Friction wheel stuck and won’t shift - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
 
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post #1 of 9 Old 12-19-2018, 02:58 PM Thread Starter
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Friction wheel stuck and won’t shift

Beginner here, I’m not exactly handy but have been able to keep my old JD TRS27 going. One issue it has is it won’t shift. I take off the bottom panel and the friction wheel is to the far right of the drive disk and I cannot get it to move on the shaft at all. I assume this should slide freely as I shift. Ideas on how to free this so I can clean and lube the shaft. Thanks
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post #2 of 9 Old 12-19-2018, 03:07 PM
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post #3 of 9 Old 12-19-2018, 03:16 PM
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Something is bent or binding, mostly the latter. Clean the shaft with a solvent, spray a solvent under the friction disk, disconnect the shift linkage at the outside rear bottom, I believe it's a cable, try to move the friction disk. Make sure there is a space between the friction disk and the friction plate. The fiction disk moves sideways, the friction plate moves up and down. Up to meet the friction disk, down to disconnect creating a space thus the snowblower is not going to move. There has to be a space there. There are other reasons, check those first then repost.

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post #4 of 9 Old 12-19-2018, 04:24 PM Thread Starter
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Iíve sprayed and cleaned the shaft and it wonít slide at all. I do have space between the friction and drive discs. Here is a picture of how it sits.
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Last edited by Kiss4aFrog; 12-19-2018 at 04:32 PM.
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post #5 of 9 Old 12-19-2018, 04:35 PM
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What JLawrence suggested. Either the linkage is binding and that's really rare or it's the shaft the disc shifts back and forth on. Did you clean and lube the shaft in the back of the friction wheel or the one in the front of the picture ??


Sorry for messing with your post but I rotated the photo so it's right side up. I think it's easier to understand when it's orientated this way

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post #6 of 9 Old 12-19-2018, 04:47 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks. Yes, the shaft in the back. The whole assembly from the friction wheel to the chain should slide on the shaft, correct?
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post #7 of 9 Old 12-19-2018, 05:28 PM
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Yes, it should all slide back and forth. Clean the hex shaft at the top and also the smooth round one on the bottom, use some brake cleaner or better still carb cleaner. Drain the gas and lay the blower on its side (look for where the engine pcv system is and have that at the top otherwise you'll get oil coming out) and spray whichever end is up and let it sit for a bit then tap on something sturdy with a rubber mallet to get it all moving, possibly tap a little one way and clean any schmutz off the shafts then tap the other way and clean the shafts again and repeat until it moves freely.

CRC Freeze off works pretty darn well and it smells better than PB Blaster so use that and spray all the shift linkages to make sure they all move freely.

Gear oil, aka 80w90 works good for chain lube so lube those up while you have it opened up.
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post #8 of 9 Old 12-19-2018, 06:29 PM
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Need to use a Hammer. I position a Ball Joint Fork resting on the Friction wheel near the shaft, and Give it a Good Wack or 2. Once it Breaks Loose, You'll be fine.
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post #9 of 9 Old 12-19-2018, 06:33 PM
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After disconnecting the linkage, you may have to bang on it using a heavy hammer/hand "sledge" to get it to move sideways. Use something with a large surface area to spread out the force.

1986 Ariens ST522, 5hp, 22"
1995 Murray Craftsman 10hp, 29" w. 12" impeller
A 1983 Real John Deere 10hp, 32" w. 12" impeller, 16" auger, 20" high front, cast iron gear box, chains
Noma 9hp, 27" w. 12" impeller
Noma 5hp, 24" w. 12" impeller, 20" high front
Gravely Convertible, 12hp Kohler cast iron, 26" width, 600 lbs of cast iron & steel, 2 speed impeller, 4 ground speeds
Dynamark 8hp, 26", 12" impeller, for sale
Several other 5hp, 8hp, several 2 cycle, all for sale
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