Techumpseh 12.5hp Motor - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
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post #1 of 16 Old 03-08-2019, 11:07 PM Thread Starter
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Techumpseh 12.5hp Motor

Hey All,

I have a Craftsman 33" wide 12.5 HP Tecumpseh snow blower. Model Number 536.881230.



I posted a thread, because i've had some issues keeping auger belts on it, and it even broke the keyway on the pulley. Didn't get any responses.

I've replaced them and got it running again, I think.

The pulley and the V-Belt for the auger do seem to get very hot when in use though. After 10 minutes of snowblowing, the auger pulley is too hot to touch. This isn't normal, right? The pulley on the drive belt doesn't get nearly as hot.


The belt isn't overly tight, it's snug when the handle pulley engages, but the belt pops right off the pulley when it's released. But the head has to be coming from the friction of the V-belt and the 2 pulleys for the auger. IS this normal?

Last edited by SharpAndCunning; 08-26-2019 at 11:58 AM. Reason: added model number of snowblower
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post #2 of 16 Old 03-09-2019, 12:03 AM
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It sounds like your belt is oversized and/or is not being tensioned properly. Posting the Craftsman model number would help us at least tell you what the proper belt size is.
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post #3 of 16 Old 03-09-2019, 09:51 AM
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Garage
Video engaged and disengaged to show the looseness is best. What's snug to one person may not be the correct tightness. When engaged you do not want flapping, when disengaged you do not want slapping.

Find the correct length belt then measure your belt. You may have to drop down 1/4" or 1/2". The manual's correct size belt is not necessarily the size you will use, it's usually but not always.

Measure your belt using a flexible tape and binder clips to secure the tape measuring around the outside.

Make sure your belt stays are in place and adjusted correctly.

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post #4 of 16 Old 03-09-2019, 10:12 AM
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Belt is probably too loose. What kind of belt did you get? Some belts will stretch under load.
If the keyway broke in the pulley, I think I would start there. Something get caught in the auger or impeller to cause that? Impeller bearing seizing up?

Last edited by strtch5881; 03-09-2019 at 10:20 AM.
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post #5 of 16 Old 03-09-2019, 10:29 AM
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S&C,

Since the belt comes off by itself so easily, try this:

When the machine has cooled off, take the belt off the pulley that is hot, and take it right out of the machine.
Run the machine for 10 minutes.


Is the pulley hot now??.....probably not. If that's the case, at this point, you've proved that the heat is definitely generated by a slipping belt.


Is there any chance someone performed service on this machine and didn't have exactly the right belt, but found one that was "close enough" and slapped it on there?

Remember, getting the right friction between the belt and the pulley is not just a function of length and therefore tightness. It has to be the right shape to mate with the pulley and grip properly, as well as the right width. In other words: The right belt.
BTW: Did you smell the belt burning at all?
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post #6 of 16 Old 03-09-2019, 02:18 PM
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If it sheared the pulley key that tells me the problem is forward of the pulley. Yes with added torque needed to run the augers with a possible bad shaft bearing , or a dry auger gear box (no or low oil) binding impeller ( ice/ debris) will put added stress on the belt trying to turn the pulley and create heat that is normally not there with everything else in good working order.
Definitely thaw the machine out , eliminate ice as a problem , remove the belt and turn the pulley by hand and see how much force it takes to turn the shaft. You should be able to turn it pretty easily.
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post #7 of 16 Old 08-26-2019, 11:57 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tabora View Post
It sounds like your belt is oversized and/or is not being tensioned properly. Posting the Craftsman model number would help us at least tell you what the proper belt size is.

Good Call!



Model Number 536.881230






Quote:
Originally Posted by SayItAintSnow View Post
S&C,

Since the belt comes off by itself so easily, try this:

When the machine has cooled off, take the belt off the pulley that is hot, and take it right out of the machine.
Run the machine for 10 minutes.


Is the pulley hot now??.....probably not. If that's the case, at this point, you've proved that the heat is definitely generated by a slipping belt.


Is there any chance someone performed service on this machine and didn't have exactly the right belt, but found one that was "close enough" and slapped it on there?

Remember, getting the right friction between the belt and the pulley is not just a function of length and therefore tightness. It has to be the right shape to mate with the pulley and grip properly, as well as the right width. In other words: The right belt.
BTW: Did you smell the belt burning at all?
.
.



So I'm getting back to looking at this issue. I did run the machine for 10-12 minutes, without the belt and the pulley was warm(from the engine) but not hot. So yes, I have a slipping belt. I'll come back tonight with the model number of the machine, and the model number of the belt I was using. It's possible, maybe, just maybe I didn't adjust the belt correctly.



I did not smell the belt burning. But the new belt definitely was slipping.










Quote:
Originally Posted by Lottstodo View Post
If it sheared the pulley key that tells me the problem is forward of the pulley. Yes with added torque needed to run the augers with a possible bad shaft bearing , or a dry auger gear box (no or low oil) binding impeller ( ice/ debris) will put added stress on the belt trying to turn the pulley and create heat that is normally not there with everything else in good working order.
Definitely thaw the machine out , eliminate ice as a problem , remove the belt and turn the pulley by hand and see how much force it takes to turn the shaft. You should be able to turn it pretty easily.



I ended up taking the drain bolt out of the auger gear box and it's pretty dry. I'm not sure how much oil is supposed to be in there, but it looked like graphite. It's still warm out, and I've got some time. So I'm going to remove it, try and wash the grud out of it, and refill it with oil. I've got a manual somewhere in the garage, to figure out what kind of oil it needs.

Last edited by SharpAndCunning; 08-26-2019 at 12:00 PM.
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post #8 of 16 Old 08-26-2019, 10:49 PM
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It looks like the correct auger belt is 1/2" wide x 39" long
Part number 761788 or 761788MA

https://www.ebay.com/itm/AUGER-DRIVE...kAAOxyni9S~7jW

Here's the manual: https://www.manualslib.com/download/...536-88123.html

See Page 20 for Auger Belt tensioning. The auger gear box takes Lubriplate 630-AA.

Last edited by tabora; 08-26-2019 at 11:19 PM.
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post #9 of 16 Old 08-27-2019, 01:26 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tabora View Post
It looks like the correct auger belt is 1/2" wide x 39" long
Part number 761788 or 761788MA

https://www.ebay.com/itm/AUGER-DRIVE...kAAOxyni9S~7jW

Here's the manual: https://www.manualslib.com/download/...536-88123.html

See Page 20 for Auger Belt tensioning. The auger gear box takes Lubriplate 630-AA.

I used those numbers to cross reference the belt I have, I'll grab that number and post, I forgot that last night.





This is what the insides of the auger box look like. I'll look for some lubriplate 630-AA.


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post #10 of 16 Old 08-28-2019, 08:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SharpAndCunning View Post
This is what the insides of the auger box look like. I'll look for some lubriplate 630-AA.
Unfortunately your PhotoBucket image is not visible...
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