Hello:
Take a vise grip and firmly attach to the pipe extension (don't go ape on it and crush the pipe, just tight enough to hold it while you turn the end cap off). When you put the cap back on, just snug it up firmly...shouldn't need to use the vise grip again.
Robert
On my units I have removed the OEM pipe and installed one with wrench notches. I tilt the machine, remove the wheel and use a long thin funnel. Takes a little longer, and sometimes still makes a mess. I have only found a few notched pipes on EBay. I'm always looking for more on other OPE to salvage.
Does anybody know what the thread size I would need for the end of the drain extension tube ? I would like to get one of either the DranZit hose or the EZ Oil Drain Valve for my new Toro Powermax 824 OE.
It has the 252cc motor.
Thanks in advance for any help !
Drainz it or similar good approach. For future use..... Could you put a street coupling or street elbow on it and that will give you something to hold with flats while you take the cap off?
Vise-grip and then when you get a chance and you've drained the oil. Pull the tube, clean the threads and hole well and use some thread locker on them but not on the end cap.
Vise-grip and then when you get a chance and you've drained the oil. Pull the tube, clean the threads and hole well and use some thread locker on them but not on the end cap.
Here's what I did, everything from Home Depot, about $15. The reason for the 90* elbow at the end, is so it can be loosened without unscrewing the pipe out of the engine.
Thanks, but use the method given to verify before ordering! It appears that the older Tecumseh drains were 1/4-18 thread, but the newer ones are likely M10?
looks like another one poster ,ask a ? and gone,
never told us what year machine or motor, made one post with no returns since asking
if a old tech it's a 1/4 npt, 2 small pipe wrenches ,1 to hold the xtension , 1 for the cap. if it's a newer with a loncin they have a flat, 13mm open end on the extension with a 10mm headed internal drain plug .
...or look into getting a vacuum oil extractor. Insert the tube into the filler port, a few pumps later and Bob's your uncle!
shops lifesaver, and cleanest oil change on anything, we have 3 one can also refill like needed for the newer automotive auto trannies
Toro makes great equipment, but how in the world did this even pass the design stage? Why should anyone be expected to drain their oil out the side like this? Do you remove the tire each time? If so you'd have to prop up the machine. Then what about tilting to make sure you get out as much oil as possible? I would think you'd have to be fight against the auger housing.
Toro makes great equipment, but how in the world did this even pass the design stage? Why should anyone be expected to drain their oil out the side like this?
Yes. What you are missing is that the people who design and manufacture the engine are not the same people who design and manufacture the snowblower (or whatever other equipment the engine is mounted on). They probably don't even talk to each other.
So Toro goes looking for an engine that will meet certain specifications. They find one, at a reasonable price purchased in quantity, but the oil drain is in an awkward position that makes oil changes messy. They can either come up with their own solution (the extension tube) for say 50¢ or they can have an engine custom built with the oil drain in a more convenient spot for a LOT more money, and raise the price of the product by that amount.
If you were Toro, which would you do? From the customer's perspective, what is that custom oil drain location worth to you?
Not unusual, this is where you get inventive, a hole in a 1 liter soda bottle, funnel, 2 funnels, combination, a rolled up piece of plastic seamed with rivets, paper clips, clips.
Or block up the machine using whatever you have, and remove the wheel. Simple and you can clean/grease the shaft at the same time! Block up the other side a bit so that the oil flows downhill, problem solved.
If I was Toro I won't do either. If I was Toro I'd say "listen Loncin (whom they use almost exclusively) this year we're looking to buy 10,000 unit from you, but to seal the deal we need the drain located in the rear of the engine".
that will never happen since a major majority of OPE owners leave the servicing up to the dealer/repair shop.
what do we do when one of the other techs is using the suction tools? we have many bent steel channels that fit under the tube,route it over the tire and into a drain pan, but we are a shop and have to adhere to EPA rules of containment and disposal.
as to the engines drains, engines are universal designs. some don't even have a drain plug, you have to tip the machine over to drain or use suction tools .
What about going to the hardware store and buying a large diameter clear hose, putting it over the end of the pipe and running it in to your waste oil container. Or you can do the same putting a small household funnel on the end of the hose to direct the waste oil in to the hose. This idea alone may be worth me trying it! Wish I thought of it sooner. I'm back! I still got it! (For those who know what I'm talking about)
People on here have assembled their own Drainz-it as shown above in earlier posts.
You can modify your set up with an elbow and a permanently attached rubber hose with a barb and hose clamp. This eliminates having to remove the wheel and potential messes. You just need to know the thread size on the side of the engine.
easier said than done on new with a loncin, our old loved techs used a 1/4 inch NPT plug so we could walk into a hardware store
and make up a drain with ease, not so with the full metric loncin,
personally i have never taken the time to thread gauge the toro factory drain yet , really should but think it may be a 12 mm straight thread as it uses a soft compression seal under both the tube and drain plug .the part number is
121-0341 for the whole kit sells for $10.24 includes the tube,2 drain seals and the drain plug
I drill out the middle of the Honda or Predators drain plug and weld it to some 1/8 pipe and cap and plug to extend the drain. Just got to remember to run the engine to heat the oil up before changing
What I want to know is who is the genius at HONDA that thought requiring you to turn the machines upside down (exaggeration) to drain the oil out of the fill hole was a good idea.
of all the stupid things I've seen, I think this is the stupidest.
What I want to know is who is the genius at HONDA that thought requiring you to turn the machines upside down (exaggeration) to drain the oil out of the fill hole was a good idea.
of all the stupid things I've seen, I think this is the stupidest.
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