Ariens 2014 Deluxe 24 Platinum Electrical Issue - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
 
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post #1 of 6 Old 11-15-2018, 11:24 AM Thread Starter
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Ariens 2014 Deluxe 24 Platinum Electrical Issue

2014 Deluxe 24 Platinum Electrical Issue



All summer long and into the fall, I made a point of starting and running my snowblower. It always started on the first pull and ran fine. Now, two days before a storm, I try it again and it won't start. You don't hear any ignition attempt - no almost starting or sputtering or anything.



I believe it's getting fuel because I pulled the spark plug and it was wet. I cleaned it off, put it back in, and tried starting again with no luck. I took the spark plug again out after this try and it was wet once again and you could smell gas.



I put in a new spark plug and got the same results.


I've got a spark plug tester but I can't use it because of the protective shield Ariens put on the spark plug lead. The shield protects the entire plug from the muffler and it's too deep to get a tester attached. I tried taking off the shield but it's crimped metal and near impossible to uncrimp.


But, my guess is that the problem is upstream of the spark plug and the tester wouldn't help anyway. That means (maybe) that it's the key switch, the rocker on/off switch or the ignition coil.



Does anyone have any info on the easiest way to get to these items and what a multimeter should show when examining these items?


Any nelp is appreciated.
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post #2 of 6 Old 11-15-2018, 12:17 PM
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You can test the spark plug the old fasion way, leave it in the boot, and place on metal to see if it sparks. Just be very carefull with fuel in area, and getting zapped !

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post #3 of 6 Old 11-15-2018, 12:23 PM
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to SBF plt24

It does sould like you don't have spark. Since it was running fine before I would check the wires at the key on the engine and at the throttle. The way the key and throttle stop an engine is to ground out the ignition and kill the spark. Maybe a wire came off a terminal and is grounding out the ignition.
The safety switch in the drawing isn't like the key on most setups. I'm guessing you have a plastic key that pushes in for it to run or pulls out to kill the engine. It's just hard plastic and what it does is spread two metal contacts apart so the magneto creates a spark or if you pull that key out they the contacts ground the magneto and no spark.
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Make sure the windows are up before the snow plow goes by !!

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post #4 of 6 Old 11-15-2018, 01:11 PM
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spray some starter fluid, brake/carb cleaner into carb, it should start within a few pulls, if not then no spark.
most common issue is the on/off switch and/or its wiring, bad spark plug wire/boot
least common is magneto/solenoid/timing

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post #5 of 6 Old 11-18-2018, 11:57 AM Thread Starter
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First, thanks to all who replied to help with the problem. Here's a followup.
Looking under the control panel of the blower, I saw that one terminal of the pushin/pull out key switch had no wire connected. It did have the end of a broken spade connector still on it. I found the wire that was supposed to be connected to the spade but then found that Ariens reputation for quality perhaps is no longer justified.
The wire I found came from somewhere in the upper section and then went directly to ground. There was a piece of metal on the wire which seemed to be top of the broken spade connector. I was going nuts trying to figure out how the connection was made without a splice and wire nut. I seldom do this stuff and all I could determine is that Ariens/LCT had simply used what a plumber would call a 'saddle valve' which simply punches a hole into a pipe and has an outlet valve. It's the cheapest way to tap a pipe for a water supply and the way most likely to leak. I could only assume that something like this exists for low voltage wiring.
The connector probably broke because the length of wire from the switch was barely long enough to reach the ground connector and likely failed under stress.
The only way to fix it was to rewire it correctly using wire nuts and pig tails but kiss4afrog's diagram seemed to say that wouldn't fix the starting problem. The key switch when the key is inserted eliminates the path to ground but the ground wire path was already permanently broken so it didn't seem (to my limited knowledge) that fixing it would solve the problem. That wire could have been broken for a long time because I never tried to stop the blower by removing the key.


So I decided to take off the front panel and check the on/off toggle switch wiring. To do this, the cover over the exhaust pipes has to be removed. Three of the four bolts holding it in place came out easily. The fourth was stripped and couldn't be removed. Either the factory stripped it on assembly or the repair shop which needed to work on warranty issues 4 different times stripped it. But I still decided to take out the four bolts holding the panel with the switches to see what could be found. Three bolts came out easily but you could tell the 4th was under some tension when it came out.



I found that without the exhaust cover removed, I couldn't see anything and decided to put it back together and call a shop that could get out the stripped bolt. Three of the bolts went in fine. The fourth, the one that came out strangely, could not be put back in. The sheet metal between the sections simply could not be aligned to get the bolt in. Trying variants of what order to reinstall the bolts had no effect. The best alignment came with the three other bolts in reasonably tight. This once again made me wonder about Ariens quality because I can't see how the repair shop could have messed this up.



Bottom line is that I'm handing it over to a repair shop. The other bottom line is that my opinion of Ariens has dropped considerably. I was in a hardware store that sells Husqvarnas. I noticed that the engine and engine controls were pretty much like my Ariens so I looked under to check how the Husqvarna wired the key switch. To my dismay, this supposedly lower quality manufacturer had done it as it should be done. Wire nuts and pig tails were in place and correct lengths of wire had been used. They actually had made a connection with a wire slightly longer than needed to make a wire nut installation easier. Pretty annoying that a cheaper brand would do what higher priced brand wouldn't.
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post #6 of 6 Old 11-18-2018, 12:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by plt24 View Post
First, thanks to all who replied to help with the problem. Here's a followup.
Looking under the control panel of the blower, I saw that one terminal of the pushin/pull out key switch had no wire connected. It did have the end of a broken spade connector still on it. I found the wire that was supposed to be connected to the spade but then found that Ariens reputation for quality perhaps is no longer justified.
The wire I found came from somewhere in the upper section and then went directly to ground. There was a piece of metal on the wire which seemed to be top of the broken spade connector. I was going nuts trying to figure out how the connection was made without a splice and wire nut. I seldom do this stuff and all I could determine is that Ariens/LCT had simply used what a plumber would call a 'saddle valve' which simply punches a hole into a pipe and has an outlet valve. It's the cheapest way to tap a pipe for a water supply and the way most likely to leak. I could only assume that something like this exists for low voltage wiring.
The connector probably broke because the length of wire from the switch was barely long enough to reach the ground connector and likely failed under stress.
The only way to fix it was to rewire it correctly using wire nuts and pig tails but kiss4afrog's diagram seemed to say that wouldn't fix the starting problem. The key switch when the key is inserted eliminates the path to ground but the ground wire path was already permanently broken so it didn't seem (to my limited knowledge) that fixing it would solve the problem. That wire could have been broken for a long time because I never tried to stop the blower by removing the key.


So I decided to take off the front panel and check the on/off toggle switch wiring. To do this, the cover over the exhaust pipes has to be removed. Three of the four bolts holding it in place came out easily. The fourth was stripped and couldn't be removed. Either the factory stripped it on assembly or the repair shop which needed to work on warranty issues 4 different times stripped it. But I still decided to take out the four bolts holding the panel with the switches to see what could be found. Three bolts came out easily but you could tell the 4th was under some tension when it came out.



I found that without the exhaust cover removed, I couldn't see anything and decided to put it back together and call a shop that could get out the stripped bolt. Three of the bolts went in fine. The fourth, the one that came out strangely, could not be put back in. The sheet metal between the sections simply could not be aligned to get the bolt in. Trying variants of what order to reinstall the bolts had no effect. The best alignment came with the three other bolts in reasonably tight. This once again made me wonder about Ariens quality because I can't see how the repair shop could have messed this up.



Bottom line is that I'm handing it over to a repair shop. The other bottom line is that my opinion of Ariens has dropped considerably. I was in a hardware store that sells Husqvarnas. I noticed that the engine and engine controls were pretty much like my Ariens so I looked under to check how the Husqvarna wired the key switch. To my dismay, this supposedly lower quality manufacturer had done it as it should be done. Wire nuts and pig tails were in place and correct lengths of wire had been used. They actually had made a connection with a wire slightly longer than needed to make a wire nut installation easier. Pretty annoying that a cheaper brand would do what higher priced brand wouldn't.

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