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post #1 of 12 Old 02-14-2019, 12:39 PM Thread Starter
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Ariens Deluxe 24

Hi all, long time lurker here and decided to finally make an account due to some issues I can't solve and it's driving me crazy. My ariens deluxe 24 is a year old and will start fine and run no problem. 10-15 minutes into blowing snow it will stall and will not restart no matter what I do. It'll backfire and pop when trying to restart it but that's the most I can get out of it. If I let it sit over night it'll start up no problem. I've tried loosening the gas cap so that it's barely on and running it thinking it could be a vacuum related issue in the gas tank but that failed to be the culprit as the same thing happened. Any ideas? I greatly appreciate it.
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post #2 of 12 Old 02-14-2019, 12:43 PM
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bad coil maybe
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post #3 of 12 Old 02-14-2019, 12:44 PM
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Welcome to the forum!

Basic questions for this kind of issue:
- do you still have spark after it stalls?
- if you spray some gas/starting fluid/etc into the carb's throat, will it re-start briefly?

Understanding whether it's a fuel problem, or ignition, will help figure out a resolution.

Have you checked your valve clearances? If you have a compression tester, you could check compression when cold, and after it stalls. If a valve's clearance is too small, and is being held-open after the engine gets hot, that could cause trouble.

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post #4 of 12 Old 02-14-2019, 12:49 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedOctobyr View Post
Welcome to the forum!

Basic questions for this kind of issue:
- do you still have spark after it stalls?
- if you spray some gas/starting fluid/etc into the carb's throat, will it re-start briefly?

Understanding whether it's a fuel problem, or ignition, will help figure out a resolution.

Have you checked your valve clearances? If you have a compression tester, you could check compression when cold, and after it stalls. If a valve's clearance is too small, and is being held-open after the engine gets hot, that could cause trouble.
First off, thank you!

It does still have spark after it stalls, I've pulled the spark plug and bumped the electric start to confirm that. It will not restart with starting fluid or gas sprayed into the carb either. The most I can get out of it in terms of restarting is a constant backfire (popping). I haven't checked the valve clearances, I have an ariens service center in town that I could bring it to under warranty if it does end up being the valve clearances.
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post #5 of 12 Old 02-14-2019, 12:51 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cranman View Post
bad coil maybe
That's what I'm thinking as well.
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post #6 of 12 Old 02-14-2019, 12:56 PM
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If you have spark, and it won't start even with starting fluid, plus you're getting backfiring, my guess would be valve clearances.

In a pinch (if a storm was coming, the dealer is busy for weeks, etc), checking and setting OHV valve clearances is usually pretty straightforward, if you have flat feeler gauges. But if you can get it to the dealer easily, then sure, that's what the warranty is for.

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post #7 of 12 Old 02-14-2019, 12:57 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedOctobyr View Post
If you have spark, and it won't start even with starting fluid, plus you're getting backfiring, my guess would be valve clearances.

In a pinch (if a storm was coming, the dealer is busy for weeks, etc), checking and setting OHV valve clearances is usually pretty straightforward, if you have flat feeler gauges. But if you can get it to the dealer easily, then sure, that's what the warranty is for.
I'm just not sure if the spark I'm getting is strong/hot enough. I'll have to look into the OHV clearances as I've never done it before.
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post #8 of 12 Old 02-14-2019, 01:09 PM
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Am inline spark tester, if available, might help show if you're still getting spark under compression. Which is more difficult than getting spark with the plug removed.

One thing I'll do to test for weak spark is to close the plug gap down. Maybe go to half the normal gap, for instance, or smaller. The spark won't be ideal, but a smaller gap is easier to jump.

If it suddenly keeps running, or runs significantly longer, that could be consistent with a spark that's getting weak.

Replacing the plug is also an inexpensive test. At worst, you have a spare plug.

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Last edited by RedOctobyr; 02-14-2019 at 01:15 PM.
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post #9 of 12 Old 02-14-2019, 01:13 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedOctobyr View Post
Am inline spark tester, if available, might help show if you're still getting spark under compression. Which is more difficult than getting spark with the plug removed.

One thing I'll do to treat for weak spark is to close the plug gap down. Maybe go to half the normal gap, for instance. The spark won't be ideal, but a smaller gap is easier to jump.

If it suddenly keeps running, or runs significantly longer, that could be consistent with a spark that's getting weak.

Replacing the plug is also an inexpensive test. At worst, you have a spare plug.
I'll give it a shot and report back. I have replaced the plug (bought a 2 pack, now I have 3 plugs ha) as I thought that may have been the culprit yet that didn't solve it either.
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post #10 of 12 Old 02-14-2019, 03:12 PM
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Check the multiple pin connector wiring under the handle bar dash area. Mine was doing the same thing. The dealer found the issue. He said it was not making a good connection. He used some contact cleaner and dialectic grease on the connection. it solved the problem.....
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