Tecumseh BTDC timing dimension. - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
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post #1 of 37 Old 12-19-2019, 06:15 PM Thread Starter
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Tecumseh BTDC timing dimension.

Have a circa 1978 Tecumseh HSK70 Snow King that's been in the family since new.
Replacing the points, condensor, and coil.

My old circa 1980 Tecumseh engine repair manual says to set the piston at .050" btdc.
The 1996 Tecumseh L head manual (linked on the site) says to set it at .080" btdc.

Last time I changed the points I only had the older manual to refer to and used the 050 btdc setting and it seemed to run well. While on the discussion is a larger btdc setting more advanced or retarded timing . I want to say advanced.
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post #2 of 37 Old 12-19-2019, 07:40 PM
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My 2 old books (mid 80's) show .080 BTDC advanced.


My oldest book (1973) shows .090 to .100 for all medium frame engines.


Or you can read this.


http://www.smallenginesuppliers.com/...nformation.pdf

Last edited by scrappy; 12-19-2019 at 08:17 PM.
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post #3 of 37 Old 12-19-2019, 08:29 PM
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are you sure is a Snow King, I thought those were all solid state ignition. Anyways, do you have the full engine model number off of the main shroud? The L-head engine handbook has 0.080 and 0.090 for various 7 and 8hp points ignition engines.

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post #4 of 37 Old 12-19-2019, 08:51 PM Thread Starter
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Definitely a Snow King, still have the original Tec. owners manual.
H70-130210D Serial No. 8195.
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post #5 of 37 Old 12-19-2019, 08:52 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scrappy View Post
My 2 old books (mid 80's) show .080 BTDC advanced.


My oldest book (1973) shows .090 to .100 for all medium frame engines.


Or you can read this.


http://www.smallenginesuppliers.com/...nformation.pdf
I think mine is a small frame.
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post #6 of 37 Old 12-19-2019, 09:04 PM
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the Snow King engines start with "HSK -xxx". The H70 engines show 0.080" and 0.09" BTDC, dependent on bore size. this info from the Tecumseh Technicians Handbook for 3 to 11hp 4 cycle L-Head engines. The timing specs are on p95 and p96 for the H70.

also:

V - Vertical Shaft
LAV - Lightweight Aluminum Vertical
VM - Vertical Medium Frame
TVM - Tecumseh Vertical (Medium Frame)
VH - Vertical Heavy Duty (Cast Iron)
TVS - Tecumseh Vertical Styled
TNT - Toro Ní Tecumseh
ECV - Exclusive Craftsman Vertical
TVXL - Tecumseh Vertical Extra Life
LEV - Low Emissions Vertical
H - Horizontal Shaft
HS - Horizontal Small Frame
HM - Horizontal Medium Frame
HHM - Horizontal Heavy Duty (Cast Iron) Medium Frame
HH - Horizontal Heavy Duty (Cast Iron)
ECH - Exclusive Craftsman Horizontal
HSK - Horizontal Snow King


.

Paul
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1980 Toro 421, 1995 Craftsman 524
1997 Toro CCR 2500 & 1994 Toro CCR Powerlite
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post #7 of 37 Old 12-19-2019, 10:07 PM
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I set both my H70 (1980) and H50 (1970) to 0.080" and both start and run beautifully (per L-head service manual).


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post #8 of 37 Old 12-20-2019, 12:37 AM
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If it were me, I would throw the points and condenser in the garbage and put the solid state ignition module in the place of the points and condensor unless you are trying to keep it original.
You can get the ignition module kits for less money than the points cost. They are very easy to install, just disconnect the wire from the points and hook it to the wire to the module and hook up a ground wire to the module, then mount the module, and its done.
You can leave the old points in the engine, they do not have to be removed. Once the module is hooked up you no longer have to worry about adjusting and replacing points and condensers again, which have to be serviced fairly frequently.
A good module kit will last a long time and comes with the necessary wiring adapters and wiring plugs. They are available from companies like Sten's and can be found on EBay for a good price.
And one of the nice things with the module kit is you do not have to worry about trying to set the timing with it like you do with the point set-up.
With points, you have to get the timing set to break the point gap or to make it set to fire when the coil reaches its maximum saturation point so it can produce a strong enough spark, the module does that automatically, and no more worries about point gap being out of adjustment, or burned, pitted, bad points and bad condenser.

Last edited by ST1100A; 12-20-2019 at 01:28 AM.
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post #9 of 37 Old 12-20-2019, 03:03 AM
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agree with st, change the coil loose the points and never worry again,
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post #10 of 37 Old 12-20-2019, 04:58 AM
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If you use the module kit, you just use the original coil and don't have to change it. The kit works with Tecumseh, Briggs and Kohler point type ignition, but you can also change the coil over to the solid state type coil, then you don't need the module kit.
Certain Briggs engines, you had to change the flywheel to use the solid state pointless ignition coils, that was on the cast iron engines, but you could just use the module kit and wire it to the point wire from the coil and leave the flywheel alone and use the original coil.
Other engines you could get the new style coil and just change it. The module kit cost less money and was easy to install.
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