Ariens 1032 repower - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
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post #1 of 24 Old 02-09-2019, 09:51 PM Thread Starter
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Ariens 1032 repower

Looking but not finding quite what I'm looking for.

Picked up a 1032 from the transfer station, free, but not running. I couldn't get running; I had checked the points (fine) and finally got spark working, but wasn't running right. Put on a carb from Amazon but still not running right: been a few months since I messed with it but I think I had to choke it to run at full throttle and no choke to idle.. or opposite... and it wasn't responding well to adjustments. Maybe prior owner got rid of it for a reason?

Anyhow I'm tempted to get a Harbor Freight 6.5 HP motor to put on it. Reason being, it'll run and I can use the machine. And the 13hp version isn't a direct swap, but the 6.5hp is -- I checked the hole mounting locations, and the PTO height, and the 6.5hp matches the 10HP Tec.

But will 6 hp be enough? My Toro 521 rarely felt underpowered (didn't throw far but the engine was always fine), the MTD something or another that I just got of similar size seems the same. And I've been impressed with how OHV sips gas compared to my sidevalve engines (both the 521 and the various lawnmowers I've had over the years).

I'm not that mechanically inclined so I really don't want to mess with drilling new holes and figuring out longer belts at this time.
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post #2 of 24 Old 02-10-2019, 08:29 AM
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that 6hp will be ok on small snow amounts but i suspect will be lacking greatly with that 32" bucket unless you go very very slowly in anything more than 5 inches or so.

the new machine is 50% wider than your old toro
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post #3 of 24 Old 02-10-2019, 08:49 AM
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Garage
On the internet there is a video of someone running a 32" with a 212 Predator but IMO it's way too big. Wet snow, forget it! 27" would be the max and best 26" or less.

If you are not willing to drill holes, find the right size belt, deal with engine bolt holes, and if your engine has 2 crankshafts then forget about it, it needs to have only 1 crankshaft, post it on here for free.

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post #4 of 24 Old 02-10-2019, 08:54 AM
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Have you pulled the head and checked the valve clearances? You might be throwing $$ / parts at a compression issue.


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post #5 of 24 Old 02-10-2019, 09:21 AM
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I would also check the valve clearances, as well as the flywheel key way, before I toss the old engine.
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post #6 of 24 Old 02-10-2019, 09:46 AM
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Ariens 1032 repower-57098963512-4e574be7-7e0e-4548-a9a1-59c9b469dc6e.jpeg32" with 212 predator engine.
Works just fine for me

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post #7 of 24 Old 02-10-2019, 10:59 AM Thread Starter
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Alright, pulled the cover on the springs, intake is about 0.010 or 0.011 (0.012 won't fit), exhaust is less than 0.002 (my smallest feeler gauge). I found a manual that covers HM100 and it says I should have 0.008 to 0.012 clearance for valves. So clearly the exhaust valve is off. I noticed that it does have a compression bump so I made sure to not measure while on that.

I don't see any way to adjust it, so I pull the head.

Cross hatch looks good but all the carbon makes me think the rings are shot. Intake valve has very little play in the guide, but the exhaust has more wiggle. I'm thinking the exhaust valve has to come out and get ground down to open up the clearance. Yes/no? And rings?
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post #8 of 24 Old 02-10-2019, 11:39 AM
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That much carbon buildup lends itself to oil burning. It’s clearly tired. But might be worth resurecting.

Since the head is off, I’d lap the valves, file the stems into adjustment, clean the carbon buildup and see how it goes.

Is it a single or dual shaft engine? And what’s the crankshaft diameter? If it’s a single shaft and 1” diameter a pred 420 is a no brainer.

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post #9 of 24 Old 02-10-2019, 11:39 AM
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Originally Posted by supton View Post
Alright, pulled the cover on the springs, intake is about 0.010 or 0.011 (0.012 won't fit), exhaust is less than 0.002 (my smallest feeler gauge). I found a manual that covers HM100 and it says I should have 0.008 to 0.012 clearance for valves. So clearly the exhaust valve is off. I noticed that it does have a compression bump so I made sure to not measure while on that.

I don't see any way to adjust it, so I pull the head.

Cross hatch looks good but all the carbon makes me think the rings are shot. Intake valve has very little play in the guide, but the exhaust has more wiggle. I'm thinking the exhaust valve has to come out and get ground down to open up the clearance. Yes/no? And rings?
0.002" cold would do it!

on a new-to-me "bad" engine, I like to target the higher end of the range when I'm opening the gap (I use emery paper...takes awhile but I never overshoot). I then lap the valves and the clearance will close-up a little.

Coke build-up on these engines is normal (maybe excessive due to poor compression). There are 2 ways to test the rings... Leakdown test or disassemble the entire engine and check the bore & ring-end-gap. Lets assume the rings are g2g for now, clean-off the coke and see if the the exhaust valve clearance is the only gremlin.


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post #10 of 24 Old 02-10-2019, 07:18 PM Thread Starter
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1" output shaft, single crankshaft.

The Predator 6.5 hp won't work, turns out while it is identical in all other dimensions, output shaft is 0.75" not 1". Rules that out. Just as well, I was pretty sure 8hp was more of what was needed. Sounds like I need to measure the belts and order 2" longer ones (crank is a good inch higher according to the drawings).

Managed to sneak the exhaust valve out of the Tec, despite not having a spring compressor. Cleaned off the valve, stuck back in, wiggled it, measure 0.022" of play. That seems like a lot, might explain why the valve was tight? Rocking around causing seat erosion?
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