Which one of you posted you cut slots in the impeller rubber to help the fit by being able to slide the rubber against the impeller housing?

I tried a Search for past 6 months using the word "slotted" or "slot" or "slit", all separate searches and came up with nothing and I'm sure it's on here.

I just installed my first impeller kit on a John Deere 1032 and though I used a paper as a model to outline the shape, size, and holes, I can easily see the advantage of cutting slots in the rubber as one did not work out well and I will need to cut a slot in that one.

I wanted to thank that person for a great suggestion.

The search feature on this site needs an overhaul. If you are lucky, it may show a few results going back a short time. It needs to be improved and quick.

https://www.snowblowerforum.com/foru...-rubber-2.html

Thanks.

I used 2 names in the Search, Shaw351 and RedOctobyr, using the term "slot" and "slotted". Results were zero though I was looking at the post with those names and poster's names.

JL'


I'm planning to do this myself, with the impeller removed, since I believe in the long run I'll get a better fit. Also a heck of a good time to consider throwing in a new impeller bearing......


You may find this post by "Vermont007" helpful.
https://www.snowblowerforum.com/forum/900193-post.html


Good luck with yours!


P.S. - Any ideas on the best way to cut some nice "clean" slots in the material would be most appreciated. Drill press?? Dremel ??



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dremel works wonders easy to handle

I'm thinking I'd drill the ends of the slots, and use a razor blade to connect them....

You maybe able to use a roto zip for drywall. I have also used my old craftsman router for a lot of light weight milling, the last was slots in Hyfax and UHMW for skid shoes for a single stage blower. If you try an old router drill end hole first. I did use it on 5/16 industrial belting a few years ago, just go slow.

Well I am not a Pro at this impeller kit business but will be an experienced amateur as I've already did one, and have 3 more to do, may be more after.

You can't cut this stuff with a utility knife, to difficult and not a straight cut. You need a small saw with fine teeth. A hacksaw blade in a hacksaw holder would work, not in a hacksaw frame.

You could drill 2 holes and use a jig saw to cut the slot or drill 1 hole and use a jig saw. I will be trying both however I will first do a paper mock up and use that as a model and guide. I'd like all the holes in the impeller blade to be in the same location.

I used Truss Head Phillips screws (large head, eliminates washers) and 2 way reversible lock nuts (same but as shear pins use), you can also use Prevailing Torque Lock Nuts, you don't need lock washers.

On two of my snowblowers I'm going to put an aluminum strip with the bolt holes in it across the top as a "clamp" to hold the rubber down. I figure there's less chance of the rubber tearing.

I've mentioned slotting the rubber, when I did my impeller kit.

I used a punch to slot the holes. I have one of these Harbor Freight $7 leather punches:
https://www.harborfreight.com/leathe...ool-97715.html

I figured out where I figured I'd want the bolt. You can hold the rubber against the impeller and make a mark on it through the impeller's drilled bolt hole. Then I made multiple connected punches in each direction, to slot the rubber, to give me adjustability. I used baler belt, it's cotton-reinforced rubber. I think drilling it might have been kinda messy (might not make a clean hole, etc).

I drilled through a recess in my impeller, so I filled that recess "smooth" by grinding the sides off some washers and dropping them into the groove. Then I bolted through, with a fender washer under the bolt head, to help reduce the risk of the bolt heads pulling through the rubber. I used stainless 1/4" hardware, with nylock nuts.

I also made a little jig for drilling the holes. I used a chunk of plastic, drilled properly-spaced holes, then clamped it to each blade, and drilled the holes. It helped keep the proper hole locations while drilling.

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