Fix old blower or buy new? - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
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post #1 of 53 Old 02-12-2019, 03:39 PM Thread Starter
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Fix old blower or buy new?

Hi there. Blower is from 1981, Canadian tire ďbrandĒ with a tecumseh HM80 155734n, maybe 7n.

Ran great until a few years ago when I left fuel over the winter, no stabilizer. Paid for a carb rebuild and it ran great until last year.
Last year would not start. Ended up being a cracked primer line. Replaced line and all was good until now.

Since themrebuild Iíve always **** off fuel line after use, and completely run dry/empty fuel tank for the summer. Sea foam in every gas can fill up. Fuel is kept up to 6 months.

This year would not start. Took off carb bowl. Full of crap. Cleaned out/sprayed everything with carb clean. Started up but quotes after a few minutes. Today again took off carb bowl. Little particles. Emptied tank, cleaned bowl, etc and put 4ozs sea foam, and 8oz fuel into tank, and primed carb. Letting it sit over night.

If it still wonít run........ do,I try fixing (replace carb and fuel lines?) not sure where the crud is coming from.

Or do I buy new? Iím thinking an Ariens Platinum efi.

Iíve had this blower since 1981 so it literally owes me nothing. Not one dime.

The efi arians seems nice. No more carb issues (I,thought Iíve done everything,right) not sure what else I can do?

And Iíd have a more powerful blower.

Thoughts?
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post #2 of 53 Old 02-12-2019, 03:58 PM
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I'd replace lines and carb...buy the new Ariens and keep this one for a spare.....
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post #3 of 53 Old 02-12-2019, 03:58 PM
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I myself think if your Canadian lasted this long time to treat yourself to a new blower. I had my old Craftsman for 19 years and upgraded. In my pea brain one does not marry a blower so 28 years you were a great couple.

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post #4 of 53 Old 02-12-2019, 04:04 PM
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I would start at the tank clean it and flush it. replace fuel lines including primer lines and bulb as they can be deteriorating on the inside and if possible install an inline filter. Order a new carb for $20.00 and install everything all at the same time.

Now this is something to think about, you can replace the entire fuel delivery set up on this engine for under $30.00.
You mentioned a EFI unit and no more carb problems, you may want to look up part prices for EFIs before you jump that fence to greener pastures.
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post #5 of 53 Old 02-12-2019, 04:10 PM
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Fuel storage to me is where to start diagnosing. You seem to be keep getting bad/dirty fuel to the carb. I worked my way back from the carb to resolve my gas issues.

To me...fuel line may be eroding from inside - that'd be my first hunch. However, "little particles"...to me, the source is 3 things.

Storage tank for gas - dust/dirt (or rust), insects making more insects in the neck, etc
Gas tank on blower - it receives it's gas from one source, but can also be the source itself
Fuel line - they do go bad

1981 blower - ever changed the fuel line? Is the tank steel? Are you storing the gas in a plastic container or steel and is the container capped (nothing from outside can get in)?

To me...solving particles in a carb is a LOT cheaper than a new blower. I speak from experience. Both my "inherited machines" from my father/brother...they were using a 50+ year old steel 5 gallon gas tank that my brother was filling full. The gas would not get used up for years...wasn't ever treated etc. Go figure...all their lawn mowers and snowblowers always had fuel issues. The last time they got the carb rebuilt, the repairman wrote on the invoice "rust particles in gas tank".

I inherited the blowers (one has a darn near 50 year old steel tank that I still use today). I again had to rebuild both carbs but I also changed out both fuel lines (they both were the original 40+ year old lines) and used clean gas to clean out anything in them (then recycled that gas) and then after they dried I sprayed compressed air in them to blow anything remaining in them. I also use plastic 1 gallon containers that have caps on them to keep out spiders/bugs, dust and dirt.

Never had a gas issue since with both blowers.

A new fuel line is $5. A new plastic gas tank is $30 (if you have a steel tank) - or if plastic, simply remove the tank emptying the gas out of it completely and clean the inside thoroughly. If you're using an older steel storage container, plastic fuel containers are ridiculously cheap.

Whereas a complete new snowblower no matter what will probably be at the very absolute least 10x what you might spend resolving the current issue(s).

I've gotten very anal about my gas "process" this past year. I've overhauled my entire "supply chain" because I discovered that old gas is not better than new no matter how well any treatment is. I also discovered even a simple plastic gas container...you'd be amazed at how much dust and dirt and bugs can get in those things if they are not capped.

Heck, I even zip tie a coffee filter on it's spout and make sure my funnel is completely clean before I fill my blowers/mowers now. And I always buy my pump gas via a debit carb (for the receipt) and pin the receipt up on my shed wall so I know when I bought that gas in the container.

I'm tired of taking carbs apart. I have noticed once I began being anal about it, the issues with fuel have disappeared.

1974 Ariens 922008/922003 "Frankenstein", my dad's 1st new snowblower
1971 Ariens 922002/922003 "The Badger", recent addition, ready for snow
1971 Ariens 922002/922003 "Juneau", finally ready for snow
1971 Ariens 910962/910995 "Bill", SOLD 3/7/2019
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post #6 of 53 Old 02-12-2019, 04:10 PM
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If you want to fix it, you probably can for cheap. A new carburetor from Amazon for around $15, and new fuel lines, will probably make a big difference.

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post #7 of 53 Old 02-12-2019, 04:26 PM
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It's worth fixing. An hour or two of repairs is easier than running around shopping for a new machine and you might bring the old girl back to life. No better feeling than that. But if you're fed up and really want something new and shiny - by all means go on out and get that new machine. You deserve it after all these years of work to keep that Canadian Tire blower going.
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post #8 of 53 Old 02-12-2019, 04:34 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the replies so far!

To answer a few questions......

Fuel tank is plastic , and other than a carb ďkitĒ rebuild everything is factory 1981 original.

I understand the fuel thing. Up until 2013 I used untreated fuel and just used the fuel shutoff after use, and drained tank for summer.

Since the carb rebuild I e used treat fuel (seafoam) and shutoff valve after use, and drain for summer.

My process hasnít changed so Iím wondering if itís more than carb related, or is fuel just getting worse? The fuel was in the blower for about 3 months but itís always been that way.

My jerry can is the spill proof one,from fleet farm. Itís got a green button on it. Easy pour or something. Itís got a cap on the spout.

I will replace,carb, and fuel lines.

How would i go about cleaning fuel tank?
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post #9 of 53 Old 02-12-2019, 05:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nan_wpg View Post
I will replace,carb, and fuel lines.

How would i go about cleaning fuel tank?
When you have the fuel line and air shroud off unbolt the tank to clean it with gas or something and drain it out and let dry well. You should be able to check it pretty good with a flashlight. The cheap carbs for <$15 really work well, so find the right one and get that. You might need to swap out the choke and/or throttle lever from your original carb but that is fairly easy to do. I recently put a $12 carb on a 50 yr old Ariens and it sprang to life & ran perfect.
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post #10 of 53 Old 02-12-2019, 05:15 PM
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Lots of opinions on this front, but IMO, Seafoam is a product that tries to do it all, but isn't a specialist in anything. I use something that's just a stabilizer (StaBil Marine, in my case).

Your fuel practices seem pretty reasonable to me. I would switch to an "official" stabilizer, if it were me. Maybe your fuel lines are degrading, given their age. Though that wouldn't explain finding gunk in the carb, only black bits of rubber.

Even if you chose to replace the machine, a $20 carb & fuel lines replacement would probably help the current machine's resale value significantly, if you got it running normally again.

For cleaning the tank, you could remove the tank, slosh clean gas (or maybe rubbing alcohol, etc) around in it, and dump it. Or, without removing the tank, maybe disconnect the line from the carb, aim it into a bucket, and flush the tank with some clean gas.

If you don't already have one, I'd definitely install an appropriate fuel filter between the tank and carb. Just make sure to use a filter for gravity-fed machines (not engines with fuel pumps). The gravity systems use a filter with a looser mesh, to reduce the restriction to fuel flow. Like this, 150 micron (smaller microns mean tighter filtering, but not enough fuel flow without a fuel pump):



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