Problems with my newly purchased Ariens snowblower - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
 
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post #1 of 10 Old 11-10-2018, 07:08 PM Thread Starter
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Problems with my newly purchased Ariens snowblower

Sooo I found myself in the situation of having sold my Stiga Snowblower since I figured I didn't need it and then my ATV broke down and I found myself missing it. I went and bought myself a used Ariens. From the model/serial numbers 924029/018230 I take it is a Deluxe Sno-thro model from the year 1978 and it is 8HP. I bought it because the price was good and I thought some tender love will get it working reliably. As of now it is a little difficult to start and runs poorly with some fiddling with the choke and gas. Apparently it had been standing for 9 years since the owner died so it runs on gas that is a decade old... The owner is said to have been meticulous about his machines and it looks extremely well-maintained without wear on worm gears and so on.

I just got it so it is still on the trailer under a tarp. My plan is to change the oil in the engine and whateveritiscalledinenglish in the front, remove the fuel tank, drain and clean it, new gas goes in. New spark plug. Clean the carburettor as is with just carburettor cleaner, not tear it apart if not needed. Lubricate all lube points and just go to work.

Is there something else I should think of when putting a newly-woken machine to work? Special tweaks? And also, if it still runs poorly after the aforementioned quick service, what are the next steps to take? I also have an Ariens Tiller from 1962 that just started (Deleted by Admin) with me one day and it didn't come around until I replaced the ignition module with a modern electronic one and a couple years later it started acting up and I had to replace a membrane in the carb. What are the typical problems for these '70s Ariensses?

Thankful for any advice or input, so far I am happy with a sturdy old machine that I think will serve me just fine once I give it what it needs.

Last edited by HCBPH; 02-06-2019 at 06:56 AM. Reason: Profanity Deleted by admin
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post #2 of 10 Old 11-10-2018, 07:17 PM
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Welcome my friend, easy on the F-bombs, I'll think I'm still at work...

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post #3 of 10 Old 11-10-2018, 07:52 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you!


Will watch that foul mouth from now on.
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post #4 of 10 Old 11-10-2018, 07:59 PM
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Get some ethanol free gas and run some Sea Foam in tank. Run it for about 15 minutes! Yea, change the oil too.

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Ariens - 924086 - ST1028
Craftsman - 88934 - 10HP 28"
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post #5 of 10 Old 11-11-2018, 05:02 PM
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Since it has been unused for 9 years the cylinder may be rusted. I would put some oil in the cylinder(or better use fogging oil to coat more areas) and turn the engine over without the spark plug to clean up the cylinder, rings and piston. You don't want to put a load on the engine with rusty internals.

The belts may well be cracked from age. The pulleys (wheel drive, impeller drive and impeller driven) will be rusted if made of steel and could damage a new belt. Check that the auger will turn when the shear bolts are removed since the auger may be rusted to the shaft. The trans will need cleaning and greasing, especially the gear selector shaft. Adjustments will be required to the various controls. Check the skid shoes are serviceable.

After emptying the fuel tank and carb fit a spark tester in the spark plug HT circuit and confirm you have a spark, best done with spark plug out and grounded so engine can be spun fast. If no spark then check the magneto pickup on the flywheel since that is probably rusted and may not be working well. Clean the surfaces with fine grit so all rust is removed. The magneto ignition is very reliable so not your first thought for replacement. Use a new spark plug and ensure wire does not have any damage or cracking, if so you will need a new magneto.

You would be better to get a carb kit and remove the carb to replace the float bowl needle and seat. Check all the circuits and remove what you can to clean properly. Ensure the float does not have a hole from corrosion and set up for correct fuel level. Usually float being level with carb body when inverted. The fuel hoses should be replaced with good new ones since fuel is different from years ago and may damage it. If there is a filter replace it.

Good luck.

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post #6 of 10 Old 11-11-2018, 05:31 PM
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Since it's time you might need it I'd only do things that are easy and not take anything apart you don't need to other than to inspect. If it's running ok leave it alone until spring when you can tear it down and don't have to worry that the ATV might die and you're out of luck with the Ariens half way through rebuilding the carb or something. Should it need belts or a carb overhaul that's another matter but being it's November IMHO it's time to use them more than repair them.

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post #7 of 10 Old 02-06-2019, 05:31 AM Thread Starter
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So, the ATV has behaved and other projects have had priority so I just now got back on the blower again, want it out of my beloved new shop and move other stuff in. I have drained the old gasoline and put fresh in with a tad of ignition cleaner (it was what I had lying around, I figured cleaners work in about the same way). Replaced a bad fuel line plus the spark plug and lubed her up good, it is really well maintained and everything is tight and good and moves well. A fuel valve wouldn't move so opened that up and cleaned the threads.

It starts easily now, maybe I was just unused to how the choke and gas should be handled at first. But the symptoms remain the same. It runs and sounds fine but for a limited time. Full throttle kills it. Half throttle can run it for a bit. If I want to propel it or run the knives (or whatever the throwing thingys are called in English) I can do so for a bit on low throttle but it seems any time it needs more gas it dies. On lowest throttle it runs nicely for several minutes but eventually it dies only to start up fine again so the process can be repeated.

To my mind it seems fuel distribution is hindered somehow, like it gets fuel but through a blockage and after a while it gasps for more before stalling. Fuel lines are good so was thinking of removing the carb and check what Town mentioned, then give it some time in an ultrasonic cleaner. Unless the knowledgeable folks around here have any other checkpoints I should cover?


A couple other things: There is no fuel filter on the machine. As I removed a hood I noticed there is no air filter either and from the exploding diagrams in the manual I downloaded it seems there shuldn't be one either. Is this normal on blowers? It feels weird that you can throw stuff right into the carb.

EDIT: Whoa, I updated the page and it posted itself.... Ah well, will drop back with a pic of something that looks weird to me. For now, a jolly good early morning to you folks in the US.

Last edited by Colorblend; 02-06-2019 at 05:36 AM.
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post #8 of 10 Old 02-06-2019, 05:10 PM
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There is usually a strainer attached to the fuel fitting in bottom of tank where the hose feeds the carb. It can be removed and if partially blocked may account for the engine not running for long.

There is no air filter but there should be a metal housing around the carb and its inlet so you cannot see the carb normally. The metal housing is to provide some warmth for the carb and prevent snow from getting in. The cold and snow will ice up the carb and stall the engine.

Good luck.

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post #9 of 10 Old 02-11-2019, 05:45 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Town View Post
There is usually a strainer attached to the fuel fitting in bottom of tank where the hose feeds the carb. It can be removed and if partially blocked may account for the engine not running for long.

There is no air filter but there should be a metal housing around the carb and its inlet so you cannot see the carb normally. The metal housing is to provide some warmth for the carb and prevent snow from getting in. The cold and snow will ice up the carb and stall the engine.

Good luck.
Thank you. The strainer I fixed before, it was stuck and when some force was used the grooved handle came loose, I disassembled it and cleaned it and now it opens fine although pliers are needed to close it tight. The metal housing you mention was there so that was just me being unclear about it, the chassi is complete although partly disassembled now.

So what I have done so far: Complete lube-job. Disassembled the carb and cleaned the parts thoroughly in an ultrasonic cleaner, then lubed it up good and reassembled. The idle mixture screw was bent and I straightened it with pliers, looked good. It got better, runs for long periods of time now but still not good. From a youtube video (I never really fiddled around with carburettors much so I am a complete newbie) I got some info and has done this:

1. Turned the idle mixture screw to closed and turned it back one and a quarter turns.
2. Adjusted the main mixture screw between "stall points" until the engine ran as smooth as I could make it, almost perfect.
3. Adjusted the idle setting or whatever it is called (above the idle mixture screw) until I achieved a nice, high and even idle. At this point everything looks good.

But still it will stutter or stall when I demand a bit more from it. When I sloowly raise the throttle lever it will increase in RPMs to a point when it starts to stutter and if I back off quickly it will stutter back to normal after a few seconds, if I don't back off it dies. It will then need a push or two on the primer to start again. I tried pushing the throttle lever to the point of the engine stalling and started pumping the primer and then it would keep going. As I pushed the throttle even further beyond that point the engine would actually keep running and increase the RPMs, although with some sparks flying out of the muffler.... So it seems the engine runs as long as you force fuel into it.

Why may this be? I have little experience with carburettors apart from just turning screws randomly until stuff works but this time I can't quite get it to work. The fuel lines are fine, partially replaced. The carb is well cleaned and lubed and I tried blowing in all the channels in it to make sure there was no blockage and it seems there are no parts that are clogged or stuck. I even tried removing the lid of the fuel tank in case that was clogged so no air could get get in but still the same symptoms.

On my ancient Ariens tiller I remember putting the linkage back wrong when I overhauled that and that made it run really strange although it still ran. Is it time for me to fiddle with the linkage that connects to the governor? I just can't see any blockages in the fuel line and I'm too inexperienced to figure things out past the point of cleaning and replacing obviously broken parts...
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post #10 of 10 Old 02-12-2019, 09:26 AM
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The main jet controls fuel flow from 3/4 throttle to full throttle. So it sounds like you have adjusted the main jet to run at much smaller throttle opening. With an adjustable main jet you need the engine at full throttle and under a load. So for me it is trial and error, others may have a better approach. I prefer the fixed main jet.

Up to 3/4 throttle the fuel is supplied with air through the emulsion tube which is above the main jet and opens to the carb bore at the venturi. Air flow is speeded up when passing through the restriction of the venturi and sucks the air fuel mixture with it. There are holes in the emulsion tube that mixes air from the carb body with the fuel from the main jet. The small air passages in the carb body may be blocked and sometimes are difficult to see as a result.

The idle circuit operates with an almost closed throttle using a bypass air channel on the open side of the throttle plate. Your idle fuel/air setting sounds OK.

Good luck.

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