Tecumseh LH358SA Will not Start- Need Help - Page 2 - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
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post #11 of 38 Old 05-13-2019, 04:38 PM Thread Starter
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If I didnít align the cam and crank shafts correctly (which I donít think I could have messed up)........could this cause the engine to not suck fuel in?
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post #12 of 38 Old 05-15-2019, 07:01 PM
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You didn't mention checking the fuel line for cracks and/or filter for blockage; it sure does sound like a fuel starvation issue. Good luck.

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post #13 of 38 Old 05-28-2019, 07:50 PM Thread Starter
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Should have mentioned I Put a new fuel line on when I had cowling off. I am close to giving up on this engine. Never been more frustrated with a tecumseh. I love these engines but this one has got me stumped. Wish I could measure compression but the compression release doesnít allow for good readings right?
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post #14 of 38 Old 05-28-2019, 07:58 PM
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if it has electric start, that will give you a good compression test, But the pull string is impossible to get a good reading as your stating.

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post #15 of 38 Old 05-29-2019, 02:02 AM
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You could have a leaking valve causing loss of compression.
A valve could be sticking in its guide, a bad valve face or seat. Pitting or cracks, or just worn.
You could dress up the seat and faces by using some lapping compound, or if you have a valve seat cutter and a valve grinding tool. Most of the time if it is a bad valve, you usually just replace the valve unless it isn't too bad and you have the skill and tools to do a valve job like that.
I would give it a "leak down" test first, to determine if it is a leaking valve or something else, like a head gasket or rings, cylinder leakage before you remove the cylinder head.
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post #16 of 38 Old 06-13-2019, 12:12 PM
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Having the same issue

Bobami;

This is exactly the issue I'm having with a Tecumseh LH318SA engine now, that is mounted on an Ariens 932105 blower. When I got it, I had spark, yet could not get it to fire or sputter at all. Took off the carb, and discovered that there was no throttle plate in the carb! Made me wonder where it went.....Put on a new carb.

Took off the head, and found the throttle plate screw embedded in the head. Did not find the throttle plate. Adjusted the valves and put it back together.

Like you, I have fuel in the carb, yet my plug is dry, without even an odor of gas. I need to pull the feeder conduit that connects the carb to the engine, and make sure the throttle plate is not stuck in there (I should have done that before).

I'm wondering whether I have such poor compression that I don't get any suction of gas? And, since I've got spark, I assume that the key is not sheared (but that's an easy check).

Checked and the key was not sheared. I have good spark, yet even with fuel in the plug hole, don't even get a sputter. I'll head to Autozone tomorrow and get a compression gauge to see what's up. Still don't know what happened to the original carb throttle butterfly! It's nowhere to be found.

Last edited by gsnod; 06-13-2019 at 07:44 PM. Reason: Update
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post #17 of 38 Old 06-13-2019, 08:47 PM
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Are both valves operating properly? If the throttle plate screw made its way into the head, it might have damaged the intake valve seat on the way through. So even if both valves are moving, they might not be sealing correctly. Does the cord feel too-easy to pull?

To run, you need fuel, compression, and spark (at the right time). You gave it fuel. And you checked both spark, and the flywheel key (important, since you'd still see a spark if the key was sheared, it would just be at the wrong time). So compression is next on the list.

Does the engine pull air into the carb's intake when spinning? And blow air out the exhaust? This is easier to check if it has electric start. It's a crude way to help ensure that, for instance, you don't have one valve that's never opening, which would prevent actual airflow through the engine.

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post #18 of 38 Old 06-14-2019, 11:03 AM
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I've seen that happen a couple times. The screw puts a little nick in the valve face and the seat causing a valve leak, low compression. A leak down test would have found the leak right away.
If it isn't too bad, you can regrind the valve a little bit and re cut the valve seat and it should seal itself to bring your compression back so it will start and run again.
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post #19 of 38 Old 06-14-2019, 08:04 PM
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Thank you RedOctobyr and ST1100A;

I stopped by Autozone this evening and borrowed a compression tester. Checked it on my own blower to make sure it was working, then hooked it up to the engine in question. Cranking with the electric starter, I got no reading at all, meaning the gauge needle did not move at all. I then put my hand by the muffler and felt strong outward airflow. When holding my hand by the carb choke, I had no suction.

So I'm guessing I have an intake valve issue. Time to pull the head again and pull the intake valve and either replace it or lapp the valves. Might as well lapp both since I'm in there. I also remember seeing the intake valve collar (can't remember the name, but what the valve stem passes through towards the head) looking like it was rising up towards the head. I assume that should be re-seated downward?
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post #20 of 38 Old 06-15-2019, 08:49 PM
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I think that's the valve guide. I don't know if they can just be pressed down again, or if something more in-depth is required. I've heard discussions about that, but you'd have to look into it further.

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