement engine. (there goes the profit margin)

Regards, Ted
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Current & Past Fleet:
2017 Husqvarna ST224 (SOLD)
2014 Troy-Bilt 2410 w/ Briggs & Stratton 305cc Engine
2003 Ariens ST824LE (SOLD)
1999 Toro PowerShift 824 w/ 318cc OHV Tecumseh Engine
1988 Toro 521 w/ 212cc Predator Engine
1985 Toro 3521 w/ 179cc Powermore Engine (SOLD)
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post #6 of 51 Old 02-25-2018, 04:09 PM
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See if you have carbon deposits on the valves/seats. They could be causing the low compression due do the valves not seating well. I had a rough running machine that I cleared up with some intense Sea Foam applications.
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post #7 of 51 Old 02-25-2018, 04:46 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Snapbean View Post
See if you have carbon deposits on the valves/seats. They could be causing the low compression due do the valves not seating well. I had a rough running machine that I cleared up with some intense Sea Foam applications.
Yes, I did check the valve seats, and instead of SeaFoam, I used a mix of acetone and ATF in the combustion chamber to clear out some carbon. The area around the valves did look better afterwards. Also, I would not have gotten good leak test results if the valves were not sealing tight.

FWIW - I made a short video on the engine running at various stages throughout the throttle range. There is a bit is 'clacking/ringing' noise that you can hear at the lower RPM's. I used my mechanics stethoscope to isolate that extra noise to the muffler. Sort of makes me think that there is a baffle that has come loose in the muffler. . . . could be messing up the engine performance. Max RPM is 3475-3500 as per my digital optical tach.

Here is the link to the video. . .


Regards, Ted
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Current & Past Fleet:
2017 Husqvarna ST224 (SOLD)
2014 Troy-Bilt 2410 w/ Briggs & Stratton 305cc Engine
2003 Ariens ST824LE (SOLD)
1999 Toro PowerShift 824 w/ 318cc OHV Tecumseh Engine
1988 Toro 521 w/ 212cc Predator Engine
1985 Toro 3521 w/ 179cc Powermore Engine (SOLD)
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post #8 of 51 Old 02-25-2018, 05:04 PM
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Does

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post #9 of 51 Old 02-25-2018, 05:05 PM Thread Starter
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Here is the sticker from the engine, in case that is useful information.

Ariens ST824LE for Refurbishment . . .-img_1077.jpg

Tec HMSK80 155668V

Regards, Ted
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Current & Past Fleet:
2017 Husqvarna ST224 (SOLD)
2014 Troy-Bilt 2410 w/ Briggs & Stratton 305cc Engine
2003 Ariens ST824LE (SOLD)
1999 Toro PowerShift 824 w/ 318cc OHV Tecumseh Engine
1988 Toro 521 w/ 212cc Predator Engine
1985 Toro 3521 w/ 179cc Powermore Engine (SOLD)
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post #10 of 51 Old 02-25-2018, 05:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Snapbean View Post
See if you have carbon deposits on the valves/seats. They could be causing the low compression due do the valves not seating well. I had a rough running machine that I cleared up with some intense Sea Foam applications.
Another way to clean the valves and seats is with some carb cleaner, a variable speed drill and a 'brass wire' rotary brush. Insure it's really brass wire and not brass covered steel wire. First I do the piston top and inside of the head using carb cleaner and the wire brush. With both valves closed, I hit the tops of the valves using the carb cleaner & brush. Next roll the engine so one valve is open and do the same thing hitting the underside of the valve. Roll the engine so the other valve is open and do it again. Once it's all done hit everything with carb cleaner and wipe up all the leftovers. Final step I do is spray it down with some WD40 and wipe it around to insure you have a thin coat on the cylinder walls and piston. You should have a fully decarb'd engine at this point, just reassemble it if everything else is done.
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