Honda HS828 WAS Frankenblower - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
 
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post #1 of 9 Old 04-30-2018, 11:50 AM Thread Starter
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Honda HS828 WAS Frankenblower

I'm new to the forum.

I recently purchased a used Honda HS828 WAS (from 1995, Serial # SZAK 20244xx), from a person that repaired snowblowers (maybe as a hobby). He had a fair number of snowblowers, so he obviously was not selling one of his personal blowers.

Anyway, I got it at a good price. I had to unfreeze the rusted augers (fair amount of work), and replace the impeller bearing and one of the auger bearings (which were starting to go bad), and a number of screws and bolts that were not designed for that Honda on that Auger assembly (as if it was cobbled together from spare parts).

I also ordered some replacement Wheel Pins (8x35) for it. While the wheel pins goes through Lock Bolt Boss, it does not go through the Auger Shaft, which seems to be a 7mm hole, not 8mm as the pins I purchased based upon my model's serial #.

Based upon the rust on the auger shaft, lack of any anti-sieze on it, the wrong size Wheel Pins, I believe that this entire Auger Assembly and Transmission was never repaired (ever) and was from a different unit that was put into my snow blower.

So in reality, I have a Frankenblower!

If I put a 7mm wheel pin through each Lock Bolt Boss and Auger Shaft, the auger can wiggle a little bit because the Lock Bolt Boss has an 8mm hole.

Is this normal for serial number models that have the 7mm auger shaft hole?
Should the Lock Bolt Boss be changed to a different version with a 7mm hole (or alternatively, should I drill out the auger shaft with an 8mm hole - my last preference I think)

Thanks!
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post #2 of 9 Old 04-30-2018, 12:02 PM
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you got this from a guy who repaired snowblowers??? He must have been a hobbyist. like you said.

It's not a wheel pin that goes in there. It's called , I think, the cam lock pin. Check the parts diagram on boats.net or wherever you are ordering it.

In my opinion , you will have to find the right size pin to use as any slop will just make those smaller pins break all the time. Also , how are the holes on the augers for the the little shear pins? Are they elongated? Probably. Then you should weld those holes shut and drill a new hole. Those pins will break all the time also if you don't do that.

Do you have any pictures? It sounds like the machine I got for 50 buckeroos. I have taken it completely apart and am redoing it. So far I only have another $120 into it . Most of everything else is my labor which is free. The reason I am doing this is because the compression was solid and the transmission works as it should. Otherwise It would have been a parts machine.

Fun , isn't it?

Please keep us updated. I love hearing stories on restores.......and welcome to the SBF.

"It Feels Like Beer O'Clock "
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post #3 of 9 Old 04-30-2018, 01:10 PM
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OP,

I think the augers transmission shaft boss lock and pins were upgraded from 8 to 7mm at some point and you can no longer get a shaft with 8mm holes. The shaft or the tranny had been replaced at some point and the boss lock should’ve been replaced along with it (usually sold as a kit).

I wouldn’t really say you have a frankenblower.

I would buy new boss lock with 7mm holes and 7mm pins and be done with it.
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post #4 of 9 Old 04-30-2018, 02:35 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by orangputeh View Post
It's not a wheel pin that goes in there. It's called , I think, the cam lock pin. Check the parts diagram on boats.net or wherever you are ordering it.
I've attached drawing which shows the pin 9 (and 11 washer) and that's the same number and "wheel pin" is what it's called on multiple popular order sites.

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Originally Posted by orangputeh View Post
In my opinion , you will have to find the right size pin to use as any slop will just make those smaller pins break all the time. Also , how are the holes on the augers for the the little shear pins? Are they elongated? Probably. Then you should weld those holes shut and drill a new hole. Those pins will break all the time also if you don't do that.
That's good information. I was worried about the slop being an issue. I've attached pictures of the augers pulled away from the holes so you can see. (That's Copaslip anti-seize on the shaft)

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Originally Posted by orangputeh View Post
Do you have any pictures? It sounds like the machine I got for 50 buckeroos. I have taken it completely apart and am redoing it. So far I only have another $120 into it . Most of everything else is my labor which is free. The reason I am doing this is because the compression was solid and the transmission works as it should. Otherwise It would have been a parts machine.
Pictures of the whole machine I can't take today because of the rain. But I'll post them later. It looks pretty good (especially compared to your rusted hulk HS828 I saw you post in the Honda section - ). Just a few small rust spots here and there. If he had repainted it, they wouldn't be there, so I can be pretty sure it's original.

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Originally Posted by orangputeh View Post
Fun , isn't it?

Please keep us updated. I love hearing stories on restores.......and welcome to the SBF.
Fun? I'm not sure of that, but I love learning new things, so I'll go with that! Removing one of the augers (left) required multiple heating of the shaft, a lot of banging, and blowing out the rust. But I learned something.

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Originally Posted by YSHSfan View Post
I think the augers transmission shaft boss lock and pins were upgraded from 8 to 7mm at some point and you can no longer get a shaft with 8mm holes. The shaft or the tranny had been replaced at some point and the boss lock should’ve been replaced along with it (usually sold as a kit).
I'm not sure, but I can't explain how the wrong Lock Bolt Boss ended up on the auger shaft, because the rust was probably on for decades, including the Lock Bolt Boss, unless a change was done early in it's lifetime. But why would someone do that? I know the person I bought it from couldn't have changed it recently.

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Originally Posted by YSHSfan View Post
I wouldn’t really say you have a frankenblower.
Maybe "Bride of Frankenblower" then?

Quote:
Originally Posted by YSHSfan View Post
I would buy new boss lock with 7mm holes and 7mm pins and be done with it.
Well based upon yours and orangputeh's input, it sounds like the best course of action is to replace the Lock Bolt Boss on both sides. Thank you so much for proper guidance.

P.S. Where does a post like this normally go in the forum? Is it better in the Honda Snowblowers forum area vs Snowblower Repairs and Maintenance Forum?

Thanks again.
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post #5 of 9 Old 04-30-2018, 04:50 PM
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great pictures and yes I defer to YSHSfan's advice since he has 10 times more experience than me. He also posted an excellent tutorial on removing stuck augers if you ever want an easier way to do it.

You could post this in the Honda forum or keep it where it is at. It will show up in the "New Posts" section

And yes, it is fun for me to do restores and I am always learning new things here. That is why I became a lifetime member. Have easily saved thousands in repairs if i had to take my machines to the Honda dealer.

Looking forward to your pictures of the whole machine.

"It Feels Like Beer O'Clock "
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post #6 of 9 Old 04-30-2018, 06:02 PM
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OP,

It would be best on the Honda forum as it is a Honda snowblower specific topic.
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post #7 of 9 Old 04-30-2018, 06:33 PM
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Looks like Honda changed to a 7mm pin within your model range but after your serial number:

#9 - PIN, WHEEL (8X35) (Honda Code 0937649).
Use up to Frame SN 2026451. | 90757-729-000

#9 - PIN (7X40) (Honda Code 4914982).
Use from Frame SN 2026452. | 90757-767-000


All Years HS828K1 WAS Honda Snowblower AUGER Diagram and Parts

Honda HS828TAS (1991) – Made in Japan with Thai built GX240
Honda HSS1332ATD (Late-2015) – Made in USA with Thai built GX390

180" to a rare 350" of snow per year (Alberta Clippers & Lake Michigan), 644' gravel driveway, 2 vehicle parking areas, 500' of trails around small house with an unheated garage.
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post #8 of 9 Old 04-30-2018, 10:25 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jrom View Post
Looks like Honda changed to a 7mm pin within your model range but after your serial number:
Yes I know. I don't imagine Honda could have ever messed up with a 7mm hole shaft with an 8mm Lock Bolt Boss.

As an engineer, I've tried to figure out how the rusted augers and wrong lock bolt bosses ever ended up that way, and I don't like a mystery!

Oh well. At least I have a workable solution.

Thanks to all.
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post #9 of 9 Old 04-30-2018, 11:01 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by orangputeh View Post
...I defer to YSHSfan's advice...... He also posted an excellent tutorial on removing stuck augers if you ever want an easier way to do it.
I actually had read that prior to working on the augers. I had tried PB on both ends from the boss side and the bearing side of the augers over many, many days and maybe that helped, but I can't be sure.

However, pitting one auger against the other, with 2x4x6' scrap pieces of wood through each, gave me the leverage to free one auger, then a pipe wrench freed the 2 lock bolt bosses, which left me with the final auger to remove.

Putting the shaft in a vise with a both a Grade 8 1/4" bolt and a steel punch through a boss and shaft and trying to free the auger ended up with a bent bolt and broken punch! Heating the auger, banging it, blowing the dust out, and repeating along with a large pry bar finally got the auger freed.
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