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Augers jammed now engine won't start

13K views 45 replies 13 participants last post by  .je 
#1 ·
Ive got a Poulan Pro 270 self propelled & electric start. I didn't check my impeller for ice, so when I put the blower in drive the engine quit. Ice is completely cleared but now engine won't start. Can't smell gas from the exhaust... no idea what might have happened. Hope you could help! TIA
 
#3 ·
That was my first thought too. But shearing the flywheel key from just engaging the augers when they're stuck? The belt would have engaged over a (very) short span of time, giving it a chance to slow down the engine slightly gradually. It should be less violent than hitting something with the augers already running, at least. Seems odd to me that it would shear the key, but it's certainly possible. Especially if the flywheel nut was maybe a little under-torqued.

Will it do anything if you spray a little gas or starting fluid into the carburetor's intake? Are you getting spark?

Checking the flywheel key can be a bit tricky. At a minimum, you need to remove the shroud that covers the flywheel (it's probably also the pull-start housing). You might be able to look down the crankshaft and compare the slot in the crankshaft, with the slot in the flywheel. If they're perfectly lined up, the flywheel key should be OK. If you can't check it that way, then you'd have to remove the flywheel nut and the flywheel, which is bit of a process, and must be done carefully to avoid engine damage.
 
#4 ·
:welcome: to SBF .je

If it's turning over but just not firing/starting it might have flooded. I'd pull the plug and let it turn over for a few seconds (10-15?) with the choke off and throttle full a few times letting it rest a bit between turns. Don't want to overheat the starter.

Reinstall the plug and try starting with just the throttle full an no choke, no prime. If no joy, add choke and try again. If it still doesn't start then prime like you normally would with choke and give it a try.
If it's still not starting then were getting into the likelihood you may have sheared a key.
I'd lean more that it's flooded at this point.

.
 
#7 · (Edited)
For a heads up,the OP's machine a Poulan Pro 270 which uses a 254 cc gen 2 LCT engine, it FAILS to have a shear type flywheel key.it has a solid metal woodruff key, part number 585 29 72-01 WOODRUFF FLYWHEEL KEY sold in packs of 5 to the dealers Owner's Manuals | Poulan Pro listed under spare parts one can download the OM and parts lists if wanted the key is shown as number 81

OP make sure your throttle is fully open, the stop key is fully in, check for spark and gas,
 
#11 ·
good point on checking that fuel spark plug
that motor has 2 safeties a push in key and a on/off switch plus a fuel shutoff valve,

right from the owner's manual page 19

PROBLEM CAUSE CORRECTION
Does not start 1. Fuel shut-off valve (if so equipped)
in OFF position.
1. Turn fuel shut-off valve to OPEN position.
2. Safety ignition key is not inserted. 2. Insert safety ignition key.
3. Out of fuel. 3. Fill fuel tank with fresh, clean gasoline.
4. Throttle in STOP position (or ON/
OFF switch is OFF).
4. Move throttle to FAST position (or ON/OFF switch to ON position).
5. Choke in OFF position. 5. Move to FULL position.
6. Primer not depressed. 6. Prime as instructed in the Operation section of this manual.
7. Engine is flooded. 7. Wait a few minutes before restarting, DO NOT prime.
8. Spark plug wire is disconnected. 8. Connect wire to spark plug.
9. Bad spark plug. 9. Replace spark plug.
10. Stale fuel. 10. Empty fuel tank & carburetor, refill with fresh, clean gasoline.
11. Water in fuel. 11. Empty fuel tank & carburetor, refill with fresh, clean gasoline.
 
#12 ·
Had the plug out for a day and even put a tap of motor oil in the cylinder to help compression but it is still flooded. No fuel shutoff valve unfortunately. The gas is pretty new I wonder if there's water in it from storage.

Unfortunately too heavy snow has just started so I won't be going to a store for a while ironically.
 
#16 ·
Then, with no spark, it sounds like you're closer to figuring out what's really making it not run.

Is anything messed up with the ignition-kill wire? Is it worn through and grounding out on something?

You could disconnect it, as a test. If you can disconnect it from the coil, then at least you'd know it was disconnected "where it counts".
 
#18 ·
You say it’s still flooded after 2 days and no fuel shutoff.

Crimp the gas line with a pair of vise grips as a temporary fuel shut off. Use a shop towel around the line to prevent the vise grips from marring and don’t over tighten the grips. Just enough to compress the line fully.

Remove the spark plug and turn the engine over several times to clear 100% of the flooding.

Good luck.
 
#19 ·
make sure you got the plug grounded to the body when checking for spark. i would just make sure that you got spark first before tearing apart an engine. if you don't have spark i would use a screw driver and hold it near ground while cranking so can see the spark jump the gap. there is a chance that the plug might be bad. i have seen some plugs where you can see the spark but still needed to be replaced to get the engine to fire.
 
#21 ·
You mentioned that augers turned when you ran the starter. If you were not engaging them while running your starter , Then I would pull a belt cover and make absolutely sure you did not throw a belt that is binding and letting the auger system try to turn as you try to start it.

It will not be good if the belt is in a wrong position and the engine actually starts.
 
#22 ·
if it is almost firing up but not quite i would try priming it a couple extra times and then try starting it. sometimes that works and worst case scenario is that you flood it and got to pull the plug and cycle the engine a couple times to clear it out.
 
#24 · (Edited)
OK rather than take up more of your time I'll summarize:

The snowblower was purchased secondhand and by the 'story' and appearance has been used maybe half a dozen times in 2 years. It has a B&S 1150 series engine (it says it right on it!) w/o a fuel shutoff (there's a blank there). The drive stopped working for the PO, but I fixed that.

The engine was working, rough, then I tried to engage the auger (which was iced up, because all this is new to me) and the engine quit, and did not restart.

All the ice was cleared and the auger (and the drive) work if they are engaged by the handles.
There's spark, and it looks good. The plug looks very new, but maybe it needs replacing. It sure is wet with gas.

Starting it up after turning it over without the plug gets it almost going, but has to be repeated.
Now just a week or so before this, I got a can of gas but the little vent cap was off for that time. I wouldn't think it would let a lot of moisture in to foul the gas, but you might know better than I.

I think the next steps would be to change the gas, and maybe the plug. If there is anything else I'd love to hear it, but will have to try these things before asking more questions.

I must say that I am very impressed with the speed and thoroughness of the answers that you folks have provided. Well done, I hope to be able to help anyone with the wisdom you've already provided in a short time. I'll let you know if it's working ASAP.
 
#25 ·
Good background info, thanks. I personally wouldn't expect trouble with the vent open for a week, especially in the winter (dryer air). But that's just me.

If you have a compression tester, doing a compression test could be worthwhile.

A new plug is cheap to try, at least. Spraying a bit of starting fluid, carb cleaner, etc, into the carb's intake could help you see if it would run from another fuel source.
 
#26 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by .je View Post
That was my first thought too. Tried after an hour but didnt start. The starter moves the augers and drive tw.
Thanks for these suggestions I'll try and let you know what happens.

The auger and drive should not try to move when starting the engine. Make sure they are not engaged. I don't believe that engine will start with a load on it. Ill say it for a second time.
 
#28 ·
Engines all need air, gasoline and spark all combined with the proper amount and.at.the proper time, to start and run. I would still check that key, even replace it just to take that possibility out of the equation.
Something else... That starter motor isn't going to tolerate much of that.
 
#29 ·
After rereading your post I believe that you are chasing a carb issue.You got the machine 2nd hand , not been run hardly in a couple years and you did not mention removing old gas from the tank or say anything about cleaning the carb of old gas or gunk from old gas.if the carb plugged after you got it running (roughly) and engaged the augers then stopped , you may need to do a good cleaning. there are a number of different ways for raw fuel to get to the cylinder to cause a fouled plug, but it is not atomized w/air as needed so it just floods the engine.

As well check your oil to make sure that you dont have a overfilled condition from gas( possibly leaking past needle and seat) as part of the carb not cleaned scenario.
 
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