Mlti ratio 2 cycle oils and multi use ash and ashless - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
 
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post #1 of 4 Old 06-06-2018, 10:39 PM Thread Starter
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Mlti ratio 2 cycle oils and multi use ash and ashless

I don't know a lot about 2 cycle oils but some equipment calls for ashless 2 cycle oil, TC-W3 oil, the most common manufacturer name that uses this oil is Toro for at least their 2 cycle snowblowers.

There are also different ratios for oils. Years ago the 2 cycle ratio was 16:1, then it went to 20 and & 24:1 but only for a short time. It went to 32:1 for a long time, then 40:1 and 50:1. My understanding some are even higher at 70:1.

And before 2 cycle oils existed, the recommended oil was 30wt ND (non-detergent) which believe it or not, you can still BUY! And for a lawnmower, there is no need for a detergent oil, you can feel comfortable using 30ND. It's just a sump lubricating the connecting rod crank bearing and the lower cylinder wall.

There are some 2 cycle oils when mixed at one ratio can be used in equipment that calls for different ratios. Below re 2 links to such oils, Opti2 and Valvoline. Possibly there are others. They also make the claim that you can use this in equipment that calls for ashless 2 cycle oil. I have no idea if this is the right thing or not.

2 cycle oil - Opti2, Opti4, and Opti-Mizer MAX - Premium Lubricants from Interlube International


The Valvoline link below claims it is for both TC-W3 and Jaso-FB rated and works in all 2 stroke equipment. Air cooled, small equipment and water cooled, large marine equipment all the same. Autozone almost always has it in stock for about 6 bucks per quart. I may give it a try next time I need some 2 stroke oil.

https://www.valvoline.com/our-produc...oke-engine-oil

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post #2 of 4 Old 06-07-2018, 07:21 AM
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QUOTE=JLawrence08648;1590649]And before 2 cycle oils existed, the recommended oil was 30wt ND (non-detergent) which believe it or not, you can still BUY! And for a lawnmower, there is no need for a detergent oil, you can feel comfortable using 30ND. It's just a sump lubricating the connecting rod crank bearing and the lower cylinder wall.l[/QUOTE]

???? Small engine manufacturers have recommended detergent crankcase oils from at least the early mid '60's that I know of.
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post #3 of 4 Old 06-07-2018, 12:28 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DriverRider View Post
QUOTE=JLawrence08648;1590649]And before 2 cycle oils existed, the recommended oil was 30wt ND (non-detergent) which believe it or not, you can still BUY! And for a lawnmower, there is no need for a detergent oil, you can feel comfortable using 30ND. It's just a sump lubricating the connecting rod crank bearing and the lower cylinder wall.l
???? Small engine manufacturers have recommended detergent crankcase oils from at least the early mid '60's that I know of.[/QUOTE]

I'll still stand by my statement for oil for a lawnmower. Buy whatever is the cheapest, whether detergent or non detergent. The lawnmower will last. It's only a sump and the oil has no passage ways to go through, no rocker arm assembly as in a car with passage ways, it only has to lubricate one journal bearing and the cylinder wall. What is the specific need for a detergent oil in a lawnmower? Though my preferred oil is a 30wt oil and generally I buy detergent because it's cheaper. A 30wt may thicken a little in the colder fall weather but I'm cutting the lawn only a few times then and put up with it.

I do use Synthetic in my snowblower only for the ease of starting thickness of the oil.

1986 Ariens ST522, 5hp, 22"
1995 Murray Craftsman 10hp, 29" w. 12" impeller
A 1983 Real John Deere 10hp, 32" w. 12" impeller, 16" auger, 20" high front, cast iron gear box, chains
Noma 9hp, 27" w. 12" impeller
Noma 5hp, 24" w. 12" impeller, 20" high front
Gravely Convertible, 12hp Kohler cast iron, 26" width, 600 lbs of cast iron & steel, 2 speed impeller, 4 ground speeds
Dynamark 8hp, 26", 12" impeller, for sale
Several other 5hp, 8hp, several 2 cycle, all for sale
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post #4 of 4 Old 06-08-2018, 02:43 AM
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the oil discussion can be a real pain in the ash. But that's ok.
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