@Ariensboy,
Thank You
Yes, on this machine, and a couple others, I opted for split rims for ease of uninstall and reinstall of the tires. I use tubes with that type rim. I did this years ago and got a good deal locally on the rims, before internet was popular for ordering stuff. I have since purchased one of those mini tire changers from Harbor Freight, which makes a world of difference in changing out these smaller tires on the one piece rims. You can now get those rims online. I also use the real tire lube, as well as the black tire bead seal. I also have the puller/inserter to put the new stems in the solid rims, again, using the tire lube to pull them through the rim. I use the stubby or 90 degree (actually more like a 45 degree) stems, which I get from Amazon, as where most of my parts come from, as it is just much quicker and easier.
I'll take some pictures on assembly of the main body. On these older model setups, many people have a terrible time changing out the friction disc. Ariens has since moved to a real easy design for this on newer models with the different friction shaft setup. On these older units, the friction bracket assembly has a small shaft/rod which runs through the bracket chase as I showed in the previous picture … this shaft is always rust welded inside its bracket chase way. There is a cotter pin holding it in place. This would make it easier for changing that friction disc in the machine, but as I mentioned, most are rust welded in. While I am doing a rebuild on this unit, I took the time to free up that rust welded shaft from its bracket housing with heat, Trizol and very light tapping for shock, (repeat many times), as being very careful not to damage the rod or the housing it slides into. Then I will place NeverSeize on the rod and its housing … although this will probably be the last friction disc this machine will ever see, as they last forever.
Its actually easier in the long run to change these friction discs by taking off the belt guard (2 screw bolts), taking off the belly pan, (2 bolts), taking off the bucket (2 bolts), taking off the engine (4 nuts), unhooking the lever rods, and taking off the handle bars (4 bolts) …and take off the wheels as well. Now you just flip over the main body and have complete access to the drive setup. there is some dismantling, but just take pictures as you go or right it down, in case you can not remember how it gets reassembled. It is really pretty straight forward, but many average home owners are not going to want to tackle this, or are just not mechanically inclined, nor have the ability or space to do it.
I have never seen anyone paint the Predator engine white …. white really shows dirt and all the nicks … black is much more forgiving in that arena.
My 10M6 has the chrome handle bars, and when I get to that rebuild, which will be next, I think I can bring them back to there nice chrome shine. I put a Predator on that unit years ago. Rus great, cant beat it ,... 99.00 for a complete engine ….