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1968 Ariens, where to start?

13K views 46 replies 16 participants last post by  Ariensboy 
#1 ·
My previous post mentioned someone gave me this classic 1968 Ariens. I have full intention on restoring this for fun and want to get some advice from you all in regards to where should I start first? I know the auger link to handle control is broken so I need to fix that. I figured the gas is old so I would start be draining and cleaning the carb and changing the oil and spark plug. The machine will not fire up now but that could be due to really old gas (2+ years). What do you? I don't want to spend money on this until I know it functions. The previous owner told me it ran 2+ years ago. I have no reason to doubt her as she's a friend.
 

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#3 ·
if it ran 2 years ago and you trust her, draining the gas, cleaning/rebuilding the carb is a tiny investment.

do you get resistance when pulling it over (compression?)

also, test for spark... the points (in the magneto assembly behind the flywheel) often need some TLC... I'm willing to bet they're pitted. I've had good success sanding-out the pitting.
 
#4 ·
whats your plan for it......"show er" or blower ? if you want it to be a blower.....go with a repower, ( predator). a "show er" is "potentially" less expensive but you miss out on the performance for nostalgia .
 
#5 ·
I second the starting fluid to see if it fires and if so going with flushing out the tank a bit and then fresh fuel. I'd try to get it running without cleaning the carb first and if once you get it running it runs well you don't need to. If it doesn't then you either add some fuel system cleaner which might do the job or tear the carb down and clean it if you've tested the spark and found it good.

.
 
#9 ·
Ok, no luck starting this and no spark from the spark plug. I drained the gas and the carb bowl looks like this. And I pumped and drained the oil and that looks even worst.

Can not get it to engage in natural or reverse. How do adjust that?

Flywheel does have teeth, does anyone know what model starter I can put on this? That is if it will start and I go ahead and invest in this. So far I have not spend any money on it.
 

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#10 ·
First things first. Check it over to determine if it is worth fixing. Check the tractor, auger assy, etc. Get spark before doing anything else. After spark try firing it with carb/choke cleaner. Starting fluid always seemed a bit too hot for my liking. If it fires then go after fuel system. Make sure it has enough oil before running it any length of time. Don't worry about finding an electric starter motor until you get it running. Why buy something you may not be able to use?
I hope you get the old girl going again.
 
#13 · (Edited)
Grounded the spark plug and still no sparks. I want to clean and lightly sand the points but can’t figure out how to remove this. I was able to remove the middle but that held the protective screen but I don’t see anything else holding this down. Any idea?
 

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#14 ·
put a sacrificial nut to protect the threads on the crankshaft.....pry up on the flywheel...and it it hard with a BFH...it will pop off. Open up the cover of the points, and shine them up good with crocus cloth.....button up and try it. No spark repeat and try again. This is why I repower all old engines before breakerless with newer engines or Predators. You let that bad girl set for a while and you will have the same issue again.
 
#15 ·
Was able to take the flywheel off and lightly sanded the points. Now I have sparks with the new plug. Changed the oil, drained the gas, replaced gas line, and rebuilt carb. It fired up nicely today. But the drive is not working because I think the friction wheel is too wore. That’s next.
 

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#18 ·
I try to get my 10 year son involved in this. He asked “dad, when will you use this vs the newer Ariens and the Yamaha?”
Me, “son, I don’t plan on using it.”
Son, “then why the heck are you fixing it then?”
Me, “for the challenge and for bonding with you”

May be I will wrong. May be I will use it. Will kee you guys posted.
 
#19 ·
Oh man, Upon closer inspection I realized the bearing housing is broken. Don’t know how I didn’t see that from the start. I was ready to give this up but luckily I found the whole bearing housing, belt disc and drive plate all for $46 on eBay. That’s next. Hope this doesn’t turn into a can of worms : ) or is that too late already?
 

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#21 ·
More update. Took apart the drive gears, bearing housing, axle, etc. the bearing house was completely broken off all three points as you can see in the replacement part next to it.
 

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#25 ·
Hi Classiccat,
What do you see this may suggest the head may be warp? I like to look into this further since I have all taken apart. Sorry, I have never done this before so it's all new to me, and I figured I have gone this far I may as well check on everything.
Thanks
 
#28 ·
It's most noticeable on the head. Right at the one head bolt hole with the arrow you see the gasket surface to the left of the arrow fairly clean from being adequately sealed and then all the soot from the exhaust gas blowing past the gasket on the right side of the arrow.

.
 

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