Snowblower Forum banner

10M4 Rebuild/refurbish

11K views 74 replies 12 participants last post by  Ariensboy 
#1 · (Edited)
Just started the tear down today, now to pull out my pressure washer for the next step. For those that have not dismantled a unit before, if you don't put the bolts or pins, etc. back where they came, bag and tag everything. Also when in doubt about assembly, take photos. These machines are pretty straight forward. Going to put new tires, new belt as well as a new friction disc and repaint.
 
#5 · (Edited)
@PAUL,

I am dismantling it to clean it up and paint it .. along with friction disc, XTrac tires, belt and anything else I see while apart.

I would have gotten further along today, but when I pulled out my pressure washer and cleaned it up, it was so nice out, I pressure washed the north side of my house .. :)

I'll get into the guts tomorrow and put in a new friction disc, as well as dismantle the bucket for paint.


@cran,

Yeah, I have 2 of these, a 10M4 and a 10M6 with the chrome handlebars and differential. This 4 has a B&S w/electric start , was for the wife years ago …. and I put a Predator 99.00 on the 10M6, ... both run great. These older Ariens were so well built, real quality.

They compliment my 2 924's and my great Yardman 7100-2 and my green Craftsman I just finished rebuilding. Been a busy fall …. :)
 
#7 ·
Thanks, I enjoy these refurbishes...

I use spray for just about everything, usually doing a sand, primer and then the final paint. I use a gray primer, than for the Ariens, I use the Farm paint by Rustoleum, the Gloss Husqvarna Orange.

I am having nice weather, but also can heat my shop. I might try and fashion a portable paint booth from clear plastic for paint dust if the weather does not cooperate.
 
#11 ·
Will you clear coat after you paint. I guess that might be over-kill for a snowblower. Do you sand down to metal or just get the rust off. Also, my wheels are terrible- all rust. I started to use a drill with a wire wheel. Any tricks for the wheels.
 
#8 ·
Several years ago, I picked up an old 6 HP Ariens Sno-Thro (model 10M6 with the chromed handlebars) on Cape Cod for $25. I thought it was a good deal until the first time I used it and the rubber separated from the disc drive wheel!

There were no instructions to be found on the internet for replacing the wheel. None of the members on the snowblower forum I belonged to at that time could offer any advice on how to replace the wheel.

Close inspection of the tractor housing showed a hole positioned opposite one of the transmission shafts and I envisioned a means by which the factory assembled the transmission. 12 hours (and a couple nicks on my hands) later, I had completed replacing the wheel! It's a major pain in the a.. to replace the wheel on a 10Mx machine.

I've had to stitch weld the auger housing near the scraper bar connection area.

Now the auger gear case has an oil leak at the impeller shaft seal and the shaft bushing (if present) is worn . I'm definitely not going to attempt impeller removal on this old machine and the best fix I've learned is to drain the gear oil, replace it with 00 grease and call it good.

Restoring one of these old Sno-Thro machines is a labor of love.
 
#9 · (Edited)
@bad,

Actually, it is a pretty straight forward machine, which is solidly built, and performs very well. I also have a 10M6 with the chrome handle bars. I put the Predator engine on that one … runs great also. Probably tear that down for a repaint also at some point.

On all snow blowers of any age, with a good amount of regular use, will start to split/fracture at the lower auger housing sides by the cutting edge bar area. That is a high stress area, and I have welded four machines already.

You are correct in the side case housing holes, as they are there for easy assembly and dis-assembly. It is a bit of a knack to changing out the disc, and find it much easier done on a dis-assemble, which can be done rather quickly. Pull the engine, separate the chute, pull the wheels and handlebars. Now you can bench the body to change out the disc. Ariens saw the frustration of many owners I'm sure, thus on the newer models it is just done by putting it in the service position and easily changed.

You are doing good on the lube, as most people with leaking seals go that route if not changing the seals.

I'm ready for prep and paint … I'm going to do the frame housing and bucket in orange, but going to do the handle bars and auger blades and impeller in black, like the newer units .. :) … it will match the newer B&S engine on it.
 
#12 ·
@bad,

As mentioned, I use the Rustoleum Farm paint in Huskavarna Orange which I get at Lowes.

I have separated the impeller on many units, its just usually held on by 2 rolled pins … be careful, and use Trizol (weasel ****) or the like, and tap the easily in bot directions, and be careful not to mushroom the end of the pin, and tap them out with a punch slightly smaller diameter than the pin .. when reinstalling, use some NeverSeize.

If you come across a seized impeller, use heat, Trizol, and fashion a puller if need be, repeat …. they usually break free by tapping them in both directions.
 
#13 · (Edited)
@ariens,

No, just the finish gloss orange is fine for me.

On rusted areas, I sand down to metal …. wheels I use my bench grinder which one side is a wire wheel, then finish up by using a drill wire wheel and hand wire brush and sandpaper … prime with gray primer, and then I like to use the Gloss white on the wheels, makes them pop nice against any machine.

This rim was so rusted before I started, inside and out.

Since this photo, I took out that straight valve, and put in a 90 degree (actually more like 45)
 
#14 · (Edited)
Got the bucket primed, had to stop during prep and weld the lower right and left corners, a known issue cracking there on buckets, that is a high stress point. Manufacturers should tack a 90 degree hardened helper plate in that area.

Trying to get as much painting done today, supposed to rain tomorrow, then ill do the guts for the friction disc replacement.
 
#17 · (Edited)
That's good looking restoration work. I can never seem to get too enthused about painting a machine after the mechanical work is done. :blowerhug:

I note your Sno-Thro model has a discharge chute which accommodated a drive sprocket instead of the worm gear used on next model year Sno-Thro. The drive sprocket is able to more quickly change the chute direction.

I had to MIG weld the same locations on my 10M6. The scraper bar probably needs to be welded too.

Got the bucket primed, had to stop during prep and weld the lower right and left corners, a known issue cracking there on buckets, that is a high stress point. Manufacturers should tack a 90 degree hardened helper plate in that area.
 
#18 ·
@bad,

This 10M4 was looking so shabby next to my other machines, I decided on a tear down, just to make it look better …. :)

Yes, the drive sprocket assembly for the chute is a great feature for sure. Nice smooth and quick operation.

I noticed on another thread, someone picked up a new Ariens, and I noticed now they wrap the scrapper bar up the sides of the bucket and bolt it. Ariens must have been aware for sure about that area being a problem on the buckets. This new scrapper bar relieves a lot of the stress off the bucket at that area now.

I will be doing the friction disc tomorrow, as well as more paint prep, if I don't do leaves.
 
#24 · (Edited)
I was able to get it all painted today, nice weather … I had to stop and free up the inner rod on the friction slide bracket, and also put some weld in the area on the end where it wore against the frame, then ground it down so it slides in and out at both ends of the bracket. The new XTrac tires were just delivered.

I have a couple busy days coming up, so may not get to assembly to later in the week.
 
  • Like
Reactions: tabora
#25 ·
That's going to look fantastic when it's all reassembled. Personally, I like the "Creamsicle" look of the old Sno-Thro models with their orange frames and white engines. Given that your original engine is no longer present, use of a black color on some parts will give it a unique appearance that I'm looking forward to seeing.
 
#26 ·
Yeah, on this unit, I'm putting the augers and handle bars black to match the newer black engine .... I do keep the wheels a gloss white on all my orange Ariens, as well as my red older Yardman , makes the tires really stand out nice. On my green Craftsman, I repainted the wheels the same gray that came on it.
 
#27 ·
That's looking good!

Are the wheels split? ( 4 pieces ) also, I see rods hanging. Are you painting the rods black, silver?

Can you take pictures of the tractor as you assemble trans. With any heads up ( tips, tricks ) for us.

Have you ever seen anyone paint the predator engine white?

Thanks!
 
#28 ·
@Ariensboy,

Thank You

Yes, on this machine, and a couple others, I opted for split rims for ease of uninstall and reinstall of the tires. I use tubes with that type rim. I did this years ago and got a good deal locally on the rims, before internet was popular for ordering stuff. I have since purchased one of those mini tire changers from Harbor Freight, which makes a world of difference in changing out these smaller tires on the one piece rims. You can now get those rims online. I also use the real tire lube, as well as the black tire bead seal. I also have the puller/inserter to put the new stems in the solid rims, again, using the tire lube to pull them through the rim. I use the stubby or 90 degree (actually more like a 45 degree) stems, which I get from Amazon, as where most of my parts come from, as it is just much quicker and easier.

I'll take some pictures on assembly of the main body. On these older model setups, many people have a terrible time changing out the friction disc. Ariens has since moved to a real easy design for this on newer models with the different friction shaft setup. On these older units, the friction bracket assembly has a small shaft/rod which runs through the bracket chase as I showed in the previous picture … this shaft is always rust welded inside its bracket chase way. There is a cotter pin holding it in place. This would make it easier for changing that friction disc in the machine, but as I mentioned, most are rust welded in. While I am doing a rebuild on this unit, I took the time to free up that rust welded shaft from its bracket housing with heat, Trizol and very light tapping for shock, (repeat many times), as being very careful not to damage the rod or the housing it slides into. Then I will place NeverSeize on the rod and its housing … although this will probably be the last friction disc this machine will ever see, as they last forever. :)

Its actually easier in the long run to change these friction discs by taking off the belt guard (2 screw bolts), taking off the belly pan, (2 bolts), taking off the bucket (2 bolts), taking off the engine (4 nuts), unhooking the lever rods, and taking off the handle bars (4 bolts) …and take off the wheels as well. Now you just flip over the main body and have complete access to the drive setup. there is some dismantling, but just take pictures as you go or right it down, in case you can not remember how it gets reassembled. It is really pretty straight forward, but many average home owners are not going to want to tackle this, or are just not mechanically inclined, nor have the ability or space to do it.

I have never seen anyone paint the Predator engine white …. white really shows dirt and all the nicks … black is much more forgiving in that arena.

My 10M6 has the chrome handle bars, and when I get to that rebuild, which will be next, I think I can bring them back to there nice chrome shine. I put a Predator on that unit years ago. Rus great, cant beat it ,... 99.00 for a complete engine ….
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top