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post #1 of 26 Old 10-27-2018, 08:30 PM Thread Starter
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First time owner maintenance questions

My Ariens 28 sho arrives tues. New to blowers and very excited to throw my first white rooster tail.

Couple questions about fuel, break-in, and oil.

1. Fuel and storage

I found a shell station near me that sells 91 ethanol free, so I plan to run that. Should I run a fuel stabilizer as well? I’m gonna get a new 2.5 gallon can and try to use it in 4-6 weeks. If not, dump it in my car and get fresh. Can cars handle stabil or a similar stabilizer? I here a lot of conflicting advise about draining the tank in spring or leaving it full with stabilizer.

2. Oil, break-in, and grease

From what I’ve read, it seems like most folks run the original oil for 5hrs and change to synthetic. I have always used Mobil 1 in cars. Should I idle the engine for an hour or 2 before I start moving snow? Would it be better to do a break in and change the oil before blowing?

Lastly, do I need to hit the zerks before I use it? Or is everything greased up for the first season?

Oh yeah, and do you guys use chute lube? (huh-huh) I was gonna try the Ariens stuff.

Any advice Appreciated

Last edited by fluxcapacitor121; 10-27-2018 at 08:33 PM.
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post #2 of 26 Old 10-27-2018, 08:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fluxcapacitor121 View Post
My Ariens 28 sho arrives tues. New to blowers and very excited to throw my first white rooster tail.

Couple questions about fuel, break-in, and oil.

1. Fuel and storage

I found a shell station near me that sells 91 ethanol free, so I plan to run that. Should I run a fuel stabilizer as well? I’m gonna get a new 2.5 gallon can and try to use it in 4-6 weeks. If not, dump it in my car and get fresh. Can cars handle stabil or a similar stabilizer? I here a lot of conflicting advise about draining the tank in spring or leaving it full with stabilizer.
no to fuel stabilizer if using 91 ethanol free, and should be good for well over a year, some say for years.
but use the winter grade when its available, should be soon.
fuel stabilizers are needed if gas is not used for months due to ethanol water absorption which messes up the carbs and gunks up the fuel.
yes cars can handle fuel stabilizer.
ive never bought a new one so cant answer the other questions

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Last edited by vinnycom; 10-27-2018 at 08:49 PM.
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post #3 of 26 Old 10-27-2018, 08:57 PM
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1 hr no more then 2 hours put in 5w/30 full synthetic
readjust belts
tighten check all bolts
buy a cheap tach/hr meter

impeller kit
if you want to get the rpms up 250 to 300 move gov spring to outside hole
i would break it in pre snow
you could idle the throttle a few times if you wanted

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post #4 of 26 Old 10-28-2018, 12:29 AM
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See the fluid film thread here instead of ariens spray.
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post #5 of 26 Old 10-28-2018, 02:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fluxcapacitor121 View Post
1. Fuel and storage

I found a shell station near me that sells 91 ethanol free, so I plan to run that. Should I run a fuel stabilizer as well? I’m gonna get a new 2.5 gallon can and try to use it in 4-6 weeks. If not, dump it in my car and get fresh. Can cars handle stabil or a similar stabilizer? I here a lot of conflicting advise about draining the tank in spring or leaving it full with stabilizer.
Just to offer another alternative, I keep a supply of 'Trufuel' in my garage. It's 100% ethanol free and comes in 110oz tins. It remains usable for 2 years when opened and 5 years+ unopened. I get mine from Lowes. It's more expensive than sourcing ethanol free fuel at a petrol / gas station but the convenience factor is very high. It means I could run for several hours in a snowstorm if I got caught out without (stabilised) fuel in the garage. FAQ Trufuel link ay bottom of page.

I drained the fuel completely out of my engine at the end of last season, draining the whole syetem through the carb. Let the engine run out any remaining fuel and then switch the fuel line to 'off'.

I put about 2 quarts of Trufuel in my engine 2 weeks ago and it started up first time. That fuel will be OK now in my engine for at least 18 months / 2 years. I don't have to worry about fuel stabilisers nor asking myself how long has the fuel been in the engine, etc. Although I do keep written notes about what fuel I have added in Parker's log.

I'll then then keep 5 gallons of regular (with ethanol) fuel with stabiliser added in a container in the garage. If we get a snowfall, I can add this fuel to Parker if necessary.

Come the end of the season, if I don't use the stabilised 5 gallons, I'll empty it into my car. If Parker hasn't had stabilised fuel added to him during the season, I'll simply switch the fuel to 'off' and then then let the engine run any fuel out of the carb before storage. (Although with 'Trufuel' that last step isn't strictly necessary.)

If I have added stabilised fuel to Parker during the season, come the end of season I'll drain the whole system through the carb and put that fuel in my car.

That's my fuel storage system and it's the one I've also used for my Honda generator for many years. The only difference with the generator though is that I keep 10 gallons of stabilised fuel on hand through the whole year as storms / outtages can of course come at any time.

https://trufuel50.com/faqs/

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Last edited by SkunkyLawnmowers; 10-28-2018 at 02:51 AM. Reason: So that it makes sense
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post #6 of 26 Old 10-28-2018, 06:51 AM
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Yes run Stabil 360 fuel stabilizer. Run the blower 1 season then change the oil. you'll be just fine.
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post #7 of 26 Old 10-28-2018, 08:01 AM
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Read your owners manual.
I don't see the need for stabilizer for non-E gas but it sure wouldn't hurt.
For chute lube I sometimes use cheap cooking spray because I'm cheap.

Joe

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post #8 of 26 Old 10-28-2018, 10:02 AM
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In terms of oil changes, I've heard suggestions to wait maybe 10 hours before going to synthetic oil. As I understand it, you want to use conventional oil while the piston rings are seating. *Then* go synthetic.

So changing the oil after an hour or 2, to remove any break-in metal, is a great idea. But I'd use conventional oil for at least that first change, and wait maybe 10 hours or so before going synthetic.

From some reading on engine break-in (hasn't been much of a research topic for me, I don't think I've bought any outdoor equipment new ), it sounds like you want to vary the load some, and don't just hammer the engine right away. So even if the first storm was a big one, maybe you go kinda slow, and/or take partial-width cuts, to avoid putting a constant, full load on the engine (the kind of load where it's slowing down, because it's out of power).

I'd still probably put stabilizer in the non-ethanol fuel, if I had stabilizer around. It can't hurt, and it's cheap insurance. If it has a fuel shutoff, you can run the carb dry at the end of each storm, if you want. I used to do that (with stabilized fuel), now I don't bother, I only run the carb dry at the end of the season. But running the carb dry should probably just mean another 1-2 pulls to start it the next time, so there isn't a big drawback to doing it each time, if you wanted.

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post #9 of 26 Old 10-28-2018, 10:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedOctobyr View Post
In terms of oil changes, I've heard suggestions to wait maybe 10 hours before going to synthetic oil. As I understand it, you want to use conventional oil while the piston rings are seating. *Then* go synthetic.

So changing the oil after an hour or 2, to remove any break-in metal, is a great idea. But I'd use conventional oil for at least that first change, and wait maybe 10 hours or so before going synthetic.

From some reading on engine break-in (hasn't been much of a research topic for me, I don't think I've bought any outdoor equipment new ), it sounds like you want to vary the load some, and don't just hammer the engine right away. So even if the first storm was a big one, maybe you go kinda slow, and/or take partial-width cuts, to avoid putting a constant, full load on the engine (the kind of load where it's slowing down, because it's out of power).
^ this; you'll want to break it in with some snow load. that first oil change will look like a unicorn threw-up in the sump. I like to flush as much of the "glitter" out before going syn.


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post #10 of 26 Old 10-28-2018, 12:01 PM
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Rings dont take that long to break in 5 hrs at most

not running a new motor 10 hrs without knowing whats in the sump 2 hrs max

might also check you gas tank for shavings from drilling of the holes many have shavings i removed mine with a magnet
if you change it at 2 hrs to take a look see then again at 5 hrs that would be smart if there was lil to nothing in it at 5 hrs you are set
if it was me id do 3 cycles warm it up 3 min 15 min on max 2 min on idle shut it off let cool off start it up max rpm 18 min 2 min on idle do that 1 more time and change the oil
then change it again at 5 hrs

I see no instrutions to break it in under load
since the lct has only 2 settings max and idle you w\ill have to varie the throttle
some lct have no throttle and get broken in at max rpm

Can someone show me where it says to break it in under load
you could wait the 5 hrs or 10 hrs and be fine

myself i would want the shat out of my engine quicker and then rechange the oil
its just and extra quart of oil
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