Troy-Bilt/MTD not start - gas in the oil - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
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post #1 of 20 Old 12-07-2019, 06:37 PM Thread Starter
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Unhappy Troy-Bilt/MTD not start - gas in the oil

Hello all.
I have a Troy-Bilt Storm 2410 built in 2009. Model 31AM62N2766. MTD engine.
Last year it started stalling when under load (actually throwing snow). Mechanic that sold it to me said the plug was fouled and put a new one in. Still had the same problem, and he said best to put a in new carb in the fall (it's non-adjustable).

Fast forward to this fall, I got inspired and the mechanic retired, so I proceeded to put in a new carb. An expensive one from MTD. That was in September and I thought I'd be ready to go. But the 1st time out it was still stalling out when throwing snow, and sometimes just when I engaged the auger. It still started with one pull of the rope just like new. Just had the problem under load.


So you know, I'm slightly mechanically inclined, but this is the 1st snowblower I've worked on so I've been learning as i go.
  • Here's what I've done since:
  • Adjusted valve lash - triple checked to make sure it's good
  • Checked compression - it's 62. Spec is 55-80
  • Checked the breather lines - I think they're ok but don't know about any PCV valve
    • It has spark

Sadly, it usually won't start at all now. It might sputter and eventually go, but even then it will stall suddenly after a few minutes.
I noticed the plug was wet with gas and the oil has gas in it. Can smell it at the fill tube, the level's suddenly high and it's noticeably thin consistency.

That brings me to the forum today. Wondering if there was something I needed to do with the new carb? I don't know what to do next. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

Last edited by shilobetto; 12-08-2019 at 09:02 AM.
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post #2 of 20 Old 12-07-2019, 06:44 PM
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Do not run that engine … gas is getting into the oil, and that is never good … I would assume maybe with the bad carb it was seeping in all summer ….
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post #3 of 20 Old 12-07-2019, 06:46 PM
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gas in the oil usually means the float or needle has stuck allowing fuel to flow freely into the engine. you will likely need a new spark plug and an oil change but you may want to figure out which carb caused the issue. do you have the original carb? i would wonder if the main jet in the original carb may have been different than the other 2.

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post #4 of 20 Old 12-08-2019, 09:10 AM Thread Starter
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Yes I have the original carb. (I edited my post to clarify that I only replaced the carb once. )
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post #5 of 20 Old 12-10-2019, 09:43 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crazzywolfie View Post
gas in the oil usually means the float or needle has stuck allowing fuel to flow freely into the engine. you will likely need a new spark plug and an oil change but you may want to figure out which carb caused the issue. do you have the original carb? i would wonder if the main jet in the original carb may have been different than the other 2.
It has to be the new carb since I changed the oil after I put the new one in. It is the right carb for the engine; the same as the original.
I ran it out of gas at the end of last season so it couldn't have seeped in over the summer. Only use fresh premium, no ethanol.

Yesterday I checked the new carb float and it looked fine and moved easily. I didn't take anything apart to look at the jets.
I then emptied the tank and checked the fuel line and filter for any loose material and changed the oil.

Still no start.

Could this indicate a problem with the piston rings? It went from lack of power last winter, to stalling and hard to start this year, to won't run at all now along with the gas in the oil. It has never burned or lost oil that I noticed.

Last edited by shilobetto; 12-10-2019 at 09:46 AM. Reason: Added last sentence
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post #6 of 20 Old 12-10-2019, 10:27 AM
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It sounds like it's time for a compression test. If you don't have a gauge, Autozone, Advance Auto, etc have loaners. You can test for cracked or broken rings, burned valves and excessive carbon build-up.

Was the engine exhaust smoking the last time it ran?

I see your earlier post where you checked the compression. Did you do the bleed down test? Did you notice any gauge flutter?

Last edited by vstorm; 12-10-2019 at 11:50 AM.
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post #7 of 20 Old 12-10-2019, 11:30 AM
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Always check the oil before attempting to start the machine folks.
.

1989 John Deere 1032
1979 Toro 5/24 38040 (now a 6.5)
1978 Ariens S16H Tractor & Plow
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post #8 of 20 Old 12-10-2019, 11:44 AM
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so i would guess the new carb either has the float or needle sticking or not sealing if changed the oil when you changed the carb. did you replace the plug? have you checked the valve lash? would maybe try this first. if the carb flooded the engine then there is a very good chance the plug is bad. i don't know why but usually when you soak a plug in gasoline they seem to go bad. the rings are likely fine. gas will always seep past the rings and into the crankcase if given enough time. i had to deal with a similar issue with my brother in laws snowblower a year or 2 ago. a carb clean and 2 oil changes late all was good. if this doesn't solve it then i would move onto checking for a broken flywheel key.

arien 520 snow blower 6.5hp swap
yardworks 31AH6WKF515
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post #9 of 20 Old 12-10-2019, 11:55 AM
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He adjusted the valve lash, replaced the fuel, oil, plug, carb and did a compression check. The machine has a spark so that should indicate that the flywheel is turning. Fuel will quickly seep into the crankcase if there is a cracked or broken ring and repeated attempts to start the engine will result in the fuel being forced into the crankcase past the piston as it rises on the compression stroke. The engine may not smoke all that much and the compression will still appear to be good but will fail a timed leak-down test. It may be time for a thorough compression test unless that has already been done.

Last edited by vstorm; 12-10-2019 at 12:04 PM.
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post #10 of 20 Old 12-10-2019, 12:19 PM
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i missed that part but he changed the oil when he changed the carb so the new carb still likely flooded out the plug that is in it so it would likely be a good idea to replace it before looking at the harder to fix things. a flywheel can turn and make spark even with a broken flywheel key.

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