Tecumseh H50 carb - studs stripped, spinning - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #1 of 22 Old 03-26-2018, 01:29 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
tlshawks's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Cedar Rapids IA
Posts: 613
Post Thanks / Like
Thanks (Given): 24
Thanks (Received): 32
Likes (Given): 43
Likes (Received): 216
Garage
Tecumseh H50 carb - studs stripped, spinning

Crud. Figured someone here knows a trick I'm not thinking of yet.

So, I'm trying to remove a carb on a 910965 Ariens, H50 Tec. The nuts for the carb are both spinning the studs, yet the studs are not backing out as I spin the nut with a wrench. I can't help but think the stud or manifold threads got rusty to the point where they don't thread at all any more.

This is a roughly 1971-2 engine, and the previous owner probably hadn't removed the carb in a long, long time. It sat unused for over a decade and overall the blower is in fantastic cosmetic shape, zero rust anywhere. Just ain't been used in a long time.

To me, I have to get some sort of leverage on the carb assembly to pull as I turn, but there isn't room to really apply any pulling force. The two manifold Phillips screws, I can get at one but not the other.

To me, if I can get the studs to start coming out away from the manifold, I can save these all without needing a replacement manifold or tapping new threads etc (hopefully).

So...what trick am I missing here?
tlshawks is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 22 Old 03-26-2018, 03:09 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: North Dallas area and UP of MI
Posts: 681
Post Thanks / Like
Thanks (Given): 14
Thanks (Received): 61
Likes (Given): 53
Likes (Received): 167
Does that engine have the small intermediate manifold between the carb and the block, as in the H70? If so, then there are two sets of bolts - the ones attaching the carb to the small manifold (which are actually loose bolts that it in a recess in the back of the manifold) and also Phillips headed bolts, iirc, that attach the manifold to the block . . . (I think on mine, the star washers were behind the bolt heads, and not the nuts, which may explain why yours spin . . .).

- Tim

Last edited by tadawson; 03-27-2018 at 07:28 AM.
tadawson is online now  
Post Thanks / Like - 0 Thanks, 1 Likes, 0 Dislikes
Likes classiccat liked this post
post #3 of 22 Old 03-26-2018, 04:27 PM
Senior Member
 
Jackmels's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Ma.
Posts: 1,926
Post Thanks / Like
Thanks (Given): 98
Thanks (Received): 151
Likes (Given): 290
Likes (Received): 601
Fuel inlet Interferes w/The RH Screw. A Long Thin Screwdriver is what you need to get in there. A little Heat Wouldn't hurt, as long as there's no Gas Present. GL.
Jackmels is offline  
Post Thanks / Like - 0 Thanks, 1 Likes, 0 Dislikes
Likes classiccat liked this post
post #4 of 22 Old 03-26-2018, 05:39 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
tlshawks's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Cedar Rapids IA
Posts: 613
Post Thanks / Like
Thanks (Given): 24
Thanks (Received): 32
Likes (Given): 43
Likes (Received): 216
Garage
Yes, the H50 appears at a glance to be exactly like an H70 in how the carb is mounted.

That second manifold screw, the right side one - that's an acute angle all right. I admit, I didn't try a smaller Phillips because of the large Phillips heads those two have. I needed the largest head Phillips screwdriver I had to get the left one loose.

I'm afraid I'll strip the right side screw - but I'm beginning to think I have no other choice but to at least try it.



Edit - I tried heating it up, still no go. With the proper tipped screwdriver, I cannot get enough torque to turn the screw and endanger stripping the head. With a smaller tipped driver, doesn't hold at all.

All I can think of is somehow cutting the nuts off between the nut and carb mounting base - appears there's star washers between the nuts and carb. It'll mean I'll need new studs and if the manifold threads are bad, maybe that too. This is what I was hoping to avoid - tearing up effectively everything that bolts to the block itself just to remove the carb.

Sigh...frustrating.

Last edited by tlshawks; 03-26-2018 at 07:41 PM.
tlshawks is offline  
post #5 of 22 Old 03-26-2018, 07:58 PM
Senior Member
 
JLawrence08648's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Lawrenceville NJ
Posts: 2,106
Post Thanks / Like
Thanks (Given): 88
Thanks (Received): 174
Likes (Given): 68
Likes (Received): 406
Garage
Of course penetrating oil, several times a day, then for a few days, maybe different brands, can try a mix of alcohol and auto trans fluid.

Also take the large Phillips and bang it with a hammer as an impact wrench. Also can try an impact wrench, the banging may work.

1986 Ariens ST522, 5hp, 22"
1995 Murray Craftsman 10hp, 29" w. 12" impeller
A 1983 Real John Deere 10hp, 32" w. 12" impeller, 16" auger, 20" high front, cast iron gear box, chains
Noma 9hp, 27" w. 12" impeller
Noma 5hp, 24" w. 12" impeller, 20" high front
Gravely Convertible, 12hp Kohler cast iron, 26" width, 600 lbs of cast iron & steel, 2 speed impeller, 4 ground speeds
Dynamark 8hp, 26", 12" impeller, for sale
Several other 5hp, 8hp, several 2 cycle, all for sale
JLawrence08648 is offline  
post #6 of 22 Old 03-27-2018, 06:59 AM
Senior Member
 
classiccat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Albany, New York
Posts: 1,552
Post Thanks / Like
Thanks (Given): 177
Thanks (Received): 156
Likes (Given): 1632
Likes (Received): 381
You're on the right track trying to remove the entire carb/manifold assy from the block.

If I recall for the stubborn ones (specifically the one on the right), I've used a #2 driver bit, put some inward pressure on it using a large screwdriver leveraged against the fuel inlet, then turn the bit with a 1/4" open-ended wrench. The L/S screw should be a straight shot with a long screwdriver.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
('72 Sears 3520)

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
('89 Toro 824)

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
('70 Allis-Chalmers Tracker-7)

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
('80 Toro 724)

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
('95 Ariens ST724) --> Sold

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
('71 Ariens 910965 SnoThro 524)
classiccat is offline  
post #7 of 22 Old 03-27-2018, 08:38 AM
Senior Member
 
JLawrence08648's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Lawrenceville NJ
Posts: 2,106
Post Thanks / Like
Thanks (Given): 88
Thanks (Received): 174
Likes (Given): 68
Likes (Received): 406
Garage
On occasion I've had a carb where the machine screws were tough and I was going to strip the Phillips head of the screw. I took the manifold off the engine and being in the bench and the rear being more accessible, I was able to put a vise grip on the screw head and a wrench on the nut.

1986 Ariens ST522, 5hp, 22"
1995 Murray Craftsman 10hp, 29" w. 12" impeller
A 1983 Real John Deere 10hp, 32" w. 12" impeller, 16" auger, 20" high front, cast iron gear box, chains
Noma 9hp, 27" w. 12" impeller
Noma 5hp, 24" w. 12" impeller, 20" high front
Gravely Convertible, 12hp Kohler cast iron, 26" width, 600 lbs of cast iron & steel, 2 speed impeller, 4 ground speeds
Dynamark 8hp, 26", 12" impeller, for sale
Several other 5hp, 8hp, several 2 cycle, all for sale
JLawrence08648 is offline  
post #8 of 22 Old 03-27-2018, 09:20 AM
Senior Member
 
Jackmels's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Ma.
Posts: 1,926
Post Thanks / Like
Thanks (Given): 98
Thanks (Received): 151
Likes (Given): 290
Likes (Received): 601
Chisel the Aluminum Manifold Off. I'll send You a Replacement for cost of Postage.
Jackmels is offline  
Post Thanks / Like - 0 Thanks, 2 Likes, 0 Dislikes
Likes Grunt, orangputeh liked this post
post #9 of 22 Old 03-27-2018, 10:07 AM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2018
Posts: 259
Post Thanks / Like
Thanks (Given): 3
Thanks (Received): 43
Likes (Given): 6
Likes (Received): 110
For screws that are hard to get anything into and not moving what I have done on many occasions is take 1 of my old long drift punches that I have ground one side at a 45 degree angle and using the sharp side go to the top left side of the screw and start tapping the drift in a manner that lets it start to bite into the screw ledge and when it has a decent perch then increase hammer hit pressure(not wail or beat) and most times it will spin the bolt or screw. I prefer the the round drifts not only for the length but as well for the rounded cutting edge that you get after grinding , this gives you a high center point on the edge can be relocated in a very small area for max bite/ grip. I do like these instead of chisels just for room and having the edge closer to the center of the punch, so you have more control. I have picked up many drifts at yard sales etc and even hardware dollar sales and now have a complete set from 1/8 " up to 3/8" ground only for this purpose .
Lottstodo is offline  
post #10 of 22 Old 03-27-2018, 01:07 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
tlshawks's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Cedar Rapids IA
Posts: 613
Post Thanks / Like
Thanks (Given): 24
Thanks (Received): 32
Likes (Given): 43
Likes (Received): 216
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by classiccat View Post
You're on the right track trying to remove the entire carb/manifold assy from the block.

If I recall for the stubborn ones (specifically the one on the right), I've used a #2 driver bit, put some inward pressure on it using a large screwdriver leveraged against the fuel inlet, then turn the bit with a 1/4" open-ended wrench. The L/S screw should be a straight shot with a long screwdriver.
I've been thinking along these lines, either doing this or an angled screwdriver. Waiting for tomorrow when it's 20 degrees warmer.

Jack, I get the feeling I'm going to need your help in a replacement manifold with studs no matter what. I'll post back after I give this issue the ol' college try.
tlshawks is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome